Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know of a replacement turbo that can be used on the VQ25DET engine for a streight swap?

Has Anyone had the standard turbo re-sealed or hi-flowed and by whome and how much ?

Any info would be appreciated

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

wouldnt you run something similar to what you would on an RB25? a GT2860RS or something? i gots no idea what flange they use on a VQ25 tho.

From what I have found out they are a real ugly looking thing and not similar to the RD25's, There is a workshop in NSW that can modify the turbo and hi-flow it but they can not build a replacement due to the standard configuration and installation issues, I looks pretty tight and hard to remove.

the turbo is an ugly looking thing? or the engine?

im sure its do-able. a highflow will still give you good power gains with the right supporting mods. more boost, bigger intercooler, better exhaust, better filter etc.

Anything iss possible with the right money but depends on how far you want to go. I dont have much more advice being that im unfamiliar with the car. However, do a search for m35+turbo, as i KNOW one has been pulled out of a car here before, and pics were posted up.

Bobbeh

I read somewhere a turbo replacement requires engine out. I saw one method of removing the entire sub-frame and lifting the chassis up, leaving just the engine and front drivetrain behind.

Have a read of this thread;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/M3...cs-t192998.html

This may help with the turbo.

What has happened to your current turbo?

Are you aware that be replaceing the exhaust the boost goes from about 0.8bar to 1.0 bar. I think that is the right number or about 14psi. So yu gain a lot of power just with a new better flowing exhaust.

Cheers

Andy

Have a read of this thread;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/M3...cs-t192998.html

This may help with the turbo.

What has happened to your current turbo?

Are you aware that be replaceing the exhaust the boost goes from about 0.8bar to 1.0 bar. I think that is the right number or about 14psi. So yu gain a lot of power just with a new better flowing exhaust.

Cheers

Andy

i dont know what is wrong but in to last couple of days i have been getting alot of white oily smoke when i decelerate or sit at the lights. the turbo is not noisy and spools up as usual but i think it may be the exhaust housing seal.

i am going to check it out tomorrow if i get time.

the motor has only done 60k and there was no oily residue on the inlet pipe or the cooler so im a little unsure what is wrong, but the smoke is a little worring.

I read somewhere a turbo replacement requires engine out. I saw one method of removing the entire sub-frame and lifting the chassis up, leaving just the engine and front drivetrain behind.

i dont want to be dropping the engine out just to check out the turbo, i will give it my best try to get it out without doing that.

i dont want to be dropping the engine out just to check out the turbo, i will give it my best try to get it out without doing that.

When I did my exhaust system I got to have a good look at the removal of the Turbo while still on the car...it is possible with the right tools. I have also been quoted in Sydney for a turbo service and it's approx $1,450 for high flow and new impellers(steel). From what I have been told there is no use in making it ballbearing.

P.S. I get some smoke on cold start up but then it goes as soon as the car gets warm(always get up to operating temp before a thrash). Might also mention that these cars need to be running premium unleaded. In Japan I think you might find that our maximum octane is there minimum.

P.S.S. Very strange for the turbo to go at this early. I am running 15PSI(have been doing so for about 15,000kms) on the standard turbo and have no problems

the motor has only done 60k and there was no oily residue on the inlet pipe or the cooler so im a little unsure what is wrong, but the smoke is a little worring.

Hmm I don't get smoke (except when cold) but have a fairly noisy spool and fair amount of oil in all the inlet pipes (had them all off to replace exhaust gasket), does this mean anything bad?

When I did my exhaust system I got to have a good look at the removal of the Turbo while still on the car...it is possible with the right tools. I have also been quoted in Sydney for a turbo service and it's approx $1,450 for high flow and new impellers(steel). From what I have been told there is no use in making it ballbearing.

P.S. I get some smoke on cold start up but then it goes as soon as the car gets warm(always get up to operating temp before a thrash). Might also mention that these cars need to be running premium unleaded. In Japan I think you might find that our maximum octane is there minimum.

P.S.S. Very strange for the turbo to go at this early. I am running 15PSI(have been doing so for about 15,000kms) on the standard turbo and have no problems

I wasnt getting any smoke at start up just after the car was warm

With running higher boost do you have a piggyback computer for the fuel ?

Just an update on the progress of the somokey M35.

Driving home from work I saw my old friend the smoke once the car was warm, realising that I was probably up for a little mor cash I decided to give her a little punishment for letting me down. Got home parked the car and there didnt seem to be any smoke. Anyway I let it cool down as I wanted to check out a few things.

I pulled off the exhaust dump housing off and everything looked ok in there, Some carbon but no oil or anything (not that you probably could see anything anyway) but there was was no shaft play so I put it back together. I also checked the compressor side pipe and again no oil. I checked the turbo drain and egr valve all good. I came to the conclusion that the turbo was actually ok as power was strong and there was no strange noises or anything.

What I did do was check my engine oil level and it was low (Below the low mark on the dipstick) Thre was about 1.6L of oild missing.

I replaced the oil and filter. There hasnt been any smoke since

I have no idea what caused my problem but it seems fine at the moment. I will monitor my oild comsumption over the next few weeks and see how it goes.

  • 2 months later...

Well, The problem with the smoke is all solved. It had nothing to do with the turbo, compression or valve stem seals. It was caused by a faulty PCV valve. Under boost the valve would not seal and therefore pressurise the crankcase and stop the turbo from draining properly and forcing oil out throught the seal into the hosing.

:D

I was also wondering why boost was dropping off at higher RPM's

  • 9 months later...
Nice work. From what I can see almost every M34 owner has problems with boost dropping off at high rpm.

It's designed for low down torque.....not top end.....most turbo's drop some boost by the time they reach redline.

P.S. Highflow fixes the problem.

P.S.S. It also an M35 not 34.

Edited by Jetwreck
P.S. Highflow fixes the problem.

Yeah, one of these days I will get to it!

Do you recommend the workshop that highflowed your turbo?

And just to confirm, did they merely replace your internals or did you go for a new turbo housing?

I would like to keep the turbo externals and just replace the insides.

I would like to keep the turbo externals and just replace the insides.

That is what happened with mine.

I think that Jetwreck and Danwatt's turbos are slightly shorter (if my poor memory serves me correctly).

That is what happened with mine.

I think that Jetwreck and Danwatt's turbos are slightly shorter (if my poor memory serves me correctly).

yea thats right, you end up with a shorter turbo (18mm) when you go for the ball bearing garrett cores, the old school bush bearing T3's dont change the turbo by much.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
×
×
  • Create New...