Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Neither was Sougi's customer base, so don't stress yourself buddy...this is simply discussion between Sougi fans :)

I guess my point was there are plenty of oils for similar prices that will cause your engines zero harm.

Off the topic of Sougi has anyone tried using Mainlube products? A lot of racing teams swear by it and some very high end industrial players also use it in their industrial machinery (bhp and several mining companies) Doesn't sound cheap around $300 to change your engine, diff and gbox oil but if you get their filtergram tests done regularly they say it should last up to 20,000kms in a daily driver

I guess my point was there are plenty of oils for similar prices that will cause your engines zero harm.

a 300v equivalent for $60

there is nothing else that performs this well for that sort of price

http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Full_Synt...ing_Engine_Oil/

What's the go on this stuff? I remember reading back in this thread somewhere about Nulon fully synth oils not actually being 100%....but this one SAYS 100%. "Fully Synthetic" only needs to be 75% synth or something.

I'll probs be giving it a shot when I receive my magnetic sump plug from Phil's group buy...

a 300v equivalent for $60

there is nothing else that performs this well for that sort of price

that is like saying you need a 100hp motor to drive you to work so you get a 1000hp motor which they stop producing, then complain that the closest motor for the same price is only 900hp, end of the day both are massive overkill and the difference will be completely 100% undetectable for your uses.

http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Full_Synt...ing_Engine_Oil/

What's the go on this stuff? I remember reading back in this thread somewhere about Nulon fully synth oils not actually being 100%....but this one SAYS 100%. "Fully Synthetic" only needs to be 75% synth or something.

I'll probs be giving it a shot when I receive my magnetic sump plug from Phil's group buy...

Regularly covered in this thread mate. In the 90's (I think) some company (Castrol?) won a case in court that the processing of the oil required to get to grade 3 is enough to be called fully synthetic. PAO bases oil is grade 4, and the first truly synthetic grade. Grade 5 is synthetic double-ester.

massive overkill and the difference will be completely 100% undetectable for your uses.

Agreed that it's overkill and possibly unnecessary, but there's certainly no harm in using the best product available.

It also lasts a lot longer before breaking down...

It was the only grade 5 I could find that clearly stated "suitable for Ethanol and Methanol" and it felt velvety smooth in the engine just like 300v.

And at a grade 3 price? I wasnt complaining but I am now... :P

Any news on the replacement Birds, if you don't hassle them I will...

Regularly covered in this thread mate. In the 90's (I think) some company (Castrol?) won a case in court that the processing of the oil required to get to grade 3 is enough to be called fully synthetic. PAO bases oil is grade 4, and the first truly synthetic grade. Grade 5 is synthetic double-ester.

I know it was covered, but I don't think it applies entirely to what I'm reading there.

The current legislation as I'm led to believe is something along the lines of 75% minimum can be marketed at fully.

Since I read Nulon was doing this at some stage, I wanted to confirm that if they're now labeling this oil as 100% synthetic, is it actually 100%? Surely 100% and "fully" aren't the same thing, so if you're going to claim 100% is has to be 100%...right?

It's always had 100% synthetic written on it, at least it did a year ago when I last bought it. The article I read on the terminology is in this thread somewhere, lol but I'd have a quick go at google first.

Unless it has been changed without being heavily publicised or mentioned here somewhere, anyone know anything on this? Birds???

Since I read Nulon was doing this at some stage, I wanted to confirm that if they're now labeling this oil as 100% synthetic, is it actually 100%? Surely 100% and "fully" aren't the same thing, so if you're going to claim 100% is has to be 100%...right?

All about marketing: http://www.1st-in-synthetics.com/is_your_s...y_synthetic.htm

I'll just quote the relevant paragraph. Pretty much describes the North American market and how they are allowed to market a blended Group III oil as synthetic

Last year, Castrol (Swingdon, U.K.) and Mobil (Fairfax, VA) brought the debate over what is “synthetic” into view, as Mobil challenged Castrol’s replacement of polyalphaolephins (PAOs) with hydroisomerized waxes in their synthetic formulations. Exactly one year after the National Advertising Division (NAD) of the Council of Better Business Bureaus’ ruling in April 1999, upholding Castrol’s position that wax isomerates could be called synthetic, Petro-Canada (Toronto) advertised it would be referring to its very high viscosity index (VHVI) basestocks as a synthetic in the North American market. These products fall into the same API group (Group III) as wax isomerates, but could vary significantly in quality from wax isomerates. This market roar by Petro-Canada has carried a quiet undertone of moves from PAO to VHVI technology by several engine oil marketers.

Nah don't know anything on it Galois...I'm not heavily at the forefront of the oil industry I'm just a distributor hehe.

It was the only grade 5 I could find that clearly stated "suitable for Ethanol and Methanol" and it felt velvety smooth in the engine just like 300v.

And at a grade 3 price? I wasnt complaining but I am now... :)

Any news on the replacement Birds, if you don't hassle them I will...

Here we go, this is good reason to have Sougi...it may well have had it's own little niche amongst eth-heads. But I'm tipping more eth compatible oils will be developed as ethanol becomes more popular. In the mean time, do we know if M5000 is compatible with eth too?

By all means hassle them mate, I suspect Syn-X is actually it's replacement. I don't expect an exact replacement for Sougi, it defeats the point of scrapping the oil in the first place...they'll just have a product like Syn-X that can be marketed more widely and for cheaper.

All about marketing: http://www.1st-in-synthetics.com/is_your_s...y_synthetic.htm

I'll just quote the relevant paragraph. Pretty much describes the North American market and how they are allowed to market a blended Group III oil as synthetic

Last year, Castrol (Swingdon, U.K.) and Mobil (Fairfax, VA) brought the debate over what is “synthetic” into view, as Mobil challenged Castrol’s replacement of polyalphaolephins (PAOs) with hydroisomerized waxes in their synthetic formulations. Exactly one year after the National Advertising Division (NAD) of the Council of Better Business Bureaus’ ruling in April 1999, upholding Castrol’s position that wax isomerates could be called synthetic, Petro-Canada (Toronto) advertised it would be referring to its very high viscosity index (VHVI) basestocks as a synthetic in the North American market. These products fall into the same API group (Group III) as wax isomerates, but could vary significantly in quality from wax isomerates. This market roar by Petro-Canada has carried a quiet undertone of moves from PAO to VHVI technology by several engine oil marketers.

Moodles to the rescue

ah fair enough....that being said, it's surely couldn't be a bad choice for $65 (before trade discount booya)?

Birds, am I right to assume the S in the naming scheme meant Synthetic, therefore the M will mean Mineral?

$65 for a grade III/IV mix is pretty expensive, given that there are similar oils for a lot less, including m5000 for ~$30 per 5L bottle (actually the m5000 is a group III/V mix so it's actually higher quality oil. It also has heaps of detergents and good stuffs mixed in just like s6000).

For all those members that like to use Motul 8100 X-cess 5W40: Repco catalogue has this oil at $59.99 for 5 litres. Apparently store stock only or 14th November, which ever ends first.

Edited by johnd320
I was in local Repco today getting 2 stroke mix oil for my lawnmower and X-Cess was still $69 or $79 (one or the other)

Before I posted the Motul deal I checked Repco's online catalogue. The quoted $59.99 for 5 litres of Motul 8100 X-cess 5W40 is in their current catalogue. Google is your friend.

What's the Syn-X like? You're still a lot closer to the industry than most of us!! haha

Haven't tried it in my own vehicle so can't comment from experience...might give it a go next change if you want me to test it out. Alot of my customers (workshops) love Syn-X because it does almost everything 90's onwards and costs about the same as a mineral oil.

Yes trozzle I do believe the M is for mineral and S for synthetic. And Sougi is apparently some Japanese lingo meaning "super" or "fantastic" lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...