Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was just down at my local Supercheap to grab a six pack of plugs for my girl and apart from them not having any guide on Imports and the Bosch site on the net being useless, I am lost.

I have NGK Iridium "BCPR6EIX-11" in at the moment but I want to get the new Bosch Fusion plugs.

I think I need F1-6 but I am unsure especially sine they are $129 for the six.

It is for an RB25DET out of an R33.

Cheers guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213645-what-spark-plugs-for-rb25det/
Share on other sites

I run NGK BCPR6ES in RB25's gaped at 0.8 mm

NGK BCPR6ES come in 1.1 mm gap (BCPR6ES – 11) and in 0.8 mm gap (BCPR6ES – 8)

Standard boost = BCPR6ES – 11

12 psi = BCPR6ES – 8

Up to 19 psi = BCPR7ES – 8

Over 19 psi = BCPR7ES – 6

^ Hope this helps

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
  • 4 weeks later...

I think the wrong plugs have rooted my coil packs.

I changed the plugs and not two weeks later I need two new coil packs.

I actually have an RB25det Neo motor and I am wondering what plugs to put in it?

I have Splitfire coil packs coming in a week and I will be running 10Psi.

Cheers,

Jarrod

yo siddr20....

use bkr6eya-11 there still $3 a plug...

or bcp6rya-11 if u can get those ones..

ther anti-fouling plugs..lol

hence the "ya"!!!

:nyaanyaa:

anyone try using denso plugs?????

which is the standard plugs in Toyota..

i've used iridiums.. bkr6eya-ix

didnt do much of difference..just cost more...

ur better off just buying standard plugs...

run the biggest gap you can get away with. if the spark breaks down (misfiring), you know you need to gap them lower. so 1.1mm is great if you have no issues. if not go down to 0.8mm. it all depends on how well your coilpacks work.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

the splitfires i recieved in mail today say it is essential to replace plugs with one colder heat range if you have any type of mod besides splitfires(pods,exhaust,chips etc) and should be resistor types,so of the plugs mentioned in this thread,which would be more suitable?

the splitfires i recieved in mail today say it is essential to replace plugs with one colder heat range if you have any type of mod besides splitfires(pods,exhaust,chips etc) and should be resistor types,so of the plugs mentioned in this thread,which would be more suitable?

BCPR7ES – 8 or 11

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 years later...
  • 9 months later...

Dig dig dig..

Sorry guys thought id dig instead of starting whole new thread.

I am now confused on what plug to use on my stock R33 RB25DET. It has a aftermarket exhaust (3inch i think) Pod, getting a BOV installed and thats it. Boost controller and a FMIC intercooler will be installed and running on 11 or 12psi with standard turbo.

Which one would be best for daily driving if i gap them to .08

BCPR6ES

BCPR7ES

bkr6eya-11

Or if anyone can recommend a good plug thats not $20 a plug that will be great. Cheers

Dig dig dig..

Sorry guys thought id dig instead of starting whole new thread.

I am now confused on what plug to use on my stock R33 RB25DET. It has a aftermarket exhaust (3inch i think) Pod, getting a BOV installed and thats it. Boost controller and a FMIC intercooler will be installed and running on 11 or 12psi with standard turbo.

Which one would be best for daily driving if i gap them to .08

BCPR6ES

BCPR7ES

bkr6eya-11

Or if anyone can recommend a good plug thats not $20 a plug that will be great. Cheers

you already have a blow of valve. Please don't install a different one. ○_○ ......Do you understand the difference of the plugs? The higher the number the colder the plug. I don't see a reason why you would need a cooler plug.

Edited by superben

BCPR6ES (they should be 0.8mm gapped). If the shop doesn't have it, go somewhere else. If you have a feeler gauge, you can gap them down (stores usually stock BCPR6ES-11, the 1.1mm gapped ones). Run 1.1mm gap (factory) if you have new coilpacks.

Oh and Ben yeah I knew it was a different heat rating but when I was doing some searching there was a thread that people were telling a guy to buy the 7s then I came in this thread and its all different plugs so that's why I got a little confused on what to use

Ben I have NGK BCPR6ES-11 plugs so its the 1.1mm gap as you know :) I will re gap them to .80mm.

Nizmo so are you saying that I should leave the 1.1mm gap if I'm running factory coils?

If you can run the 1.1mm gap without it missing then do it. The bigger gap the better. People only reduce the gap when they are running large boost or have old, weak coils that can't provide a strong enough spark

That's what I thought.. I will try the 1.1mm gap an see how I go. It only has 140k on the engine so coils might be fine.

Is 1.1mm and 0.8mm the only 2 gaps I can run or should I try lower the gap in 0.1mm increments like as in if 1.1mm doesn't work maybe try 1mm then 0.9 then 0.8 or is that pointless? I'm new to the whole boost scene so excuse my lack of knowledge haha appreciate everyone's help :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the territory of the "Stage 1/2/3 Golf GTI/R" or otherwise off the shelf tune with (relative to before) minor mods. It's easier now. Downpipe and Tune and boom, big increases. Stage 1 OEM+ is where it's at. This is where the niche evolved into and it's really easy to see why. It's rare to even NEED to consider changing turbos or going to aftermarket ECU's or building bottom ends for more power. Stage 1-2-3 will get you a LONG WAY. Civic Type R turbo GR Yaris/Corolla Anything with B58 (MKV Supra/x40i) Anything BMW in General Anything Audi in General Any turbo AMG RenaultSport Turbo offerings Korean Elantra N/I30N Ecoboost Mustangs Focus RS? List goes on. I would argue in the future it won't even need to go on... M3P is pretty rapid out of the box...
    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
×
×
  • Create New...