Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

is 300v chrono motul 10w40 is good for nissan v35 coupe 04? Or how is it compared to amsoil 10w40? just about to do my 10.000kms service, changing oil and oil filter.<div><br></div><div> </div>

is 300v chrono motul 10w40 is good for nissan v35 coupe 04? Or how is it compared to amsoil 10w40? just about to do my 10.000kms service, changing oil and oil filter.<div><br></div><div> </div>

It is poor value for money, put the extra money towards a turbo upgrade, new bushes, new brake pads, new anything really. Even if you are tracking the car it isn't worth it, just get 8100 or one of the other comparable oils.

For the money some of you guys spend on oil you could just buy a new engine every 5 years.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys,

I've been running Motul 8100 5w40 Oil for the last few years.

Recently I have been attended a few 'spirited' cruises and have noticed the oil temp jump to 120 degrees. Normally it is around 90 degrees. Ambient temp outside would have been around 20 day/night.

Are there consequences on the engine in the oil running this hot?

I have been told to run a higher weight i.e. 5w50?

Car is a 200rwkw GT-T with about 150,000km's.

:cheers:

  • 2 weeks later...

We really need a super moderator / oil expert to sift through all the crap here and cut down this 100+ thread. One page at the start recommending SAU's most used oils for summer.

something like:

For track work we recommend: RP 15w-60, or Redline RACE (~$100)

for daily use/light track work: motul or chrono 300 ($90) or mobile 1 ($80)

daily: penrite 10w 40 ($55) / mobil 1 ($80)

(i'm just using the above as an example not that i recommend the actual brands or know the specific prices)

Oil is so damn confusing, IS it worth shelling out $100 for 4 litres for Redline/RP. Given that you need 2 bottles to do a full change and a filter that makes it a +$200 job for a damn oil change! Like someone said earlier after a few years you could buy a whole new engine!

Is a $100 bottle of 10w 40 full synthetic justifiably better than a $55 bottle of full synthetic? Will our old RB's really be able to see the difference?

can the

Oil is so damn confusing, IS it worth shelling out $100 for 4 litres for Redline/RP. Given that you need 2 bottles to do a full change and a filter that makes it a +$200 job for a damn oil change! Like someone said earlier after a few years you could buy a whole new engine!

It is simple, if you can afford a new motor for the price of your oil, then don't do it lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...