Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry to ask a question that’s been done to death, but after doing all the research I could I still can’t come up with a definitive answer about what type of oil I should be using.

This is my first car and I’ve only had it for about a month, so I’m about as uninformed as they come.

-My car is a pretty much stock R33 GTS25-t Sedan.

-It’s done just over 100,000 k and the engine seems to be in pretty decent condition.

-I don’t use it on tracks and rarely ever push it above 4000rpm

-I’m currently using it for 30k trips to & from work 5 days a week, other than that I mostly use it for quick 5-10 minute trips.

-I live in Perth, so the lowest the temp gets to here is about 1 or 2 degrees on a winter morning.

I was about to go and buy some Mobil 1 5w50 but a bit more reading told me that I’m probably better off with Mobil 1 0w40 or 10w30, seeing as I don’t use it on tracks or anything. If recommended I’m willing to fork out a bit more for some Royal Purple or something, but it apparently that would be slight overkill for how I use my car.

Any advice would be awesome. Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229471-another-which-oil-topic/
Share on other sites

from what I've been told by my mechanic whome I trust (unigroup) 10W40 is the right viscosity for a R34 GTT with 64k ... which is pretty similar to your car.

They reckon all the brand name fuss is a lot of nonsense and if you change the oil every 5000k it really doesn't matter which brand .. they use 'Hi-tec' which I believe is a local brand.

from what I've been told by my mechanic whome I trust (unigroup) 10W40 is the right viscosity for a R34 GTT with 64k ... which is pretty similar to your car.

They reckon all the brand name fuss is a lot of nonsense and if you change the oil every 5000k it really doesn't matter which brand .. they use 'Hi-tec' which I believe is a local brand.

I agree that if its for street driving (at low to mid rpm) cheap oil is an ok option as long as you are doing changes every 5k and no more! If you do ever decide you want to track it (or drive on the freeway in 2nd) don't go cheap on oil as you want something thats not going to break down at high engine temps.

I would say tho try and stick with fully synthetics and a 10w40 would be a quite adequate weight for street driving although i personally go 5w50 (mobil 1 fully synthetic) But i do use it on the track...i also over fill by about 500ml to try and stop potential starvation at high rpm/fast cornering.

Cheers

Cam

You won't go wrong with:

Brand - any name brand ie Mobil, Shell, Castrol, etc

Type - Full Synthetic

API rating - SJ (minimum, current is SM)

SAE (Grade): First digits (for starting) - 0W, 5W, 10W / Last Digits (for running) - 40

For a skyline ................Semi Synthetic is better than full synthetic....

Were are talking about motor that are 12yr +...............

Unless you have a forged motor

then we are talking different

Arrg so many differring recommendations/opinions. :blink:

I was sure that fully synthetic was definitely the way to go... but now i'm told semi-synthetic?

As for viscosity, I'm now looking at 10w40. Is that a good choice for an RB25DET engine that's gone 100,000k?

Arrg so many differring recommendations/opinions. :thumbsup:

it's simple, just use <your favourite brand here> oil.

seriously, any good quality full synthetic oil will do great. the minor differences are probably all in your head, the only consistent thing i notice is that the car seems to run nicer on FRESH oil.

Tried Motul, ELF, Nulon, Mobil 1 etc... the only thing better than any of these would be an oil that reverses the wear on your engine and that ain't happening! :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thank you, 100% the intent. New coils were due and the 17" sixers look/feel loads better than the stock wheels. The aero options are so spot on.   Thanks for the warm welcome, all!
    • 98 r34 gtt Been rocking my latest setup and car running like never before. Have put a good 200 miles on it since all the latest changes and additions. everything is dialed in and have been driving it a bunch.   However, all a sudden last weekend as soon as I pushed throttle passed 4k and the engine stumbles, (slow or fast acceleration) hesitates and doesn’t go above 4100 or so, like a misfire. Everything else seems fine. I had a “good” set of coil packs that I removed from car when I first got it when I changed them over to new coils. I swapped out current ones for those, but no change. I also changed the plugs, no change. Seems to rev over 4 when out of gear with no load just fine no “misfire”, but as soon as its in gear with a load of any kind, it “misfires” as soon as rpm drop back below 4 k it runs perfectly, smooth, starts, restarts and drives fine as long as I keep it below 4 k while in gear. All readings look fine, no CEL   Any idea as to what could all a sudden cause an issue when pushing rpms passed 4 k?
    • When you say your cams are 272/262 is that 272in and 262ex?
    • We're arguing semantics. I am saying 45 accel and a 55 deccel ramp are "2 ways". Even a 45 degree ramp and an 89 degree ramp is "2 ways", because it is literally... two ways. The cusco 55/30 ramp is a 2 way. It's two ways. I get it though - in normal nomenclature a "2 way" would be 45/45 or 55/55 or 60/60 i.e the same locking in both directions. And something like 45/65 would be considered "1.5 way". I would then say if we're getting into the nitty gritty then every locking diff is a "2 way" diff and we should not speak in 1.5, or 2 ways but ramp angles instead. Which ofc if one of those ramp angles is 90deg, that side is not doing any locking. :p So Nismo don't obviously sell 3 things. The fact of the matter that they only sell two items really goes to show that there's a 2 way and a "1,5 way" which is really a 1 way. I believe the actual lockup for the 'adjustability' of the GT pro is really just setting preload for when the ramps actually start locking up. It's not changing how much 'wayness' there is. It is (somehow) horribly explained. People just buy whatever diff and go "locks up good bruh" and that's what ends up on socials forever.  
×
×
  • Create New...