Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The 30 day thing you would have read about is someone applying for their CAMS license. They take a while to get it back to you, and there is a 30 day temp license you can ask for, which we can sign off on on the day. That license can be used at pretty much any motoring event.

The AASA license can be issued on the day for $50.

So two different licenses for 2 different reasons. If you plan on doing a lot of different events this year, then the more expensive L2S (CAMS) license is for you. Otherwise, go with the simplicity of the AASA license :)

Don't worry about looking like a noob, it's important that you get it all right :whistling:

  • Replies 329
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

IS the Wakefield license the same as the AASA?

Same company, you can use the license you buy on the day at wakefield, but I don't know if you can use the wakefield license at our event. Will have to have someone check that.

I will be making every effort to get to this event. It was awesome last time.

If it is ok my brother would love to run his Toyota IS 200 which may be finished in time.

Tim.

Yes.

Can you put me on the list. Thanks

I'll do a proper list with paid entrants once we get the payment details up. Should be soon.

I'm in for this. However, being a noob non-member who doesn't drive a Skyline, I'll gladly sit on the bench and wait until you guys open it up to non-members/other marques. I just hope the old Sube isn't too slow out there.

PS: Hi Xmetal :O

Same company, you can use the license you buy on the day at wakefield, but I don't know if you can use the wakefield license at our event. Will have to have someone check that.

Just spoke to the AASA office at Winton, Wakefield Licences will be fine.

Huzzah!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...