Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^The purple doesn't last long. Turns brown as it oxidizes :P

Have used Nulon 10w-40, Motul 8100 X-Max 10w-40, Royal Purple Synerlec SL, API and HPS 10w-40 and now Penrite Racing 10w-40.

All these oils we used for 2 or more oil changes cos I want to see if there were any benefits.

No discernible performance difference. Engine ran the same.

The only thing I noticed was that the Nulon at 5000km became a lot thicker whereas the other oils stay nice and fluid at cold temperatures.

The old adage "you do get what you pay for" doesn't always apply to all things especially engine oil but in this instance, it was enough for me to move away from the product.

Look to be honest Royal Purple is the best oil I have ever used so far, it craps over Motul IMO, engine ran so much smoother, quieter.

Only reason why I am changing is due to the price, it was ok before the price hike at $90 a bottle, then it went up to $110 and now almost $130 and for something that you're just gonna dump every 5000kms average 6 months its a waste.

Look to be honest Royal Purple is the best oil I have ever used so far, it craps over Motul IMO, engine ran so much smoother, quieter.

Only reason why I am changing is due to the price, it was ok before the price hike at $90 a bottle, then it went up to $110 and now almost $130 and for something that you're just gonna dump every 5000kms average 6 months its a waste.

Couldn't agree more, royal purple has been my choice of oil for over 4yrs, but I would like to give hpr15 a shot

Couldn't agree more, royal purple has been my choice of oil for over 4yrs, but I would like to give hpr15 a shot

Err, HPR15 is one level cheaper than Royal Purple. If you want an equivalent, get one from the Racing (formerly SIN) range.

Okay, oil done... My oil pressure is now lower than normal?? It used to sit just under 4 in stock 32 gtst gauge.. Now sits under 2... And both drop when car gets warmer obviously..

Probably the oil pressure switch thing. My car does the same sometimes.

  • Like 1

Confused if I should go with Penrite Racing 10 10-40w or Penrite Racing 15 15-50w, Car has 81000kms on the clock with just the first stage mods, intake, front mount, exhaust, 12psi, power fc 211rwkw, thanks.

Depends on what you do with it, if you daily drive it 10-40 will be great, if you flog it for hours or track it go the 15-50, in this 40c weather the 50 would be better even for daily driving but it doesn't last more than a month or so so 40 I would still put in.

Edited by Rolls

Okay, oil done... My oil pressure is now lower than normal?? It used to sit just under 4 in stock 32 gtst gauge.. Now sits under 2... And both drop when car gets warmer obviously..

i had this issue when i trialled mobil1 few years back, engine was bit noiser on startup as well iirc, switched back to royal purple 10w-40 and all was good again, dont recall which weight mobil1 i tested though

Quick question.

Got a mate (R33 GTS-t) who needs an oil change, he has a spare bottle of 0w40 in the garage.

is this going to cause any damage if he puts it in knowing it's getting up around 38 degrees in Canberra?

Okay, oil done... My oil pressure is now lower than normal?? It used to sit just under 4 in stock 32 gtst gauge.. Now sits under 2... And both drop when car gets warmer obviously..

In the manual it says to check oil pressure by removing the sender unit and to connect an after-market pressure gauge, and test on a warm engine...

RB20DET

@ 600 rpm pressure should be 1 kg/cm2

@2000 rpm pressure should be 3 kg/cm2

@6000 rpm pressure should be 4 kg/cm2

and the do say these are approximate readings.

In the manual it says to check oil pressure by removing the sender unit and to connect an after-market pressure gauge, and test on a warm engine...

RB20DET

@ 600 rpm pressure should be 1 kg/cm2

@2000 rpm pressure should be 3 kg/cm2

@6000 rpm pressure should be 4 kg/cm2

and the do say these are approximate readings.

Uhhh, okay.

Well I don't know where the sensor unit is..

And I have a Defi oil pressure gauge, not installed though..

My oil pressure doesn't change at all with RPM?

Only drops once and that's when the car is warmed up..

Quick question.

Got a mate (R33 GTS-t) who needs an oil change, he has a spare bottle of 0w40 in the garage.

is this going to cause any damage if he puts it in knowing it's getting up around 38 degrees in Canberra?

Nope it's fine. Only issue I can see is that there might be light oil burning when cold, if the motor is worn.

Well if you want peace of mind then you might just have to book it into a service centre to have it checked properly.

Yeah, looks like I might have to.. Bleh

I hate paying labour costs :(

Plus find all other things wrong with it lol..

hey guys just wondering what oil weight you would recommend for a fully built rb25 its oil change time and i was gonna go with redline 15-40w i have been using castrol edge titanium 10w60 but someone suggested this isnt a good weight for goldcoast during summer? i know this has probably been covered in the previous 152 pages but i dont have time to trawl and ive done a few searches but not really answered my question. so i thought i would get some opinions

anyways cheers for any replies

Edit: i should add it is daily driven (not very far a lazy 10 min drive) and if it were ever to go to a trackday i would change to something recommended for the track.

Edited by Nii San

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
    • To be fair it's the other way around. 300kw is boring in a modern Golf or BMW. They are so competent / well-engineered / devoid of emotion that you have to go stupid fast to feel anything. Whereas the <300kw RB still makes all the right noises and it feels good to drive. Can pull off at the lights with the turbo whooshing and the blow-off pssshing and feel like the coolest kid on the block. Just don't look to the side where you'll see the bored housewifes in their shitbox Yaris/Corolla/Camry that kept up because you didn't go fast at all
    • 300kW is so boring in a Skyline, you'll get spanked by someone's mum's Golf with Alibaba pipes, and an email tune.
×
×
  • Create New...