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Sougi is very deceptive, it looks like regular $5 XMP (XTR whatever) shite. I've been running Sougi S6000 full synth in my GTR for acouple weeks and for all intents and purposes it feels like just like my old oil (Motul X-Cess 5w-40) but interested to see the condition of the oil is (compared to the Motul changes) when it comes to changing the oil.

Totally agree. GW's marketing department are muppets. Sougi S6000 is quite possibly the best oil around after Motul 300V Chrono, yet it was bottled and labeled just like all their $5-10 plain vanilla 20w50 crap. Even still their cheap stuff is incredibly good, but the perception is that this is all the company makes. They make a whole range of incredible products. Their synthetic trans fluid is as good as Castrol Transmax for half the price. Sougi M5000, Syn-X are fantastic products as well.

At the end of the day however GW is a company who produce products to stock workshops, mechanics, the mining industry etc. The retail part of it is a joke and it shows. But it's not their main focus or from what Birds mentioned in the past a significant revenue earner.

I just did my oil change with this. feels the same as the 5w40 but $10 cheaper :)

That's awesome to hear :). And it came in a 5L, not 4L bottle right?

rehab, that is one oil I have in mind to try one day when my Sougi stocks run out. It looks decent to me, but after using HPR10 I was pretty much put off Penrite for good.

ahhh - I just did a check of my oil, and personally I don't think I'll be using Penrite ever again.

Oil after 800kms should not look all black and be smelling like its burning. I'm gonna drop that oil ASAP - try using something else. Car didn't use any oil but I'm not happy how it looks after such a short period, and this was with a filter change too

My oil pressures also goes up and down with this oil, not sure if its oil related, but when I start the car up oil pressure gauge sits around 6kg/cm2, and when I'm driivng its around 3, then goes around 2.5 - pretty low. When I'm on the gas it goes up to 4 or just under. Not sure if the gauge is stuffed, they are apparently known to be pretty inaccurate.

Reason why I got this Penrite Everyday 10W-40 was that it said fully synth and it was pretty cheap, 50bucks or bit less I think. Guess its definitely a case of "you get what you pay for" with this oil.

I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss the Penrite oil rehab. A good synthetic oil will turn black quickly, but it's not because it has broken down, it's most likely because the oil gave your engine a clean out that the previous oil didn't. I have no doubts this will be responsible for the burnt smell too. Oil pressure instability is also a characteristic of using low viscosity oils like the 10w40, it's no biggie. What you want to keep an eye out for is sludgy oil, rather than black...the former being a sign of it breaking down. RB engines produce a lot of carbon buildup too, so I think it's something you will find with all good oils.

Yeah the new Commodores and Falcons are, many specify a 10w30. But what I meant is that I wouldn't use something like a 10w60 in anything small displacement unless it's an absolute oil burner. It's much better used in, say, a Buick engined Commy of the 90's.

castrol edge 10w60 is the oil racepace use in EVERY rb... even new builds

castrol edge 10w60 is the oil racepace use in EVERY rb... even new builds

Not going to argue with their choice of oil because every application is different...for example, high HP engines need to sacrifice the benefits of low viscosity for the protection of a thicker oil and new builds are supposed to run-in on a heavy viscosity. But I sure don't believe in running the same uniform oil in every engine, even of the same type. No matter how good a workshop is with their speciality, it doesn't mean they get something like oil completely right. Evidence of this is that every good workshop will use a different oil to the other. I've seen plenty of it when I used to oil rep - oil is a speciality field in itself and not something a lot of mechanics take the time to learn about. I'm sure Athid would agree. And you'd be surprised how many workshops are using recycled oil just because it's cheap!

Yeah they frequently do it as a loss leader, i.e. Autobarn used to buy it for something like $7-8 a bottle and sell for $5, hence the limits on bottles per customer. They do it from time to time with the poverty oils from other brands too. You should try some Sougi on your next fill Hamish ;)

UOA completed for German Castrol 0w30

Before everyone jumps on it and says its too thin, the car never saw above 85degrees on water/oil, except one really hot day where I think it might have hit 90degrees.

post-13527-0-10940500-1300790513_thumb.jpg

You should try some Sougi on your next fill Hamish ;)

Oi, keep those last boxes for me Birds. lol.

How anyone can compare Sougi to the crap safeway and supercrap sell I don't know. GW have no idea how to market a product.

I see you finally found a test Gareth, how much did it cost?

I'm trying to keep them Scotty lol, they're lasting surprisingly long but slowly disappearing...would you believe a non-Stagea owner is buying some off me tonight :)

I see you finally found a test Gareth, how much did it cost?

I'm trying to keep them Scotty lol, they're lasting surprisingly long but slowly disappearing...would you believe a non-Stagea owner is buying some off me tonight :)

only because you forgot to bring them home last night.

I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss the Penrite oil rehab. A good synthetic oil will turn black quickly, but it's not because it has broken down, it's most likely because the oil gave your engine a clean out that the previous oil didn't. I have no doubts this will be responsible for the burnt smell too. Oil pressure instability is also a characteristic of using low viscosity oils like the 10w40, it's no biggie. What you want to keep an eye out for is sludgy oil, rather than black...the former being a sign of it breaking down. RB engines produce a lot of carbon buildup too, so I think it's something you will find with all good oils.

Well, now knowing that my gearbox had ATF in it I don't even wanna know what kind of oil was used in the engine. I'll drop the oil after 3,500kms and then keep a look on it. There is definitely no sludge build up that I can see, which is a good sign.

About Racepace using 10W-60 - I would compare that with race teams using 75W-140 in diffs instead of 75W-90 - racing and street driving are two different things. I'm sure 60 will do a great job for engines used for racing, but that doesn't mean you should use it in your daily driver.

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