Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

AWESOME Andrew!!! :ninja:

Have you thought about Targa? Decided to enter Rookie to see if you can win modern to get the full entry for 2010 or just goin the whole hog?

Yep I'm looking at this Wrestpoint Rally, Targa Rookie and hopefully Mt Buller for 2009. Not sure about trying to win the Rookie however since neither me nor my nav have any Tarmac Rally experience so really we are just going out to learn what it is about and to have some fun and most importantly bringing home the car in one piece next year.

I'll probably be getting in your ear a bit over the next few months though as I try to sort all of this stuff out. Even this entry form looks daunting :P

Are you using the blue car? Be interested to see what you needed to do, full cage and all the other bits and pieces.

Yep using the Blue car. Already have been down to see Toby at Merridian to sort all of the safety / other generally rally stuff out (car will be down there in the next month or so to get it all done) and have also chatted to Benno about what I need to do to bring the car in-line with Rally regs which will all be done when I fix the diff. It's actually not so bad these days with the AASA rules (given things like oil coolers and radiators are much easier now).

So.....Wrest Point - im keen as mustard!

And for $2k you cant really go wrong given the amount of K's driven

EDIT: I rang the number on the bottom of the email to find out the exact rules regarding cages - does anyone here know 100% what the rules will be? I have a bolt in half cage sitting here i can put in, not really looking to get a full weld in cage

Ok, ill have a look at what they cost and weigh it up :P

Helen came and asked me about half cages and R32 GTRs so putting two and two together she will call in the morning suggesting a CAMS approved Bond bolt-in system... allow $1200 for R32 kit. They are pre-fab and generally in stock ready to freight. No cutting trim required even with side intrusion so no real resale killer.

For a decent weld-in allow atleast $3500.

you're 3.0L motor isn't going to be all that legal either mate btw.....

:(

Helen came and asked me about half cages and R32 GTRs so putting two and two together she will call in the morning suggesting a CAMS approved Bond bolt-in system... allow $1200 for R32 kit. They are pre-fab and generally in stock ready to freight. No cutting trim required even with side intrusion so no real resale killer.

For a decent weld-in allow atleast $3500.

Ok so thats a definate on the full cage....

Hahaha, thanks for that ill mention i spoke to you when she calls back :D

As Snowy said, ive got an rb30 bottom end, so it looks like i cant enter anyway - unless there's a class for people who just want to have fun and dont take it as seriously as the guys at the pointy end of the field?

Cheers :)

there is steve, mt buller sprint. its a drag race up the hill, about 8minute run and you get a heap of passes over 2 days. It doesn't run under these regs and allows more modified cars.

cool, helen is good value.

funny you should mention that... for 2009 with targa tasmania and targa wrest point we are introducting a class that will allow people to compete with modifications outside the tollerence of the technical regs.

providing cars meet all the safety requirments eg. cage, belts, kill switch etc you can run all stages at unrestricted pace, compete for a targa trophy, but not be classified under the final results.

That sounds like a good class :D

So in this proposed class for example, you would allow single turbo conversions on GTR's, Rb30 bottom ends, different gearboxes etc - that kind of thing? Or less mods than those :blink:

Looks like ill have to wait another year

cool, helen is good value.

funny you should mention that... for 2009 with targa tasmania and targa wrest point we are introducting a class that will allow people to compete with modifications outside the tollerence of the technical regs.

providing cars meet all the safety requirments eg. cage, belts, kill switch etc you can run all stages at unrestricted pace, compete for a targa trophy, but not be classified under the final results.

Good news! Be keen to see what these rules entail Stu.

So in this proposed class for example, you would allow single turbo conversions on GTR's, Rb30 bottom ends, different gearboxes etc - that kind of thing? Or less mods than those :blink:

And you'd want to drive that through the trees without a cage....

You're pretty special Sunshine :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...