Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Once my engine Is running at normal operating temperature, the 40 grade feels great...I wouldn't want to or need to go any thicker unless I was tracking the car. Engine temps are very consistent even after a thrashing. Again, it won't kill your engine to run a 10w60, but the 40 does feel smoother IMO.

Yes I would recommend Syn X 6000 for an RB26. I have been using this oil in my RB25 the last 5000-6000km and it's been good. Much the same feeling as Sougi 6000 had. About due for an OCD change, though there would be plenty of mileage left in it if someone wanted to stretch for the 10,000km.

Had some experience with Royal Purple API 10w40 oil, ran it for 11000km in my rb26 on a single shiite fram filter (noob mistake) and the oil was still light to mid brown, admittedly the motor was fresh but the oil was still relatively clean and the pressure was still 3.2 bar at warm idle, 4 bar cold. No oil analysis just my personal observation for what its worth. Currently running RP HPS 10w40 with a K&N gold HP2008 oil filter, car seems very happy.

I'm using Gulf Western Syn-X 6000 in my NM35 Stagea; I reckon is very similar to the Sougi S6000 that I was using previously.

$150 for a 20lt drum; what more can you ask for? Basically getting the 4th change for nothing.

before my local Autobarn stopped selling it, 8100 was around $80 / 5l.

I did a LOT of reading on oil before I did my first oil change in my new car - the Royal Purple seems to be good due to high levels of ZDDP in the HPS at least, however their marketing claims have been called out as BS numerous times on the BITOG forums. Also hard to find and pricey unless buying from a workshop.

before my local Autobarn stopped selling it, 8100 was around $80 / 5l.

I did a LOT of reading on oil before I did my first oil change in my new car - the Royal Purple seems to be good due to high levels of ZDDP in the HPS at least, however their marketing claims have been called out as BS numerous times on the BITOG forums. Also hard to find and pricey unless buying from a workshop.

Spotted RP on the shelves at Supercheap the other day

Must be everywhere now because this was in Launceston lol

Remember at the end of the day it is just oil, at $80 a change you could afford to replace your stock r32 motor every 37500kms instead.

Gotta weight up how much it is actually worth spending on oil.

before I did my first oil change in my new car

;)

Where the hell do you guys get the Syn-X 6000 from? Supershit/Autoshit/Repco doesn't stock it...

Prob a GW distributor?

http://www.gulfwestern.com.au/GW_nearest_stockist.html

not 100% accurate as i can get it in Tas but they don't list the people i use (Independent oils in Ulverstone)

Where the hell do you guys get the Syn-X 6000 from? Supershit/Autoshit/Repco doesn't stock it...

I live not too far from GW head office in the 'Riff.

You pay for it, & they make you go and get it of the racking in their warehouse...

Worth it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...