Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello there peoples,

This has been a lot longer coming than I would have liked, but I'm just about ready to invest in a frontmount for my Series II R33 GTS-T. Of course if I just wanted a cheap Chinese kit I would have had one ages ago, but that's not my style.

I'm after the best quality, best performing & best looking intercooler kit I can buy & so far that has lead me to the Plazmaman Kits. While I really like the quality & the appearance of these kits, I am yet to find any opinions on how well they perform. Doing a search on here surprisingly turned up very little apart from the fact they are meant to fit really well.

The pipework is clearly a good design so I have no issues as far as the layout of it is concerned. I have considered going for the larger kit, which has a much bigger 680x340 (as opposed to a 600x300) core, but have reservations as to if this is practical for a street car as far as ground clearance is concerned. I do have long term ambitions of making the car quite a bit more powerful (at least 300 RWKW), but the larger core may be overkill anyway.

I have looked at the Blitz ARE & ARC kits that have been recommended in other threads & while they're probably up to the job the Plazaman Kits have the edge presentation wise. They make some pretty bold claims on their website, so I would just really like to know that they live up to the hype.

All opinions welcome, cheers

Jared

Edited by J_Red33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213098-plazmaman-intercooler-kits/
Share on other sites

Honestly a cheap kit will do the same job as a jap brand or plazaman kit.

The only difference is the quality in there pipe works and silicon clamps.

If you dont want a cheap kit, then get your self a nice ARC, HKS or Blitz kit.

No experiences with plazaman kits, but i think the price is way to high.

I know plenty of people with cheap kits with excess of 260kw and it handles fine.

Edited by siddr20

I disagree that a cheap kit is the same as a Jap brand or plazmaman kit.

I recently purchased a Plazmaman piping kit for our Project car and was very happy with their seamless aluminium mandrel bent pipes.

At the end of the day its about cooling efficiency with no pressure drop and some do it better than others. Not to mention removing as many restrictions from the system as possible.

The reason you pay more money is not just the label, but the R&D that goes into different set-ups.

For reference I use a GReddy core and Plazmaman piping. I have no affiliations with either company, only personal preference.

the internal design of the cores years ago was quite different between the cheap cores and the higher quality cores.

at this point whether the cheap cores have decent internal fin designs??

practically speaking the cheap cores seem to deliver great results at the price.

in terms of whether they work the same there is enough evidence (hidden in the forum somewhere) that the name brand japanese and plazmaman kits show less static pressure drop and have some better quality piping options particularly the plazmaman "gibson" style cross over replacement pipe. the internal design of the plazmaman cores are supposed to be pretty good and should provide excellent heat dissipation much like the more expensive japanese cores. the trust V spec has an inferior internal design compared to their R spec cores for example.

Honestly a cheap kit will do the same job as a jap brand or plazaman kit.

people who say this are usally are in the lower bracket of power bands, once u start pushing the limits of a factory/aftermarket turbo....ull see the problems.

which is fine because a cheap cooler kit will proberly give them more then wat they want. but if ur moving to the next step i highly HIGHLY recommend a properly researched/contructed kit. eg BLITZ/HKS/ARC

i bought one of of the Just Jap Cooling pro kits for about 300bux wen it was on special, i thought awsome a new cooler for 300bux.

i really regret it now as the quality is just lame, planing to eventually get a HKS or a ARC cooler.

you get wat u pay for, as they say.

i probelry woudlnt bother as much with plazmaman, they are proberly great but i think they are proberly a bit $$$ compared to something like a Blitz/HKS/ARC cooler which are at the top of its class. id stick with those since they are 100% bolt ons.

just curious what are your goals with the car?

Edited by R34NRG

^^^^Thats probably why it was on special...

Mates WRX HVDFLU pulls consistent 450kw on a hybrid cooler...n i dont think thats in the lower bracket of the power bands...

personally got a just jap cooler on mine, works fine no problems, never had a cooler hose blow off...so i dunno, only reason id go for a Jap cooler was for names sake ie: HKS sounds better than Just Jap cooler ya kno?

As stated previously my long term goal is at least 300 RWKW.

As far as the cheap kits go I won't touch one. Anything that requires excess chopping (which it seems most cheap kits in my research need) & has questionable quality of fitment, appearance & performance is just not going to cut it. Kits like Blitz, HKS, ARC & ARE are others I am considering, but nothing less end of story. I like my quality & I'm willing to pay for it. Call that arrogant if you will, but my ride is pretty clean so I want to keep it that way.

The main reasons I like the Plazmaman are the pipework design & presentation. So I'm really just questioning if they have the performance to match. If I can get that confirmed I will be getting one.

Edited by J_Red33

An example of changing from 'good' china core to ARE of the same size to get an extra 90rwhp, same car same dyno.

The end tanks on the china cores are basic to crap in design and quality.

Better than stock? yes. Support high power? yes Do a better job than ARC/ARE/Blitz? NO.

So I'm really just questioning if they have the performance to match. If I can get that confirmed I will be getting one.

JP@UAS 300zx (Boosted Zed) might be the confirmation you are looking for. big hp car.

Edited by wolverine

Just installing a tube and fine ARE cooler at the moment. Chose ARE mainly because of the end tank designs which are said distribute more evenly through the cooler. I also had mine spec'd with a venturi plate on the intake side. This also helps airflow into the cooler tubes as tube and fin cores have raised tubes by design.

Hey Jared

i run a top of the range ASE kit. (Auto Sport Engineering) behind castle plaza.

maybe call in there and have a look at the kits for yourself and see what you think.

im making around the 350kw mark with a exposed pod and it works very well.

ping below 20 even when its 40 degrees.

Hey Jared,

Are you going for the complete kit with the plenum, piping and front mount? :D

I am considering this kit, but don't have enough peso's for that one yet. Also unsure about getting the full kit due to the height of the core (340mm as opposed to the regular 300mm most cross-flow frontmounts use).

If it hangs too low I won't get it up the driveway. We had to ad some plates at the bottom of the drive because my front bar was missing by only a couple of mm just crawling (stock ride height & front bar).

Also I could purchase the plenum in the future once I've done several other performance mods.

JP@UAS 300zx (Boosted Zed) might be the confirmation you are looking for. big hp car.

Thanks for the info. I'll look into this further

Hey Jared

i run a top of the range ASE kit. (Auto Sport Engineering) behind castle plaza.

maybe call in there and have a look at the kits for yourself and see what you think.

im making around the 350kw mark with a exposed pod and it works very well.

ping below 20 even when its 40 degrees.

Yeah I know your car makes big power, didn't quite get to the dyno day in time to see yours in action dammit!

I guess it's just a matter of how far ASE would be willing to go as well. Was already looking to them for a custom catch tank, but thought their design for the frontmount wasn't anything special, only looked online though.

Wouldn't mind having a squizz under the bonnet of yours actually. I know you don't live far from me :laugh:

Will check them out.

Appreciate all the responses so far.

Cheers

^^^^Thats probably why it was on special...

Mates WRX HVDFLU pulls consistent 450kw on a hybrid cooler...n i dont think thats in the lower bracket of the power bands...

personally got a just jap cooler on mine, works fine no problems, never had a cooler hose blow off...so i dunno, only reason id go for a Jap cooler was for names sake ie: HKS sounds better than Just Jap cooler ya kno?

but it does blow cooler piping off.

I had a hks on mine, caught a speed hump and ripped the bottom out of it, had a cheapie sitting around from years ago that i bought for an rx7 project and never used so i put that on, the old hks use to easly hit .50 bar and when hitting boost hard use to go to .63, now with the new no name cooler on it only just gets to .45 without booting it hard and when driven hard only makes .55.

from this experience i my self KNOW that the no name brands are not as good as the name brands, and in this scenario im only running stock boost since the turbo is shagged, how much more will it cost me when the boost is turned up.

do the plazmaman piping kits come with BOV recirc pipe? also do they come with the BOV adapter welded on?

They do require an aftermarket BOV, but it can easily be made plumb back. I'm sure if you told them you wanted it plumb back they could make the required pipe you need as the vehicles they show their kits on have plumback BOV's fitted with hard pipes.

  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...