Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gareth runs the RDA's on his GT-R for track work, and says they're holding up fine so I'm sure they'll be enough for your street application.

The Stoptechs are pricey, I wouldn't bother with that expenditure for the street personally.

  • Replies 204
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Just got up at 4 and did a dawn raid on Authur's Seat and the surrounding hills. Great fun. 17" were fine, though they definitely tramline more than the 16 x 8s....but I reckon they look super cool so I'll have to put up with that for now, plus bigger brake will fit. The Tyres I inherited were truely terrible, though I am comparing them to some R specs I was running on the 16s so perhaps an unfair comparison.

I've contacted Stuckey and they're highly recommending Dunlop Supersport Race in 245/40 17. Apparently they're very quiet, very good in the wet and only slightly slower (half second) in the dry around a track, which I don't care about. They're also cheap (relatively.....) at $395.

Problem is the aspect ration is 40 which means they will be about 25mm less in diameter which will mean the car will sit lower and the rim won't fill the guards at the top unless I lower it (which I'm not sure if I can do with the coilovers I inherited), but overall I'm dropping it 25mm if I can.....

I've seen very small dimensional changes in rims and tyres make a big difference to a car's stance, so I'm a little worries about going down this road.

Any thoughts? Are there better alternatives than the R Dunlops (Bridgestone?), perhaps with better sizes?

Just got up at 4 and did a dawn raid on Authur's Seat and the surrounding hills. Great fun. 17" were fine, though they definitely tramline more than the 16 x 8s....but I reckon they look super cool so I'll have to put up with that for now, plus bigger brake will fit. The Tyres I inherited were truely terrible, though I am comparing them to some R specs I was running on the 16s so perhaps an unfair comparison.

I've contacted Stuckey and they're highly recommending Dunlop Supersport Race in 245/40 17. Apparently they're very quiet, very good in the wet and only slightly slower (half second) in the dry around a track, which I don't care about. They're also cheap (relatively.....) at $395.

Problem is the aspect ration is 40 which means they will be about 25mm less in diameter which will mean the car will sit lower and the rim won't fill the guards at the top unless I lower it (which I'm not sure if I can do with the coilovers I inherited), but overall I'm dropping it 25mm if I can.....

I've seen very small dimensional changes in rims and tyres make a big difference to a car's stance, so I'm a little worries about going down this road.

Any thoughts? Are there better alternatives than the R Dunlops (Bridgestone?), perhaps with better sizes?

25mm in diameter is only 12.5mm in radius, so your car will only sit 12mm lower, which to me is whether you had a big dinenr or not :)

25mm in diameter is only 12.5mm in radius, so your car will only sit 12mm lower, which to me is whether you had a big dinenr or not :(

Agreed, but you then have an extra 12mm between the guard and the top of the tyre which will potentially look, erm, gay. So you have to lower the car 12mm, thus 24/5mm overall and the whole lowering the suspension issue.....

I've found some RE55s in 235/45 which give a 9mm diameter difference which should be OK but they don't come in until August (they reckon).

Anyone recommend where to buy these units most cost effectively in Melbourne or there abouts?

Still unsure of which way to go brake wise. I'll give you a call in the next couple of days........

Hi LotusGTR,

Before upgrading anything on you brake systerm, you can try to order a set of Brake Master Cylinder Stopper for your R32. The brake cylinder stopper can reduce the movement of brake master cylinder when everytime you apply the brake padel. As a result, full brake power can be transmitted to the calipers no brake power will be lost.

Hope this information helps.... :(

Hi LotusGTR,

Before upgrading anything on you brake systerm, you can try to order a set of Brake Master Cylinder Stopper for your R32. The brake cylinder stopper can reduce the movement of brake master cylinder when everytime you apply the brake padel. As a result, full brake power can be transmitted to the calipers no brake power will be lost.

Hope this information helps.... :(

Some people notice a big improvement from pedal effort, others less. I think it has to do with the condition of firewall etc etc. But is a nice to have that compliments the other brakign components.

But as a stand alone modification, it will do very little to help the braking capacity of an underbraked GTR :) But is $150 odd well spent all the same

I really like the brake setup i have on my gtr,

i have f50's on the front with project mu pads, i think some crazy high level 900's (silly purchace) but before i had the project mu's the pads that came with the car were quiet nice for track work and spirited driving.

on the rear i have rda standard size rotors with project mu 500's the balance seems pretty good.

i've not checked what brake master i have but i think its standard 32, and there is a cusco stopper on it,

Ive got the RDAs all round and theyre great. Slotted and dimpled. At sandown they were fine while being STOMPED on coming up to turn one...no good vibrations after, i just need some new pads cos bendix are shite.

Sorry to hijack but are the camber-rod-deflectors very helpful? Ive chopped the backing plates too. (info could be helpful to you Lotus) Will aluminium plates do the same as the plastic ones? Anyone have pics of them?

Agreed, but you then have an extra 12mm between the guard and the top of the tyre which will potentially look, erm, gay. So you have to lower the car 12mm, thus 24/5mm overall and the whole lowering the suspension issue.....

I've found some RE55s in 235/45 which give a 9mm diameter difference which should be OK but they don't come in until August (they reckon).

Anyone recommend where to buy these units most cost effectively in Melbourne or there abouts?

Still unsure of which way to go brake wise. I'll give you a call in the next couple of days........

Hey mate, try Protek Tyres or Bridgestone Maribyrnong for the RE55's. They may have some in stock.

Femno: Attached is some pics mate. I can't comment on them because I don't have them, but am looking to put some on in the near future.

post-8405-1214347038_thumb.jpg

post-8405-1214347048_thumb.jpg

Thanks Phunky. What are these called? Where'dya get em from? Look simple and possibly effective.

Does anyone know if cutting off (they don't unbolt?) the dust shields / guards will give any dramas re roadworthiness? I'm too old for dramas with the cops and re-instating things that got 'cut off' when it comes to selling it on (in the distant future I hope)

Also, I guess Nissan put them there for a reason, so what are the downsides of cutting them off?

Thanks everyone.

Ive got the RDAs all round and theyre great. Slotted and dimpled. At sandown they were fine while being STOMPED on coming up to turn one...no good vibrations after, i just need some new pads cos bendix are shite.

Sorry to hijack but are the camber-rod-deflectors very helpful? Ive chopped the backing plates too. (info could be helpful to you Lotus) Will aluminium plates do the same as the plastic ones? Anyone have pics of them?

Femno, you running standard calipers and 296mm rotors? Anything else you've done other than the rotors?

i've just ordered a set of tyres from the US...

I'm sick of being fleeced by the Aussie retailers (who in defence are being fleeced by the distributors).

I've ordered a set of Michelin Pilot Sport PS2s in 255/35/18

4 for a total of ~1500 US$. Now even with duty and customs ~20%, call it $2000 aussie dollars.

The quote I've gotten from a few retailers here are between $750-900 per tyre!

They're made in france, then sent to either the US or AUS. How is there such a big difference???

reason for my rant, LotusGTR, you may want to check out the semis that you can get out of the states - eg yokohama A048 from the place I odered:

www.tirerack.com

Chairman, I've got mates who buy stuff from the States for their Mustangs and they say the FTA means no duty, or is that under a certain value?

Thanks for the tip. I'll check it out.

They're just called air deflector plates from what I'm aware, you can get them from nismo.com.au under the brakes section.

Sorry, I can't help with the legality issue of the backing plates, I have no idea!

Marcus: Good link mate, pity they don't sell RE55s in the states, or DZ03g's :(

Dane

Chairman, I've got mates who buy stuff from the States for their Mustangs and they say the FTA means no duty, or is that under a certain value?

Thanks for the tip. I'll check it out.

I think it's under $1K AUD that is duty free.

ps I'm Marcus :(

Dane, yeah this tyre retailer doens't sell RE55s but I'm sure you can get them.

You could always go Michelin Pilot Sport Cups :)

A mate of mine bought in some very large 17' tyres (300+ bag width FFS) from tire rack in the states for his Daytona coupe. The FTA means no import duty (F=free) & the price was so cheap as to be laughable.

As for the air deflectors from Uniques - last time I enquired they were not available for R32 GT-R's. Hopefully that has changed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...