Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Things like zinc additives do help add kind of a lubrication effect because of the "softness" of the way the zinc attaches to the engine parts, but this effect is dwarfed by the actual lubrication effect of the oil.

On the dark oil, birds said pretty much everything I thought of lol, he has a habit of that :P, but he's very right that it takes a tiny amount to stain the oil black, and that the oil absorbs the carbon into it's structure, the carbon can't really escape this to build up anywhere. The oil can take an awful lot of carbon before reaching saturation. It's not like once the oil is resting after a change the carbon all falls to the bottom of the container, it stays in the suspension because of the particular physical chemistry effects the designed additives have.

This is what Motul France recommends.

that is interesting that they recommend a 5w30.... motul aust recommend 5w40 for RB's

also the sump capacity is wrong. they state 4.5lt when it's 5.5

Haha Galois was waiting for your backup :P

Trying to find a clear cut answer on how much oil the gearbox takes is just as bad. In the end I just fill up oil until it's within the safe dipstick range, or in the case of gearbox and diff, fill up to the filler hole.

International recommendations = pointless. They are based on a completely different climate. France is cold as f***, it's no surprise they recommend something thin like that. Stick with the domestic arm if you're going to follow manufacturer recommendations.

International recommendations = pointless. They are based on a completely different climate. France is cold as f***, it's no surprise they recommend something thin like that. Stick with the domestic arm if you're going to follow manufacturer recommendations.

Haha beat me again, I have to be quicker

Hi Guys,

I like this thread but its toooooo long for me to find what i am looking for.

I have a R31 with an Rb30/25 setup. R33 manual box and Full spool Diff.

What grades/brandes of oil is recommended for my setup? My usage will be 50% track 50% street.

I currently run penrite but going through some of this thread i didn't see Penrite get much mention, i;m more than happy to try others. I am looking to buy in bulk as well.

Hi Guys,

I like this thread but its toooooo long for me to find what i am looking for.

I have a R31 with an Rb30/25 setup. R33 manual box and Full spool Diff.

What grades/brandes of oil is recommended for my setup? My usage will be 50% track 50% street.

I currently run penrite but going through some of this thread i didn't see Penrite get much mention, i;m more than happy to try others. I am looking to buy in bulk as well.

At least read the first post...

Hi Guys,

I like this thread but its toooooo long for me to find what i am looking for.

I have a R31 with an Rb30/25 setup. R33 manual box and Full spool Diff.

What grades/brandes of oil is recommended for my setup? My usage will be 50% track 50% street.

I currently run penrite but going through some of this thread i didn't see Penrite get much mention, i;m more than happy to try others. I am looking to buy in bulk as well.

Engine will most likely be the same as for everyone else. Likewise for gearbox, except not so much info on that. Go with the recommended penrite syn or castrol if you want cheaper and throw in a bottle of nulon g70 additive (or is it g90, i can't remember, one is the replacement for the other).

No idea on the diff.

There is a transmission and diff oils thread in the drivetrain section but it's not quite as qualified as this oils thread haha

I have been reading this threat for a while now and can't figure it out and I'm new to the turbo piston scene, I just got my 2001 r34 GTT basically stock and want to do an oil change but not quite sure on what oil to get? Any suggestions guys? It's got 63000kms on the clock, is 10/30 ok? Street driven but I have a heavy foot haha lol.

You can't have been reading that long mate, that engine/car has been discussed on pretty much every page of it. Read the previous couple of pages and you'll find it there.

good god i must have been reading this thread for about 2 hours. Might as well add my 2 cents i have been using Nulon 15W-50 (street and track performance) for a few oil changes now and it seems to be ok. I was thinking of giving Motul a go and after reading all the people bagging nulon i'm leaning more and more in this direction. I havn't really seen the 15W-50 mentioned everyone seems to use the 10W-40, i was told to use a 15W-50 by the mechanic at Chasers so thats what i did ending up at nulon because it was 15W-50 and 'synthetic' and reasonably priced. Plus its good to support local companies (so i'm told).....after reading all this though my opinion hasn't really changed, when next oil change is due i will check out price of Motul otherwise keep with the Nulon.

Are these more specialised mechanics/builders, or your average falcodore servicing guy?

I've had a few mechanics who may be competent at the regular cars but I'd never take something different there.

Edited by Galois

good god i must have been reading this thread for about 2 hours. Might as well add my 2 cents i have been using Nulon 15W-50 (street and track performance) for a few oil changes now and it seems to be ok. I was thinking of giving Motul a go and after reading all the people bagging nulon i'm leaning more and more in this direction. I havn't really seen the 15W-50 mentioned everyone seems to use the 10W-40, i was told to use a 15W-50 by the mechanic at Chasers so thats what i did ending up at nulon because it was 15W-50 and 'synthetic' and reasonably priced. Plus its good to support local companies (so i'm told).....after reading all this though my opinion hasn't really changed, when next oil change is due i will check out price of Motul otherwise keep with the Nulon.

10w40 is fine for most r34 gtt's but if yours has low kms you'd probably be right running a 10w30

i use the gulf western syn-x 3000 and have done for a while now, its good, its cheap but it just doesn't last as long as the sougi (motul 300v equivalent) did

but for $33/bottle you can't complain

its a 10w40 btw and i run it in a s2 stagea (rb25 neo with 108,000kms)

*then

Then what - just use it. Pretty sure 8100 only comes in 5W-40, I have it in my car now for just over 2,000kms and no problems. Car runs smoothly, oil has turned dark brownish, can't notice any issues. I'd recommend 8100, either one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...