Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Thought I'd throw a couple more into the mix:

1) Kincrome Aluminium Racing Jack - Low Profile for $384.00 (80mm height)

http://www.transquip.com.au/product.aspx?I...&PARENT=605

2) 3 Tonne Aluminium Racing Jack - 93mm height @ $535.00

http://www.apachetools.com.au/index.php?productID=128

Jacks above available locally in OZ.

Cheers,

Ben

  • Replies 158
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

your local snap-on man will have one. they are nothing like the ones pictured. they are very low and have a very low snout which is at minimum height.

they are the way to go for sure. and they are not a new model, i've been using one for nearly 10 years. at least 7 years +.

  • 3 weeks later...

My home workshop jack is a western tools number . It isnt low by any standard. about 150 mil high but it does lift to a full 80cm height. It rox the schizz for getting the line up off the ground with more than enough room to skate around under the car without feeling clausto. Rated to 1800 kilo too.

Another point to remember if you do purchase one of these higher lift style jacks is that you will also need bigger stronger jack stands to take advantage of them. Like most on here i wont get under a car supported by a jack only so its pointless having a mega lift jack and short jack stands.

My home workshop jack is a western tools number . It isnt low by any standard. about 150 mil high but it does lift to a full 80cm height. It rox the schizz for getting the line up off the ground with more than enough room to skate around under the car without feeling clausto. Rated to 1800 kilo too.

Another point to remember if you do purchase one of these higher lift style jacks is that you will also need bigger stronger jack stands to take advantage of them. Like most on here i wont get under a car supported by a jack only so its pointless having a mega lift jack and short jack stands.

true enough

i have 3 tonne jack stands, but they are so big my current jacks dont raise the car high enough to use them lol

im getting one with the krudd money :/

true enough

i have 3 tonne jack stands, but they are so big my current jacks dont raise the car high enough to use them lol

im getting one with the krudd money :)

I've got the same problem... massive jack stands and a dodgy low lift jack :)

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Shop is in Smithfield. It is good, however the pin that holds the top handle in place fell to pieces and I haven't had time to replace it.

The foot pump seems to be good, however I really need to go over it and make sure everything is tight.

I'm going to use this jack at the track (even though it weighs 50kg) because the reach and height allows me to easily change tyres without having to drive onto blocks to get jack access.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...