Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just jap sell these. buy it through them on here, you'll get a good price.

i had one of these. they are ceramic inside. good price, average performance. they dont compare to a proper stainless internal high flow.

Edited by Munkyb0y

in my old r33 gtst and 32 gtr i cut the sensors off cause i couldnt get it out of the stock cat lol.

causes no damage if thats what your asking.

the way i see it (since they werent built track/race cars), i dont need a sensor to tell me my exhaust is hot lol

mmm my exhaust sensor wire got cut a while ago, the light in the dash came up and the check engine light eventually came up too. I've heard it doesnt affect anything but the lights in the dash annoy me and i want to get it fixed.

I'm hoping i just need the wires soldered together.

that isn't xforces high flow model, tho it does flow pretty good. it is a ceramic core

there is a higher flow metallic item, which flows upwards and over 800cfm depending on size

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fo...nc-t206716.html

Edited by Angus Smart

I was very dissapointed in mine, going from a gutted cat to this, because I have a white car and the carbon monoxide that normally gets filtered by the cat was turning my rear bar yellow that I had to keep cleaning off...

I used it for 20 mins, car was jerky and laggy, now have it sitting in my room... Im going to spend the cash and get a proper high flow metal cat....

It does well for me. Very noticable upgrade over a standand cat (which i had on with my turbo upgrade)

I was looking for a metal cat but wanted one bolt on and couldnt find one, so i went with the Xforce, and it still did me well :) A lot less lag and generally more power throughout the whole rev range

how can you tell if it's a metal cat? stainless steel exterior?

metal cat, the brand?

or just a metallic cat in general?

a metallic cat has a metallic core inside, instead of ceramic.

looks something like this

post-29392-1216302153_thumb.jpg

Edited by Munkyb0y

I just upgraded my exhaust to an xforce system... noticable difference over stock lol... as for cat i havent used a metal cat so have nothing to compare it too.

Although the temp sensor didn't fit into the cat!!!! I had to take it to a chop shop for them to drill out the stainless steel hole a little wider then it screwed in nicley lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...