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Bad Traction At How Much Power


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Hey guys i was just curious, at how much rwkw would you say traction becomes a real issue. In stock form i have no traction issues. i have decided to build my car a alittle aiming for around the 220rwkw mark.

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i have pretty much standard suspension i chnaged the shocks with a similar type of Shock just a little more heavy duty than stock...

so at 220rwkw i should have to worry about traction issues...? if thats the case i just saved myself a wad of cash!

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You wont need to worry,you will be able to get the wheels to spin at WOT in 1st but thats about it.

You should start worrying when you roll on the throttle in 3rd and she lights up :thumbsup:

But at that point you have spent a small fortune on the car anyway so whats a few set of tyres.

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get coil overs.. bye bye traction

Yeah i've got about 210kw with pretty stiff coilovers and in the wet its pretty scary on WOT. The back wheels will kick out in second and third as turbo is coming on.... might be something to do with the balding tyres but... :thumbsup: But if your planning on doing some hills runs every now and then, you can't beat coilovers for performance.

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Too many factors mate...suspension setup as said...then tyre choice and width...and also...the power delivery...with light switch type of power delivery you can definitely expect the back to let go...

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i had 221 rwk in my r33 with a real punchy setup and i had no dramas with traction. and stock suspension.

only got a chirp out of 2nd. have real good tyres though. you want traction spend some real good cash on tyres

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If you HAVE problems, then you need to look at your setup

Tyres are the first spot.

Suspension alignments/setup is the second IMO.

Most of the time people having issues with 220rwkw are running stocker rims with 225 tyres.

Having said that i had 225's and was running 270rwkw with great traction, its also about power delivery of the car, controlling the right foot and so on. Not just "mashing" it to the floor and hanging onto the wheel

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Also may depend on your clutch. I got a OS triple plate + coilovers + 275 kuhmo tyres and I just smoke em when trying to launch rwd. Definitely stick with stock suspension and maybe twin plate clutch at the most if you wanna drag. Triple plate is either in or out, no riding.

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i run 214kw with jap spec coilover(stiff as) and standard wheels. traction is pretty much non existant. but as said before depends a lot on the right foot

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mines pretty much stock except exhaust and really hard coilovers and 18s run 265/35/18 on the back!

traction is nice in dry but sucks in wet mainly due to balding tyres and also sydney's bumpy road doesn't help with traction!

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mines pretty much stock except exhaust and really hard coilovers and 18s run 265/35/18 on the back!

traction is nice in dry but sucks in wet mainly due to balding tyres and also sydney's bumpy road doesn't help with traction!

And the fact that its wet :) My shitty proton rips 3rd gear burnouts in the wet.

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I have full traction in 1st (will "chirp" 2nd and 3rd depending on how fast i shift and condition of the road etc etc) with 270rwkw, running tein super drift coilovers with 7kg srpings in rear and 255/35/18 toyo t1r's, rather impressed with how much grip it has!

Edited by nizmo_freek
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mine was spinning in 1st and 2nd when stock.. thanks to big clutch, tight ohlins and 235 rubber. now with almost double power it obviously is very interesting, but not too much different. once its spinning, its spinning... doesnt matter how much power is there

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I don't know if it's me getting crankier or the standard of questions and responses getting dumber.

Here's my take; 300+ rwkw and stock suspension is up to the task? I think not. Sorry, but thats about the dumbest thing i've heard all year. It may squat all the way to the bump stops but what happens when you want to turn a corner (or brake or drive out of a corner for that matter). Yep, 15 year old suspension that was designed to handle all of 140 rwkw when new is almost certainly up to the task of handling 300 odd rwkw without breaking a sweat......nissan certainly know how to engineer their cars to last!

Was the sarcasm obvious enough for everyone?

R32gtst's are between 16 and 20 years old. Do you think the original shocks going to be all that good after 16+ years? I'd suggest as a minimum you replace the shocks as you will have added about 100 rwkw on top of the factory output.

I have a 32gtst with an rb25 that has made as much as 288rwkw. I have coil overs, i don't have traction issues, i can also corner. 3 very simple things contribute to this. Alignment, tyres, swaybars. Anyone who likes to make the sweeping generalization that coilovers mean no traction has no clue about suspension. Sorry, but it's that simple.

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i have to agree, i was sceptic about the change to d2 coil overs come dyno time, but was not the case, you should replaceyour shocks every 30,000 kms anyway, thats about a year of driving for a normal car.

but suspension can change the whole nature of a car, it can go from a almost sponge like drive for a 18 year old r32 to a drift car spec over night with as little as 2K if you know the right guy's.

for staight line drag stocks just ok but not cornering.

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