Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My car has been over Transport inspection pit and I was provided 2 weeks to repair these "jack/jack stand battle scars" to maintain the manufacturer rigidity

IMG_5008.jpg

IMG_5006p.jpg

I saw somewhere on this forum that someone make brackets/panel for these things so that I can just weld them on top of this bent chassis. The search is down at the moment and not very useful.

Does anyone know where I can get them from or what else can I do to fix this issue?

I now know why there is so much love for the Transport inspector. I've been asked to fix up a few other minor issues too like replace a missing plastic part behind the door open lever, enclose and vent a dry cell battery in the boot etc etc. However PLEASE please keep this thread healthy and constructive :(

Edited by 9krpm

First off, those aren't jacking points. The jacking points are under the side sills. Or use the gearbox mounts. The chassis rails are very soft in compression, as you can now tell.

Take the car to a crash repairer. They can probably fix it in a day. Couple of years ago, cost me around $250 to have one side fixed.

Thanks blind elk. I know they are not jack point but the jack points are usually collapsed in most skylines because of age or overservicing :) The transmission mount is too far back to use for the hoist as most of weight of the r32 is at the front. The engine subframe is too far forward for an asymmetric arm hoist. So that point is often used by workshop to lift/jack the car :(

I have access to hoist and welding machine. Is there any DIY fix?

Also how did the crash repairer fix your?

Edited by 9krpm

I used a big allan key and was able to massage some of the dents out :blink:

The metal is a lot softer than I expected. There are few more dents all the way at the front that is quite difficult to reach...I may need to call a dent master to come out.

I am really keen to know how your repairer remove those dents blind_elk

Hi 9krpm - We had this repair done not too long ago at a crash repairer. What they did was weld a long lever to the area needing to be pulled out. Lifting the lever with a lot of force pulls the metal out. The longer the lever, the easier it will be for you. When the rails were straight, the lever and welds were removed and the rails painted with black rubber paint. The rails are dead straight now and look like new - I was pretty imprressed. Hope that helps.

Mine failed pits the first time around for the same reason, plus a host of others.

Remedy for the amount of damage that was done was to cut away and re-box the chassis rail.

  • 1 year later...
Mine failed pits the first time around for the same reason, plus a host of others.

Remedy for the amount of damage that was done was to cut away and re-box the chassis rail.

time to revive this topic

I'm currently looking at getting this fixed on my car which looks in

pretty bad shape, is "cutting and re-boxing" a safe option, any legal

issues?

Would rather get it pulled straight using the fore-mentioned technique with lever

anyone care to add any suggestions or reccommend a trust worthy panel beater

in brissy??

My rails were re-inforced with ~4mm steel plate across the bottom and the outer, plus a bunch of other steel work. This was part of a fairly major rust repair - the car was farked when i brought it into the country.

I can now jack my car from virtually anywhere along these rails. I usually use a trolley jack with a thick lump of rubber on it to help it grip and not damage the por-15 rust proofing paint i used on the entire underside :domokun:

cutting out the bent rails and replacing is actually the best option and believe it or not you can actually buy those parts new from nissan! you can buy the new chassis rail pieces and take them and your car to a smash repair place and have the old bent rails cut out and the nice new rails welded in place.

best bet is to go into a smash repair you trust and ask them what method they'd prefer. the new rail pieces were not that expensive. under $200 from memory.

My rails were re-inforced with ~4mm steel plate across the bottom and the outer, plus a bunch of other steel work. This was part of a fairly major rust repair - the car was farked when i brought it into the country.

I can now jack my car from virtually anywhere along these rails. I usually use a trolley jack with a thick lump of rubber on it to help it grip and not damage the por-15 rust proofing paint i used on the entire underside :rofl2:

How much did the rail enforcement set u back??

cutting out the bent rails and replacing is actually the best option and believe it or not you can actually buy those parts new from nissan! you can buy the new chassis rail pieces and take them and your car to a smash repair place and have the old bent rails cut out and the nice new rails welded in place.

best bet is to go into a smash repair you trust and ask them what method they'd prefer. the new rail pieces were not that expensive. under $200 from memory.

brilliant tnx Richard, didn't realize that was an option, now to find part no and quote :domokun:

I was lucky to have a local repairer who's a TAFE teacher and delighted in doing something different for a change. $250.

I believe he used a die to thread the hole and pulled it down.

Tyrepower at such 'n such a place dropped the car off a jack onto the rail - stupid idiot.

  • 3 months later...

Sorry to go digging for an old thread.

I have been looking at a few R32s recently and most seem to have some dents in the chassis rails under the car.

But how much is too much? Couple of examples below.

Are these safe and would they pass roadworthy? If not can they be repaired? What's would be the approximate cost (in Melb)?

2271704370102364341S425x425Q85.jpg 2595036160102364341S425x425Q85.jpg

Thanks guys.

But how much is too much? Couple of examples below.

Are these safe and would they pass roadworthy? If not can they be repaired? What's would be the approximate cost (in Melb)?

Don't worry about it, I went around a few workshops in the area with photos of rails under various cars and got some very useful feedback. Highly recommended if you're considering buying.

Make sure you look out for 'ripples' between floorpan and the chassis rail, it's a good sign of a compromised rails. Being crushed by jacking is not necessarily as bad, although that may be expensive to repair too.

Cheers

Solution for the long term is to ditch your $50 supercheap trolley jack and get one with a decent sized plate and rubber on it. That way you are apreading the weight over a larger surface area of the rail and less likely to bend/crush it. I jack mine up on the cross member usually but if I need one whole side up I go off the rail, I;ve never had this issue.

i wouldn't mind the 4 mm sheet metal bent into rail shape. i have been told that panel beater's remove the spot welds to get it out, hammer and dolly it straight then reweld.

Edited by Dan_J

Most damage is caused from forklift drivers in japan when they pick the car up for shipping

The forklifts driver should be kicked in the balls by everyone on SAU

Edited by NISSAN GTR
  • 2 years later...

i know this is an old thread but i have been stressing since i bought my 32 after seeing the rails and have wanted to get it fix,now i know its possible . So anyone know a workshop in brissie that could do the job,or even better someone that has had it done resently with good results. Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...