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I also read everything I could find when I got my R32 as well. Looking back I probably would have gone the Edge 10w60, as back then it was $60/5l and every auto parts shop in town sells it.

Preventative is better than curative maintenance IMO.

I have noticed a trend of sales types pushing the new Penrite range, but everything I've read on them suggests them to still be fairly crappy oils. Awaiting the results of a Filtergram on the LS1.com.au thread.

my point is that you can't base an opinion on two oil companies when you have changed viscosities like that.

edge 10w60 is much thicker and is used in many RB's that get tracked due to this and it's ability to withstand heat/ethanol

a thinner oil will always alow the engine to rev more freely

try some motul 300v 20w60 and i'm sure you'll find it similar if not identical to the edge 10w60 (not so much so on startup)

depends on how you use your car as to what is actually going to suit your needs.

they are both great products at the end of the day (i have used both and will continue to do so depending on what i'm doing and in what car)

as a side note i agree with you that motul > castrol, although that's not my point here

Just listen to me use castrol edge and maybe u guys wouldn't spin so many bearings using stupid oils like 5/30

HAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAH

Yeh if everyone were you, we'd be melting pistons due to insufficient fuel pumps in our cars oh and not getting a tune when we have put a different engine into a car.

Just listen to me use castrol edge and maybe u guys wouldn't spin so many bearings using stupid oils like 5/30

A testament to Castrol Edge 10w60 being invincible:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/46581-report-that-engine-failure/page__view__findpost__p__3569073

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/46581-report-that-engine-failure/page__view__findpost__p__3052899

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/46581-report-that-engine-failure/page__view__findpost__p__3052783

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/46581-report-that-engine-failure/page__view__findpost__p__2311005

Doesn't matter what oil you use, you can and will spin a bearing. It's oil starvation and oil surge (also negligent owners) that kills RBs, not oil choices.

I failed to find an engine failure reported that they used a 5w30 oil, I'd like to know what ass that was pulled from.

A testament to Castrol Edge 10w60 being invincible:

http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__3569073

http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__3052899

http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__3052783

http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__2311005

Doesn't matter what oil you use, you can and will spin a bearing. It's oil starvation and oil surge (also negligent owners) that kills RBs, not oil choices.

I failed to find an engine failure reported that they used a 5w30 oil, I'd like to know what ass that was pulled from.

Unless I'm missing something, none of those examples relate to bearing failure that could be attributed to the oil.

Edited by BuuBox

Unless I'm missing something, none of those examples relate to bearing failure that could be attributed to the oil.

That's exactly right, they were using Castrol Edge and it still happened. But then again the person I quoted originally has blown up 3 or so RB's.

Moodles2: catastrophic engine failure caused by over revving / oil pump failure is largely irrelevant to an oil discussion IMO, unless you're trying to say that one particular brand had such a strong film strength that it held the engine together for the time taken to turn it off etc etc.

UOAs / Filtergrams are where it's at for actual empirical evidence.

Viscosity is another debate in itself, I ended up with a sore head from reading the endless debates on BITOG about thick vs thin viscosity etc

The problem with recommending a 10w60 where the manufacturer recommends a 7.5w30 is the problem I have with Edge 10w60 (the fact there have been so few engine failures reported is a good sign with this oil). It's a known fact an unopened RB motor will fill the head with oil due to head design (oil restrictors too big, higher flowing pump etc), the problem is getting the oil to drain back to the sump via the factory 8mm drains. The thicker w60 hot rating will naturally take longer to drain than a w40 oil which is generally recommended.

Edge may have some super properties or whatever, the point is it's going to get trapped in the head and have a hard time draining back to the sump in time, while the engine will be lubricated by nothing aka oil starvation. This shouldn't be a problem daily driving, but it will be a problem at the track or hard driving (high load/high rpm). The solution is smaller oil restrictors, enlarged oil drains (9mm to 10mm) etc

So in short, someone might read this thread with an unopened engine and think "oh edge 10w60 is recommended by this dude, sounds like the perfect oil to hit the track with" then come home with a blown engine.

I got a hold of some Gulf Western Syn-X 6000 5w40 in Sydney. Got it directly from Gulf Western. (should be on the shelves over the next few weeks)

First impressions are very good. Engine feels nice and smooth. Revs freely. No strange noises.

Oil pressure looks good. 2bar at idle. Around 4+bar on cold start. Pressure builds nicely under load.

I came from using Motul 8100 5w40 for years, which costs much more, and I've got to say, so far (early days yet) I am happier with the GW.

If the Syn-X 6000 performs this well for the next 5000kms, I'll be using it from here on.

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