Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got advised there won't be much difference if i swapped out the -5's for -7 or -9, will just waste my money since i already have the -5's in, so adding tomei cam gears, tomei poncams, arp head studs, and valve springs, hopefully after a tune it will sharpen response abit more than it is now :)

250 or 260 poncams?

Bobby had a talk to me and said in terms of the lag between -5,-7 or -9 is around about the same, not with swapping it out of I already have -5s in,he advised me to get certain parts to improve response. 270 poncams 9.15 lift piggaz :)

So this is wrong?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tomei-poncam-Nissan-skyline-rb26-r34-gtr-in-270-ex-270-9-15-lift-/180970848112

I didn't get it from this seller, just a quick google and link thats all, but did get it from a different seller on ebay.

I'm not trying to be cocky or anything, just another noob trying to learn more xD, but i'm just working off what list was given to me and what i paid for.

Thanks for the info guys, keep it coming please :)

-7's are quite a bit more responsive than the -5's. Though if it is worth doing a turbo swap for that difference? Probably not. I would Just throw some Tomei type A (Maybe B) into it. Give it a good tune and get used to it. The money probably isn't worth the gain for you.

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/efr-set_camshaft_rset.html

This is the tomei website, I can not find them there but do you care to have a look, I would be very suspecious of what it is you got, maybe post the part number when you receive them

Just messaged bobby to double check which ones i got and will definately post up the results. but in terms of the turbo, that what i was advised that it wouldnt be worth that extra money swapping out the turbos for that little bit of response, could spend that money on something else, might end up stroking in the long run, but for now, trying to improve response bit by bit without going to the extreme for now.

Thanks for all the responses guys, alot of help and much appreciated :)

For the long run, roughly how much would it be to convert to single turbo + labour if i wanted to further down the track, considering the parts be good enough for street use, and would i have to change the parts i'm putting in now to suit the single turbo?

Thanks

I recently got my car tuned with 'response' in mind.

I have -7's, ID2000's on pump 98 and stock internals, and this was the result:

1476343_10153636999910301_502255709_n.jp

Does this graph represent a "responsive" engine? Certainly feels responsive, as in there is very little lag when going full tilt.

Obviously it has a long way to go as far as HP is concerned, but would that response be sacrificed if boost pressure was increased?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...