Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

But he has already spent money on having the single turbo changed and tuned and still isn't happy with it, so his next option is to look at the engine capacity.

Personally I wouldn't be changing the turbo charger at the same time, I would just do the stroker and see how it drives after that

I thought he bought it like that. Regardless he should experience different setups before he makes his decision not rely on someone else's preference. He might decide to go back to twins, never know?

My 32 still is a 2.6

Yep mate, I'm the one making a fool of my self :thumbsup:

Grow up mate.

All I am doing is suggesting he experiences different setups before he makes his decision because obviously he hasn't and the last thing he should do is rely on advice based on egotistical bravado some members show. Go and have a cold shower.

I thought he bought it like that. Regardless he should experience different setups before he makes his decision not rely on someone else's preference. He might decide to go back to twins, never know?

he bought it with a trust t78 and changed it to a more responsive pt6262 but still wants more, so capacity increase would be the next step and a pt6262 has been proven to match the -9s down low but walk away from them up high

XGTRX in regards to your uneducated opinion I have driven both a built and stock 2.6 and larger capacity RB's. Once you get into a stroked RB that's actually set up properly - holy shit hold on to your panties. Yes the 2.6 was way ahead of it's time (25 years ago) but a lot has changed since then. I suggest perhaps a bit more reading is in order..

he bought it with a trust t78 and changed it to a more responsive pt6262 but still wants more, so capacity increase would be the next step and a pt6262 has been proven to match the -9s down low but walk away from them up high

On a 26 or stroker.

HI Guys, had way too much to drink , but here we go :)

All good, if I cannot get the R34 to go better than my 350Gt TT I will sell it and cop the loss. The 350 is a very enjoyable ride except it is Auto/(tiptronic is a waste of space)and the only reason I bought an auto was if we went out the missus could drive home,after I put the APS Twin Turbo system on she only drove it one more time, she would not drive it again after putting her foot down, scared the crap out of her, now, no missus, so got a manual ASAP = R34GTR and what a gutless piece of shit it was up to 5k,then mad, much better now and I want more = 3.2 stroker.

I thank you all for your past advice , now I need advice on who to get to build it. I need the job done in one shop, I need to drop the car off and pick it up finished, pay the bill and drive back to the bush.

Apart from saying "do not do it" , any free advice welcome :)

Doesn't matter anyway. He can experience a -9 e85 setup easily and go back to twins if he chooses. Not a big deal. He need to experience it first though. Anyway hope it all works out for him. The more setups he looks at the clearer his decision will be.

HI Guys, had way too much to drink , but here we go :)

All good, if I cannot get the R34 to go better than my 350Gt TT I will sell it and cop the loss. The 350 is a very enjoyable ride except it is Auto/(tiptronic is a waste of space)and the only reason I bought an auto was if we went out the missus could drive home,after I put the APS Twin Turbo system on she only drove it one more time, she would not drive it again after putting her foot down, scared the crap out of her, now, no missus, so got a manual ASAP = R34GTR and what a gutless piece of shit it was up to 5k,then mad, much better now and I want more = 3.2 stroker.

I thank you all for your past advice , now I need advice on who to get to build it. I need the job done in one shop, I need to drop the car off and pick it up finished, pay the bill and drive back to the bush.

Apart from saying "do not do it" , any free advice welcome :)

All the best of luck mate. Before you take the plunge do yourself a favour and experience a couple of setups so you know exactly what you are going to get, how it's going to drive and other things that may be important to you. And make sure you investigate the reliability of your setup esp driveline. Good luck mate.

XGTRX in regards to your uneducated opinion I have driven both a built and stock 2.6 and larger capacity RB's. Once you get into a stroked RB that's actually set up properly - holy shit hold on to your panties. Yes the 2.6 was way ahead of it's time (25 years ago) but a lot has changed since then. I suggest perhaps a bit more reading is in order..

Dont need to read more mate have driven many setups in 25 years, definitely not uneducated in regards to fast cars, you know the ones you spend your life looking at YouTube and reading about on forums. But every morning I fire up my 26 and life could not be better. I wish this on everyone if that's what they want.

And the 26 is more than capable today more than it ever was... I prove that to myself ever day... Now YOU can read about it.

All the best of luck mate. Before you take the plunge do yourself a favour and experience a couple of setups so you know exactly what you are going to get, how it's going to drive and other things that may be important to you. And make sure you investigate the reliability of your setup esp driveline. Good luck mate.

Hi, thanks for the advice but I live in the bush and no chance to have a drive of different R set-ups , if I had a brain, I should have stayed in Sydney for a few days before I bought the car and looked around:(

I have spoken to blokes with the stroker setup I am after and they, except for one where more than happy.but even the one said it was a good ride.

I have had a quote and think I should get some more.

I have asked Rob at Rips for a quote on a 3.2 and 3L long motor and sell mine as it has been built to take hard work.

Have a quote on the RB30 3.2Lt + head work and as it is not cheap, so I will try to get some quotes from a few shops , ANY INFO WELCOME.

I have asked Rips for a quote on a long 3.2 and 3Lt and maybe sell mine as is, there is only 3000Klms ish on the motor since it was built , I drove the last 300Klms to run it in. My motor has been built for hard work, JE/NITTO forged pistons, H beam connecting rods, Nitto drag gaskets, ARP main & head stud kits and all the stuff that makes it go hard.

Any suggestion welcome, except , don't do it :woot:

I own both a well sorted 2.6 and a well sorted 3.0 ( motor wise anyway, the suspension still needs work ) and both are much of a muchness for response and the 3.0 kicks the shit out of the 2.6 and defecates on its remains :D

If that makes me egotistical then so be it, personally I'm quiet proud of what I've achieved given my childhood

  • Like 2

I don't watch cars on video buddy because they can be deceiving and a load of crap just like reading the rubbish people tend to say on this forum. I happen to work in the wonderful world of the motoring industry so I am privileged to speak to and drive many people's cars. Including quite a few of the boys set ups on here. The 2.6 is only capable of so much driveability. I had a standard engine RB26 and to be honest compared to someone like Piggaz stroked 2.8 you can throw "response" out the window on the 2.6.

A quote from GTRNUR with his 3.4L

"Very revy off idle almost like an RB26 with a stupidly light flywheel. Except it doesn't fall on its head when you light up the clutch"

And if you actually went down to any of the garages at time attack you'd be lucky to find anyone running a 2.6 and there's a good reason for it.

And if you actually went down to any of the garages at time attack you'd be lucky to find anyone running a 2.6 and there's a good reason for it.

sure, and the reason is that those guys are happy to spend $200k+ to build their cars :P But it's certainly not for response, they are about the furthest away from street cars you can get. They just need 500kw to get near those pesky evos.

anyway, let the ego talking continue! no point talking on topic in the wasteland, or wherever this thread is.

Would you consider an R35 GTR Pete?

By the time you spend the money and root around building a 3.2L you're probably better off selling ya 34 and putting the cash ya gunna spend on that motor into a 35 in my opinion. Its a decade newer. More refined car with nicer interior etc and you will have ALL the torque you need with a 3.8L

Also with an Exhaust and a tune you will probably see around the 380kw zone.

I think its a big gamble spending 20-30K on something you MAY NOT even be happy with still?

Then you've got the driveline issues to chase with the bigger torqueyier motor too and that can be another 20K easily!

I think its crazy throwing around 100K (including car purchase) on it when you could have a horny as hell 35 with all the creature comforts and torque you seek all in a much newer nicer package for probably the same money at the end of the day with a lot less drama too. My $0.02 :D

Edited by Mick_o

Would you consider an R35 GTR Pete?

By the time you spend the money and root around building a 3.2L you're probably better off selling ya 34 and putting the cash ya gunna spend on that motor into a 35 in my opinion. Its a decade newer. More refined car with nicer interior etc and you will have ALL the torque you need with a 3.8L

Also with an Exhaust and a tune you will probably see around the 380kw zone.

I think its a big gamble spending 20-30K on something you MAY NOT even be happy with still?

Then you've got the driveline issues to chase with the bigger torqueyier motor too and that can be another 20K easily!

I think its crazy throwing around 100K (including car purchase) on it when you could have a horny as hell 35 with all the creature comforts and torque you seek all in a much newer nicer package for probably the same money at the end of the day with a lot less drama too. My $0.02 :D

Good idea. I know someone with a 10 second R32 who is annoyed that stockish R35s are competitive with his car round a track!

Hi Mick-o

I did think about that some time ago but I could not bring myself to get one, I always wanted to wait for the prices to come down and when they did I always wanted the next year model, bloody idiot :/

I cannot even answer your question to myself, I do not know why I am doing this, stubborn I guess as I want this car to be what I imagined it was,and back then it was really something and I want to bring my car into 2014 :) :) I am sure this statement will piss a lot off but who gives a shit :)

I do like driving the R34 ,it is like cars were but with grunt :)

I will not be taking it to its full potential , maybe 450awkw and should I want more I will get it :)

Cheers

Pete

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The SS button head cap screw on the back? If so, good to know. I presumed it was there for basic assembly and nothing more. 
    • Hello, everyone. I'm new to the forum. I have a 1989 Nissan Skyline R32 GTR. I have lost all power to the interior, including AC controls, the gauge cluster, turn signals, and windows. Stuff that still works includes the horn, brake lights, radio, and headlights. All fuses, in the interior and exterior boxes, tested good.  It starts and runs fine, just with no gauge power or anything stated above. No warning lights either. Things that I have tested: - Fusable link tested fine - No other fuses blown - Alternator good - IGN switch tested fine - With my power probe, I can backfeed power through the IGN pin to the plug on the back of the gauge cluster, and everything comes back on.    So my theory is something on the control side that sends the ignition power through the system isn't doing its job, or a wire is broken. (I would think that it is the ignition switch that would do that, but who knows?). The ignition relays don't fire (all relays tested good). So what tells them to fire other than the IGN switch?  I would really appreciate it if someone had some insight on this. I have tons of hours into this; I don't want to give up in defeat! I have the HD wiring diagram, but having all those wires laid out like that on one sheet of paper makes things pretty hard to follow.  Thanks for reading, and thanks for the replies.  Where should I look next? Thanks.
    • Install a MAP sensor pre and post throttle. Best data you could have for NA, then play with the bends and/or air box and see how much of inflection is created at WOT on the plot.
    • And gone to a new home  
    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
×
×
  • Create New...