Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently got my car tuned with 'response' in mind.

I have -7's, ID2000's on pump 98 and stock internals, and this was the result:

1476343_10153636999910301_502255709_n.jp

Does this graph represent a "responsive" engine? Certainly feels responsive, as in there is very little lag when going full tilt.

Obviously it has a long way to go as far as HP is concerned, but would that response be sacrificed if boost pressure was increased?

It all depends on the tuner. I get full boost by around 3900RPM for my 320KW. Though i dont have stock internals. Is there a reason you got ID2000? Large injectors for the turbos you are running. Also what AFM are you running? that to me looks like stock AFM maxing out.

Running ID2000's because I will eventually run e85, just ran out of funds to flexfuel setup. Everything else is ready to go though, twin 044's and surge tank etc.

As for AFM's, I switched from a vipec to a haltech platinum pro, so it shouldn't be relying on AFM's as far as I know.

Running ID2000's because I will eventually run e85, just ran out of funds to flexfuel setup. Everything else is ready to go though, twin 044's and surge tank etc.

As for AFM's, I switched from a vipec to a haltech platinum pro, so it shouldn't be relying on AFM's as far as I know.

Interesting. Could possibly just be the age of the motor.

Edited by Anfanee

What would you be expecting? We did ask for a reliable tune. When I decide to rebuild I will chasing HP but at this stage I want it to last as long as possible.

Wouldn't know without looking at the actual health of the engine. Your tuner would know what they are doing. Best to keep it as safe as possible. My tune isn't overly "Safe" its a bit agressive but i have had a ground up rebuild.

That is a nice curve though. From what i've seen most cars run around the 270-290 mark that are still stock internals.

Honestly until you even think about doing internals i wouldn't put in on E85. Has the motor been rebuilt previously? if not 20 years is a long time worth of thrashing haha.

I should have taken some photos of what my motor did to itself...

Edit: as zebra said. It's fine. Im pushing 21PSI through mine...

Edited by Anfanee

Shit that's good for standard actuators. I can't believe they still hold boost that well.

it's more the way the cams are set, making better use of the air it gets meaning the turbos don't have to working as had

a good quality boost controller doesn't hurt either

Haha,don't know,hoping to fix it with next tune,that tune just then was a lazy tune I think,took him an hour

what mods have you got done ?, cause yeah that's not great at all, what boost is that ?

cam gears ? if not get some

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...