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Hey duncan, just looking at your fuel sytem and surge tank, there is only three fittings on it.....does this mean you dont run the fuel rail return back to the surge tank? We have found after setting up dozens of drag cars that the best way to eliminate any possibillity of fuel starvation is to run your lift pump to fill the tank (obvious), your feed out the bottom,(again obvious), but then the fuel return line in and then an overflow back to your cell. This method ensures that the surge tank is always full. i have seen cars set up without the return line plumbed in and they empty the tank quicker than the lift pump can fill it. admittedly drag cars run some big fuel pumps, like two 044s but then again you might be running similar. This system also allows you to put the surge tank wherever you want as gravity draining back to the main tank is not necessary as the surge tank is pressurised.

looks neat stuart (and excellent welding too whoever did that).

we made some progress today, the engine bay is a subtle hue of red.

red_engine_bay.jpg

more importantly, the fuel cell is mounted up (mostly, just needs another strap around from the subframe, but that needs a tab welded on the right - nissan were kind enough to supply us with one on the left side, might have been for an exhaust originally?).

its hard to tell but the top sits flush with the boot floor. just need a cover/firewall for it now.

fuel_cell_mounting.jpg

best of all, nissan provided us with an excellent spot to mount the surge tank and fuel pumps up here. attessa resoviour will move but we can live with that. looks like a very good solution

swirl_pot.jpg

yeah totally agreed, there is a 4th fitting on the top (behind the chasis in the pic) and we will run the return from the fuel rail to the surge tank. I can't get my head around a setup without that, otherwise the lift pump has to be as big as the main pump, and it has to always have a fuel supply too....can't see the point in a setup that returns to the main tank not the swirl pot.

we are running no standard oil cooler on the block, we have mounted the oil relocator directly to the block. proper oil cooler will be mounted elsewhere (haven't picked the best spot yet.)

yeh, thought that might be the case, figured it was on top. funny that people dont run it this way.

yeah totally agreed, there is a 4th fitting on the top (behind the chasis in the pic) and we will run the return from the fuel rail to the surge tank. I can't get my head around a setup without that, otherwise the lift pump has to be as big as the main pump, and it has to always have a fuel supply too....can't see the point in a setup that returns to the main tank not the swirl pot.

we are running no standard oil cooler on the block, we have mounted the oil relocator directly to the block. proper oil cooler will be mounted elsewhere (haven't picked the best spot yet.)

we are running no standard oil cooler on the block, we have mounted the oil relocator directly to the block. proper oil cooler will be mounted elsewhere (haven't picked the best spot yet.)

Oh nice so there is no problem with a releif spring system in the standard unit? sounds like a good idea tho that thing loks ugly and heavy on the front :D

p.s thanks for the offer on the bolts, i picked up some lastnite and bent them. so i bought 2 high tinsile ones this morning for 6bucks.

can anyone in this thread tell me if 300zx Arp rod bolts are the ones to buy for standard rb rods?? this information is like getting blood from a stone!!

Edited by Angus Smart
can't see the point in a setup that returns to the main tank not the swirl pot.

Maybe it is to keep the fuel cooler? If you run the return back to the swirl pot your fuel temps will go through the roof. Remember the majority of the fuel that goes to the rail is not used in the engine it is for injector lubrication and cooling.

Isn’t the swirl pot there to stop fuel starvation? Not a miniature fuel tank :D ????

Just a thought.

Keep up the good work guys.

PS: I have found out why my alarm kept going off at Wakefield, I melted the alarm harness. lol Cheap shit.

yeah fo shiz ryan its just a swirl tank not a fuel tank. but the whole return the fuel rail to the tank thing won't work at all unless the lift pump is as big as the main pump....which we are not intending to do.

re fuel temp, if we have a problem we have a few china oil coolers that we could run the fuel thru.

They might need it.

How is the little race car going Neil?

Ryan the Radical is doing me no harm at all at the moment,,,actually I'm getting very used to it. 1.46 at E/C was a happy time and more to come.

Do you think Duncan was pissed when he posted tonight???.

Neil.

Ryan the Radical is doing me no harm at all at the moment,,,actually I'm getting very used to it. 1.46 at E/C was a happy time and more to come.

Do you think Duncan was pissed when he posted tonight???.

Neil.

Good to hear.

Yer he might have had a few cold ones. lol

yeah fo shiz ryan its just a swirl tank not a fuel tank. but the whole return the fuel rail to the tank thing won't work at all unless the lift pump is as big as the main pump....which we are not intending to do.

re fuel temp, if we have a problem we have a few china oil coolers that we could run the fuel thru.

not necessarily, provided your lift pump can flow as much fuel against (effectively) zero pressure as the main pump can flow at 2.5bar plus.

Regardless, i've run my surge tank exactly as you have described with no issues for the last year and a half, primarily because i couldn't be stuffed adding a fitting to the stock tank for a return. I've only done up to about 15 minutes flat out before having to give the tyres a cool down, but if your talking about a lap dash special then thats about the worst it will get.

Unless you're running multiple 044's i can't see an issue with fuel temp. It's not like you have the same fuel sitting in the surge tank getting hotter and hotter as it keeps getting pushed through the engine bay. There is an overflow and there is fresh (cool) fuel from the tank getting pumped in.

i guess your one of the luckier ones, as i have seen RX3 rotary empty a 3 litre surge tank in 300metres, as the lift pump was a holley blue and had two 044 running forward. there is alot of variables, but the smart way to plumb it is the way that has been described. but at the same time if your system is working for you, dont change it. i have tryed something completely different again in my car, should work but quite possibly could be a failure. its all trial and error in the end.

not necessarily, provided your lift pump can flow as much fuel against (effectively) zero pressure as the main pump can flow at 2.5bar plus.

Regardless, i've run my surge tank exactly as you have described with no issues for the last year and a half, primarily because i couldn't be stuffed adding a fitting to the stock tank for a return. I've only done up to about 15 minutes flat out before having to give the tyres a cool down, but if your talking about a lap dash special then thats about the worst it will get.

Unless you're running multiple 044's i can't see an issue with fuel temp. It's not like you have the same fuel sitting in the surge tank getting hotter and hotter as it keeps getting pushed through the engine bay. There is an overflow and there is fresh (cool) fuel from the tank getting pumped in.

glad you asked!

we called in an experienced sprayer today to actually get the interior done. I was having a bastard of a time but Neil did a great job. And I love the red highlights in his hair now lol.

red_interior1.jpg

red_interior2.jpg

red_interior3.jpg

also cleaned up the front subfame a bit and gave it a rough paint too. the hubs are off getting bearings in, and the cvs are being regreased too. Once we have a swaybar (cough gary), steering rack bushes (cough gary) and notlec upper arms (cough gary), the front end of the chasis will be pretty much ready to go.

red_engine_bay1.jpg

Also the boot is half mounted up (still needs some more work, and the seams need to be welded properly. rear wing is on too, nice and solid.

boot_and_spoiler1.jpg

oh and neils cool new toy that puts threaded inserts into metal panels for 6mm bolts looks like it might get some use :thumbsup:

rear subframe and driveshafts are ready for adjustment and rebuilding respectively, and jetwreck has rear brakes for his volvo at last.

got a set of standard front calipers and discs, a pair of blitz atmo blow off valves and 2 sets of 32 dash vents for sale too for anyone who is interested.

Duncan will no doubt post up some more pictures, but here are a few more with today's progress.

It's a pity we can't reverse the working on work/working on car days ratio, or we'd be getting a lot closer to finished!

Our master painter Neil was on hand today to lend his artistic talents, in hair styling! He now has a very fashionable set of red highlights and eyebrows.

Duncan got the cradles all cleaned and painted and re-assembled, and I got the glory jobs of mounting the new boot lid and spoiler. The spoiler is 'gay' according to Neil, but I like it, and it is stiff as a board, so should actually work instead of just being flexible wing that does nothing but bend up and down. That being said, it could do with a bit of raising to catch a bit more free air.

Next week should be the final coat of paint on the body and we have to start on the turbos to get them mounted properly. Then a whole lot of plumbing and we should be ready to drop the engine and gearbox in.

Still have s***loads to do, wiring, gauges, dash, seats to name a few, but it's starting to come together and look like a car that may actually get driven in the near future.

Pictures won't upload for some reason. I'll leave it to Duncan or wait and see if the problem sorts itself out.

Mark

glad you asked!

So much red, building a copy of the winfield car are we?

The spoiler is 'gay' according to Neil, but I like it, and it is stiff as a board, so should actually work instead of just being flexible wing that does nothing but bend up and down.

I can picture him saying that :huh:

Hey Neil how much are they paying you per hour?

Are you guys storing it inside between working sessions or does it sit outside exposed ot the elements?

Sweeet as guys! its coming along nicely!

Because search functing isnt working i will ask here what did you do with the 4wd steering lines and pump? i removed the pump but the lines going to the back are still there and i think one to the front rack too? what to do with them? i'm going on a diet too :D

tho the engine is getting a luxuary treatment, Puter rods and mahle pistons that combo for under $2000 :D

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The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. 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The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. 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