Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I currently have a r33 GTST skyline with 272 kw running a HKS GT2935 Pro S with all the usual mods (PFC, injectors, exhaust blah blah.).

Is it worth upgrading to the GT3037 Pro S? Or should I get cams instead?

Looking for around 330rwkw. or will the GT3037 not be able to push out 330rwkw?

Cheers

cams won't gain you much as you are around the limit of what the 2835 can make. You might stretch it to around 280.

I can't say for certain the 3037 will make the power you are after but it will go closer than adding cams to the current set up

Arguably mild cams such as Tomi Pon Cams would allow you to get the most of what you already have and be a next possibly affordable step along the way .

There probably comes a time when trying to force as much gas into/out of a std head with std cams become self defeating .

Its the mid range torque/rush I'd be chasing rather than a max Kw figure .

Just my thoughts , cheers A .

thats a nice healthy figure you have for stock cams. As mentioned adding cams wont get you a lot more, but as i found out with my own setup, poncams will give you 15+rwkw more through the midrange and a noticeable improvement in torque, not forgetting helping it spool earlier.

I find that for the street/city driving i do, my current peak of 280+rwkw is more than enough, and it will bag up in second gear just coming onto boost unless im on semislicks.

Im just about to see how much difference an extrude honed ex mani will make, if any..! (cubes, its still happening! just waiting on some half shafts from Nissan for the new OS diff centre to go in, and then its on the dyno for the re-tune)

speak of the devil, this just came through from my workshop!

"the orange one is all done just waiting to get on the dyno so should be good to go next week"

hopefully results very soon ;)

Edited by SLY33

Awesome sly33. Very keen to see the results.

Mines at 302rwkw with 256rwkw at 4K so its rather amusing in second. Still on stock inlet/exh. manifolds. I really hope this extrude hone is a go.

Who's doing the tune? The HKS2835ProS with cams manifolds etc is good only just for 300rwkw. Will be keen to see if it will manage it on the extrude honed exh. manifold. ;)

cubes thats an awesome result, your running a 3litre yeah? would your 2835 be the same as mine ex housing wise? (still not even sure what housing i have... which one does the HKS kit come with again?)

as i would have thought its a bit small for the extra exhaust flow from a 3litre?

Simon from Morpowa is tuning it, as he has done all my past tunes and ive been happy with each of them. Who tuned yours?

dunno if the honed stocker will give me an extra 20rwkw but will find out soon! will make a thread when its done.

cheers

I'd be looking around for one of the HKS cast low mount manifolds for an RB25 - or an RB25 head anyway .

One thing that would be interesting to know is if the Pro S bits all fit and work with the HKS low cast manifold .

From memory this manifold mounts the turbo a little further away from the engine and angles the compressor a little more towards the NS headlight .

If anyone has one of the Pro S turbos on the low cast manifold I'd like to see pics of the dump pipe to see how it clears everything .

Cheers A .

i just installed legend01's old set up with extrude honed HKS cast manifold and extrude honed GT3040 front and rear. it is difficult to compare the set up against the standard gear but the extrude honing is dead sexy when you feel it.

the cast metal feels like oily glass after the extrude honing

i doubt an extrude honed manifold is worth 20kw but it seems to bring things on a little earlier and i guess with more even runner flow, tuning can be more accurate with more equal cylinder efficiencies?!?.

i am thinking about extrude honing my spare stock manifold to go on the other car at some point nevertheless.

just finished my 3037 pro s tune today at crd and it made 304kw atw and pulls damn hard all the way up to 8200 rpm but as for making 330kw on 98 octan fuel i dont think it can be done with out spending lots of $$$$.i had a long and interesting talk about the limit of this turbo today and if you realy want 330kw pick a larger turbo.i once believed that a gt-rs would make 300kw cos of some crap written on sau so do yourself a favour if you realy want to make 330kw and want real advice this turbo will not do it for you with out spending up.

cubes thats an awesome result, your running a 3litre yeah? would your 2835 be the same as mine ex housing wise? (still not even sure what housing i have... which one does the HKS kit come with again?)

as i would have thought its a bit small for the extra exhaust flow from a 3litre?

Simon from Morpowa is tuning it, as he has done all my past tunes and ive been happy with each of them. Who tuned yours?

dunno if the honed stocker will give me an extra 20rwkw but will find out soon! will make a thread when its done.

cheers

Its a 3ltr, std inlet and exhaust manifolds. It pretty much topped out around 270-280rwkw before the cams. Dropped the cams in and went easily to 300 on 17psi.

The problem is it wouldn't hold any more than 17psi due to the weak actuator. It had the same issue before the cams making less power. 17psi was it.

The GT30 .82 exh. housing would be slightly larger than the 2835 I would presume.

I've known Sean @ Boostworx since he opened up shop so Boostworx it is. Motors done 90,000km's and hasn't let go so I'm confident of his tuning ability.

Warlord... To be honest the most I've seen out of the HKS3037S with a nice exhaust manifold, plenum and cams is 323rwkw on ~22psi with pump.

Al's RB30DET with cams, exhaust manifold and plenum has done 304rwkw on 16psi with more left in it as the motor has only just been run in.

No doubt that setup will pull 320rwkw hell maybe crack 330rwkw.

I'm going to push hard to crack 320rwkw with the std exhaust manifold even if it means extrude honing. ;)

Unless I drop a GT35r on it and drop the setup in to a cheap R32 GTS4 aiming for high 300's I'm not going to bother with the HKS exh. manifold.

I've driven the car a bit now and absolutely hooked on its 200rwkw @ 3500rpm and 256rwkw @ 4000rpm.

From second gear it hooks up damn well. 16" tyres FTW lol. I've tried wider 18" tyres and there's no comparison when comes to straight line grip. The 18's just simply don't.

hi cubes,i have no doubt that it will make 330kw but i have spent big,if i piss the cat off and get a exhaust manifold ill get close but thats $1500 for a manifold and the spending continues all up with my engine re-build and parts and tunes im at a easy 18-20k now but at the end the day the package is unbelievable thanks to dart and crd and the spending has to stop somewhere,well thats what my wife has said.....lol....

Edited by WARLORD

Well thats exactly it.. 20rwkw worth the non stock look and additional cost of a manifold. No thanks. :cool:

I really think the HKS3030ProS/GT3076r squeezes the absolute maximum out of the motor from a simple bolt on perspective.

18-20 is a fair whack.

Mine including the purchase of the head then rebuild/port polish etc set me back around 6k in total.

In total I've spent around 12k to get mine where it is now. Adds up damn quick.

Interesting thing this up to and around 290-300 Kw . Obviously the RB25 factory exhaust manifold will only go so far flow wise and I suppose HKS intended those Pro S turbos to live within its capabilities . Personally I think a GT3037/GT3076R 56T has more in it than 320 Kw but like most turbos it needs large A/R turbine housings to run it to its limit .

Cubes I would be very tempted to beg/borrow/steal a 1.06 A/R IW turbine housing because I think your 3 liter would be more free reving and with more advanced timing should gain in most areas except the very bottom end where it shouldn't be lacking anyway , what low WOT torque it lost may mean less traction loss at the same time in a RWD car .

Once you reduce the turbine inlet pressure you shouldn't have the IW issues because its the pressure and velocity that goes against integral waste gates , pressure wanting to force the gate open and high velocity meaning the gas not wanting to make the sharp right hander and flow out through the gates hole .

Not my money I know but food for thought , cheers A .

BTW I'll be trying for as close to 9.5 static CR and Pon Cams in my 33 25 because this has not been tried and I think pump fuels and turbos can nowdays cope with it .

just finished my 3037 pro s tune today at crd and it made 304kw atw and pulls damn hard all the way up to 8200 rpm but as for making 330kw on 98 octan fuel i dont think it can be done with out spending lots of $$$$.i had a long and interesting talk about the limit of this turbo today and if you realy want 330kw pick a larger turbo.i once believed that a gt-rs would make 300kw cos of some crap written on sau so do yourself a favour if you realy want to make 330kw and want real advice this turbo will not do it for you with out spending up.

I reckon this depends a lot on dyno, setup etc. What dyno were you running this one? Do you have high mount manifold/plenum/cams? How much boost?

I must admit I have never seen what these will do on an RB25DET though I am most keen to try and push mine hard at some point. I have seen Hondas/Mitsis getting well over 400whp/300kw @ wheels with these on pump gas on Dynojet and Dynapack dynos and mine has made 280kw @ wheels on pump gas without even really trying.

I am quite confident that I'd crack 330kw @ wheels on the turbo I have (.82a/r GT3076R) on a hub dyno with a decent manifold, cams and a decent hit of boost but the way the dynos read in Oz I'd consider a GT3582R for 330kw really - as much as anything just because a GT30R will definitely be at the high end of its capability on 330kw @ wheels whereas a GT3582R would be humming.

Edited by Lithium

discopotato03: I believe you are spot on with the 1.06ar theory on the 3ltr. I am tempted, but will not do it, to fit one and see the difference. Seeing my car on the dyno, it is easy to determine that the GT30R with the 0.82ar housing is the restriction in the setup. While my car was being tuned, i could see the collector on the manifold glowing bright red, at an early rpm range, and the ETM manifold is also ceramic coated.

Don't get me wrong, i love the instant response and linear power characteristics, hence why i wont change it, but would be good to see how this all changes with a 1.06ar housing and an external gate :cool:.

I am happy at the level of performance, handling, and appearance my car is at and have decided to stop spending money on it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...