Jump to content
SAU Community

My First Dyno

gazal

By gazal,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

gazal Collaborator

gazal

Posted
Posted

I know there's faster cars out their but i'm getting there. Recently install a greddy FMIC and Blitz sbc i-color boost controller. Thanks to RE custom, what is the max KW i can get out of a stock turbo and ecu? and what steps do you guys think i should do next?

dyno1.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219020-my-first-dyno/
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

without spending any $ instantly read the dual stage boost hack in the tutorial section

this will make the car run 9psi from memory all the time, the auto runs less boost than the manual, so your missing some power too

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219020-my-first-dyno/#findComment-3862871
Share on other sites
jenkies Mentor

jenkies

Posted
Posted

good stuff!! and thats a fine dyno reading! now everytime you have some work done and dinoed you have a base of comparrison! if it makes you feel better my gtr first dyno made 147 from reccolection on stock boost with minor mods. top stuff

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219020-my-first-dyno/#findComment-3863005
Share on other sites
(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted

Good start with the frontmount intercooler

Get an air pod or stick to the standard air box and up grade the panel filter. Car could breath abit better.

BTW did you have an exhaust? Can't remember when I saw ya car at the East Side meet up...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219020-my-first-dyno/#findComment-3863008
Share on other sites
dezz Grand Master

dezz

Posted
Posted

12psi on the stock ECU is a waste of time

if you want the max out of the stock turbo, you'll need engine management. either standalone (pfc etc) or piggyback (SAFC etc)

in a manual you could expect 200rwkw with supporting mods (3" turbo back exhaust etc) maybe a touch less in an auto.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219020-my-first-dyno/#findComment-3863011
Share on other sites
dmac_25 Grand Master

dmac_25

Posted
Posted
  dezz said:
12psi on the stock ECU is a waste of time

if you want the max out of the stock turbo, you'll need engine management. either standalone (pfc etc) or piggyback (SAFC etc)

in a manual you could expect 200rwkw with supporting mods (3" turbo back exhaust etc) maybe a touch less in an auto.

True with the ecu get a safc for budget or if you have funds get power fc

i was trying to get the bloke some free power

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219020-my-first-dyno/#findComment-3863014
Share on other sites
dmac_25 Grand Master

dmac_25

Posted
Posted
  dezz said:
12psi on the stock ECU is a waste of time

if you want the max out of the stock turbo, you'll need engine management. either standalone (pfc etc) or piggyback (SAFC etc)

in a manual you could expect 200rwkw with supporting mods (3" turbo back exhaust etc) maybe a touch less in an auto.

Also no go with pfc an auto if you want good tuneablity go emanage ultimate for the auto

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219020-my-first-dyno/#findComment-3863018
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted
  gazal said:
How do you read the boost gauage? it's start at -0.00 then it goes up to 0.50 or something does it means that it is running at .5 boost? if the car has been boosted at 10 pounds should it should 10? a bit confuse here.

the stock boost guage is in mmhg not boost or psi

it goes from -760mmhg to 760mhg

when its near -500 at idle, its becuase the engine is in vacuum

when it words its way towards zero and past zero, the engine is in positive boost

so +5 is 500mmhg which is 9.6psi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219020-my-first-dyno/#findComment-3863031
Share on other sites
gazal Collaborator

gazal

Posted
  • Author
Posted
  (00)SKYLINE(00) said:
BTW did you have an exhaust? Can't remember when I saw ya car at the East Side meet up...

The exhaust is still stock. All i have is a magnaflow muffler. I'm planning to get either a greddy or hks exhaust system not sure which one yet.

  paulr33 said:
the stock boost guage is in mmhg not boost or psi

it goes from -760mmhg to 760mhg

when its near -500 at idle, its becuase the engine is in vacuum

when it words its way towards zero and past zero, the engine is in positive boost

so +5 is 500mmhg which is 9.6psi

Thanks for that.. :P so i'm gussing that when it reaches +0.65 its around 10-11psi?

I read somewhere that a guy got his car to 185kw with a stock ecu.. possible? i want to get the most out of the stock ecu for the moment as i'm saving up to get a haltech ecu..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219020-my-first-dyno/#findComment-3863715
Share on other sites
WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted

nice work!

i pulled 106rwkw on my first dyno, fairly stock rb20 auto

2 years later i pulled 170rwkw, still with the auto and only a few more mods!

its good to get a "standard" dyno figure, as it feels better to be able to see exactly what your mods have done to the car..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219020-my-first-dyno/#findComment-3865025
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan 路 Posted

      Like I said, "black magic" LOL In the end,  it is what it is, and hopefully, what this here knuckle head has done is an improvement and not a hindrance Not that I actually notice any negatives now, or that I will get any seat of the pants benefits when all is said and done, but best practice says I shouldn't be pulling intake air from the hot engine bay  Famous last words: I cannot see it being any worse than what it is at the moment 馃
    • GTSBoy
      NC MX5

      By GTSBoy 路 Posted

      If the gases flowing in those two tracts had the same properties, you could maybe use such broscience. But the exhaust has a different composition, different normal density, different actual density (because of different normal density, and mostly because of the massively higher temperature), and different viscosity (again because of much higher temperature). Consequently, all of the fluid dynamics parameters that matter, that you calculate from these inputs, such as the Reynolds number, friction factors (for wall friction) and so on, are all incomparable.
    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy 路 Posted

      And we shall have to presume that Canada is the same?
    • joshuaho96
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By joshuaho96 路 Posted

      In the US almost everything is E10. It can't exceed 10% by much or fuel systems have trouble adapting. At the same time because MTBE, MMT, and TEL are all banned they need as much ethanol in it as possible to boost octane.
    • Kinkstaah
      NC MX5

      By Kinkstaah 路 Posted

      I was mostly jesting. In my experience (and probably only my experience) the R34 GTT physical airbox space is actually too small to flow the amount of power it wanted. By sealing the box, I made it so it could only be fed by the ducts themselves. So you can seal it up and get nice cold air which IS good, but at a certain crossover point: More Hot Air > Less Cold Air I don't think you're at this point. In my case merely ducting the hot air intake with a very focused set of ducts counteracts the fact it's in a V8 engine bay. More cold air obviously best. The solution looks great.
脳
脳
  • Create New...