Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently got my car tuned with 'response' in mind.

I have -7's, ID2000's on pump 98 and stock internals, and this was the result:

1476343_10153636999910301_502255709_n.jp

Does this graph represent a "responsive" engine? Certainly feels responsive, as in there is very little lag when going full tilt.

Obviously it has a long way to go as far as HP is concerned, but would that response be sacrificed if boost pressure was increased?

It all depends on the tuner. I get full boost by around 3900RPM for my 320KW. Though i dont have stock internals. Is there a reason you got ID2000? Large injectors for the turbos you are running. Also what AFM are you running? that to me looks like stock AFM maxing out.

Running ID2000's because I will eventually run e85, just ran out of funds to flexfuel setup. Everything else is ready to go though, twin 044's and surge tank etc.

As for AFM's, I switched from a vipec to a haltech platinum pro, so it shouldn't be relying on AFM's as far as I know.

Running ID2000's because I will eventually run e85, just ran out of funds to flexfuel setup. Everything else is ready to go though, twin 044's and surge tank etc.

As for AFM's, I switched from a vipec to a haltech platinum pro, so it shouldn't be relying on AFM's as far as I know.

Interesting. Could possibly just be the age of the motor.

Edited by Anfanee

What would you be expecting? We did ask for a reliable tune. When I decide to rebuild I will chasing HP but at this stage I want it to last as long as possible.

Wouldn't know without looking at the actual health of the engine. Your tuner would know what they are doing. Best to keep it as safe as possible. My tune isn't overly "Safe" its a bit agressive but i have had a ground up rebuild.

That is a nice curve though. From what i've seen most cars run around the 270-290 mark that are still stock internals.

Honestly until you even think about doing internals i wouldn't put in on E85. Has the motor been rebuilt previously? if not 20 years is a long time worth of thrashing haha.

I should have taken some photos of what my motor did to itself...

Edit: as zebra said. It's fine. Im pushing 21PSI through mine...

Edited by Anfanee

Shit that's good for standard actuators. I can't believe they still hold boost that well.

it's more the way the cams are set, making better use of the air it gets meaning the turbos don't have to working as had

a good quality boost controller doesn't hurt either

Haha,don't know,hoping to fix it with next tune,that tune just then was a lazy tune I think,took him an hour

what mods have you got done ?, cause yeah that's not great at all, what boost is that ?

cam gears ? if not get some

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha thanks everyone, I'll take everyone's suggestions into consideration. If I do eventually choose a car ill post it here update on the mods I do.
    • I found the ingredients at larger amounts from a Coffee Shop. 1kg Citric Acid for €8.50 500g Baking Soda for €2.50 I tried it out tonight distilled water (I got from my ACs) and dish soap. It does get bubbly with dish soap. In just two hours the hanger has improved significantly and rubbing against any remaining rust seems to flake it off. I'm going to leave it a little bit longer and see how it goes. I have read that someone even used this solution in an ultrasonic cleaner to clean a seized water pump which brought it back to life.
    • If you like more modern stuff than the R series, you should check out a V37 400R, they are pretty mod friendly
    • Haha luckily we don't have emissions, inspections, or any laws against power adders here. They only thing they somewhat keep an eye out for are ridiculously loud exhausts. 
    • Just wanted to pop in an update on my setup. The CD swap has been great, I love the mazworks housing for the overall simplicity. I ended up sealing my trans tunnel with a thin sheet of aluminum reused some of the holes on the trans tunnel, and laid some window sealing EPS foam around the edges. Works great, really quieted things down and sealed up the car.  As for the power comment. Right now I am also running about 650whp. with the way the bell housing is attached to the face of the transmission I have zero doubts it would be fine, mainly because the input shaft and main shaft bearings are seated into the bell housing adapter. This means the load is NOT on the bolts to maintain the power, rather into he casing of the bell housing; Yes the bolts are doing some work there, but with both shafts locked in zero worries.  End of the day, the Mazworks solution is the easiest and safest. no need to take your trans to a shop to get milled perfectly, it fits with minimal clearancing, and you can use all your existing clutch and flywheel.  Driving wise the CD has been great compared to the big box, I'll probably swap my final drive at some point. The serial 9 shifter is gooooood, my only qualm is how tight it is, it takes a fair bit to get use to, 5th and 6th are a bit eh/hard to find at times, but maybe I need re-adjusting, and I think my clutch master is very tired and needs a rebuild. 
×
×
  • Create New...