Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

on our application we were running internally gated HKS turbo's so no chance of changing the spring as they are sealed units.

The best and only option for us and many others was to invest in a decent controller...the Blitz ID-III is the best on the market in my opinion.

Even though I have a Blitz ID-III myself I also think the Turbosmart e-boost is also an excellent EBC.

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

how much is this boost controller? it looks nice :D

Have one Spec R sitting here on the desk for $560 courtesy of a certain well known J shop starting with N - but now I feel a dill when I realised who asked the question. How many you have on the shelf? :D

Edited by WRRR
maybe its a RB in a 180? people do some interesting things with nissans these days

NO WAY who would do such a thing thats absolutely obscene

Any Blitz dual solenoid in my experience works the best (gain wise), i have plenty of graphs i could post up but i rate the boost controllers as follows;

1. BLITZ dual solenoid (type R, ID, IDIII or I-color) But i find the i-color is a bit too gadgety.

2. Gizzmo MSIBC (black with blue display) (awesome controller with closed loop boost control and cheap)

3. TRUST Profec b SPEC 2 (great controller, easy to set up)

one old controller i like which is no longer sold anymore is the Greddy Type S wats your thoughts on these?

the ID3 is a fantastic controller and can bring boost on alot sooner than most gotta love its self learn mode

IDIII's a good bita kit eh :(

Only last week I heard a story about a SVI RX7 with upgraded hi flows, simultaneous mod, inj, pump reg, blah take 3 WOT pulls to achieve near ruler flat boost control and ~285rwkw's.

Its been around for years, I'm surprised... others still get surprised ;)

Good work Trent for taking the time.

Edited by GeeTR

Great read and interesting results but how would this compare to a twin setup?

My car currently have a HKS EVC version III which is set to just under 1bar and made 235awkw. I am in the market for a new boost controller and was about to buy the powerfc kit as i like its ability to run without an extra module in the cabin (less chance of being picked on by police)

Now if the results are that drastic then i will be going a different direction and probably just get it installed in the glovebox.

Anyways, i will be doing this same test as i have just installed an apexi pod filter kit and would like to have another dyno run once i get a new EBC.

Great read and interesting results but how would this compare to a twin setup?

My car currently have a HKS EVC version III which is set to just under 1bar and made 235awkw. I am in the market for a new boost controller and was about to buy the powerfc kit as i like its ability to run without an extra module in the cabin (less chance of being picked on by police)

Now if the results are that drastic then i will be going a different direction and probably just get it installed in the glovebox.

Anyways, i will be doing this same test as i have just installed an apexi pod filter kit and would like to have another dyno run once i get a new EBC.

honestley the blitz boost controller really comes into its own in twin applications, im sure there are a few guys on here with crazy GTR's who will back me up (dirt garage for one).

Wait.

The PowerFC boost controller has a gain setting. I know it's not the best, but I'm using one with my stock turbo and it makes 16psi at 2900rpm in 4th if the gain is set agressively. Can't be that bad. (Sorry. This is on an SR20)

Edited by Equinox
Wait.

The PowerFC boost controller has a gain setting. I know it's not the best, but I'm using one with my stock turbo and it makes 16psi at 2900rpm in 4th if the gain is set agressively. Can't be that bad. (Sorry. This is on an SR20)

no it only has a duty cycle setting....

as for being an sr20 all pfc boost controllers are the same see attched SR20 screen grab.

post-34927-1217322136_thumb.jpg

Wouldnt you say that the result is due to the dual solonoid?

Damn lucky I run this setup :)

Edit = was running and its already been mentioned.

Edited by DECIM8
Wouldnt you say that the result is due to the dual solonoid?

Damn lucky I run this setup :huh:

yes on some cars, esecially twins the table flat boost control is due to the fact it has double the resolution compared to a single solenoid. (mind you if the gate setup is good a single solenoid will easily suffice) the DSBC just allows more scope to adjust an unruly gate :) a nd still maintain a nice flat curve. (there are cases though that no controller can fix a boost drop or creep if it is of mechanical origin... too small a gate etc..)

the extra response is more a product of software programming and i can only assume is the fact that opening two valves at once allows you to hold out to the last possible moemnt yet still pass the required volume through to the gate/gates without spiking.

i dont want to get into a blitz is best type argument as the whole point of my post was merely to prove that a properly setup EBC can gain you quite a LOT of extra FREE power

Software and closed loop control aspects aside, the type of boost control valve used would make a difference i assume. Dual solenoid seems to work well in this instance. Isnt the stepping motor type of the EVC a better ideal solution to the task of boost control? Though the controls behind the EVC mas bot be as good as the Blitx unit.

honestley the blitz boost controller really comes into its own in twin applications, im sure there are a few guys on here with crazy GTR's who will back me up (dirt garage for one).

Hey Trent, thankyou for the reply. Looks like ill be buying the blitz EBC; thankgod i read your thread cos i was just about to order the powerfc kit for like 500bux.

-Johnny

Trent,

In your opinion do you see any reason why the IDIII wouldn't work on an APS kitted twin turbo LS2 running Tial ext gates.

I ask cos my brother has this setup without boost controller at this stage and just relying on wastegate springs to keep boost at just under 8psi (which is the way the workshop set it up).

I've just sold him my new IDIII (as I've gone Autronic SM4 on my SR) - however, we werent sure whether it would work on his car. Obviously it won't be installed until the bottom end is forged - its already putting out over 500rwhp with less than 8psi of boost.

Thanks in advance.

No reason for it not to work man, turbos are turbos, regardless what they are on.

Yeah thats what we thought.

PS: Let us know what power the LS2 makes :(

The torque is already awesome - the RE55 semi-slicks are useless in most gears. The kit is supposedly good for around 1000hp at the crank at around 14 psi IF the bottom end holds together. At that stage even the LS2 block integrity becomes questionable.

What really surprises me is that it now uses less fuel than when it was stock when driven in a "normal" fashion.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...