Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, its about my R34 headlights

i got this yellowish mark inside my headlight, well i dont quite know how to explain it but you guys probably know anyway the good old mark in old car headlight..

question is simple how to get rid off it?? :P

I want it to be nice clear and shiny, i asked a guy who sells HIDs but he said if he opened it up, polish it, and close it again, it wouldnt be perfect and when rain comes, some water vapour will get inside and shit and leaves water marks..

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/215569-cleaning-headlights/
Share on other sites

This has been covered many times before mate. Next time do a search, but you can just use and polish to remove the yellow cover depending on how bad it is. If something like Maguires Scratch X doesn't work then you'll have to open up the head light. To do that, you'll need to put the headlight in your oven to melt the glue, open, clean, etc.

The reason the HID guy told you it won't be perfect is because most people don't buy new seals, they just re-heat and stick the cover back on. If you got new glue to seal it up, it should be like new.

  • 2 weeks later...

just use some cut and polish . kitten works well , then use something smoother . buff it well with heaps of elbow grease. i sanded my headlights right back from 400 gritt all the way to 2000 gritt . they turned out un believable. i also did it to a friends car , and the sprayed his headlights with clear gloss and they havent got yellow ever since. perfection

:D:(:) guys, c-red actually polished my headlights when i did my 10k service, he uses some kind of japanese plastic cleaner... :D GO JAPANESE!!

works excellent, was very happy, and the guy said u can get similar plastic cleaner from super cheap auto, so im gonna do that the next time its need a clean!!

thx for the reply anyway, prob solved :D

eyy buddy their is this stuff that looks like cut and polish, but you just rub it on the headlights and it gets rid of all that shit... my mate showed me it i can get you the name of it if you like. but it does a bloody good job lol

Permatex, Headlight restoration kit. This involves wet sanding your lights with a fine wet dry in 3 stages. then using the plastic polish supplied in the kit to finish it off. 30 bucks a kit does 2 lights easily. I have used it and it goes awesome.

If you have mad yellow lights you just sand more. you see it all come off in the water you sand with. then the polish smooths the scratches and your lenses are clear again.

I know Autobarn stock this. But i suppose anyone who stocks permatex can too!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...