Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

just a few quick picks

started preparing the the r35 for some rally work,

managed to get the cage done in absolute record time and top job too!!

things that need to be done are: roll cage, seats, harnesses, fire system, kill switch, new brake pads / fluid / rotors , wheel alignment, intercom, helmet net, rally rego, log book, etc etc.

also got the paddle shifter modto move with the steering wheel, thanks beerman!!!

and five weeks to do it in!

post-17546-1219751473_thumb.jpg

post-17546-1219751492_thumb.jpg

post-17546-1219751509_thumb.jpg

will keep you posted

Edited by giant
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233474-r35-prep-for-rally-tas/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 174
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

dunc , nope i have no rally experience so big learning curve, ben will have to keep me in check

i have done about 15 years as a mechanic for an ARC team but not as driver.

no we dont have tyres sorted, we will be running on the tyres i used at superlap! :D they are half f#@ked! i also have a spare set of the bridgestones runflats if needed.

we will definately struggle for tyres but will still be a good learning curve and shake down for next year.

the cage is done by competition fabrications at redcliff , fellow by the name of Dave Feron , he is bloody good, i am amazed he did it so quick for me , normally about a 3 month wait( he did it in 5 days)

Details?? (Can't believe they have fixed padels! I was hoping someone would make a mod for that.)

Snowie a couple of jap tuners now make a kit for them....I believe MCR is one of them.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/MC...it-t225405.html

Snowie a couple of jap tuners now make a kit for them....I believe MCR is one of them.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/MC...it-t225405.html

But that requires an aftermarket wheel hey. I was hoping for one that kept the standard wheel.

yeah...Andrew it's the MCR one. apparently looks like really good quality gear should have it friday so will post some pics.

hehe, I'll beat you to it. I took some pics last night, will post em up later.

It's a very nice kit and well worth it as having the paddles move with the wheel is a must. as Russ well knows you come out of anything slow and tight hard on the gas and you will be needing to grab another gear mid slide/corner or you'll be promptly out of revs. trying to do that with fixed paddles is not nice.

the MCR kit has awesome carbon paddles, and the quality of all the other little bits that make it work is just amazing. even the works bell boss kit is nice.

yeah ... have to go to aftermarket wheel .

matty... the seats i got from racer industries www.racerindustries.com , they are great really comfortable & high sides so you wont move around, they were abount 2k each from memory maybe just under

yeah... i heard they started from marking jet sprint boat seats.

also if your not after FIA approved seats, i think racetech do cheaper seats to suit the jet sprint boats which are they same without approval.

as Russ well knows you come out of anything slow and tight hard on the gas and you will be needing to grab another gear mid slide/corner or you'll be promptly out of revs. trying to do that with fixed paddles is not nice.

Yeah look I've had a good play with cars of both types before (eg fixed - Ferrari 360 Stradalle and moving - Audi R8) and the moving is definitely the way to go. It's not just crossed up tight corner exits either - at say Phillip Island on the long sweeping final two bends you need to grab gears mid corner as well and possibly exiting southen loop depending on raitios.

Its a must have :banana:

matty... the seats i got from racer industries www.racerindustries.com , they are great really comfortable & high sides so you wont move around, they were abount 2k each from memory maybe just under

awesome, thanks russ

Not messing around mate you sounded like you didnt have much hope getting it all done a week or so ago. What a difference a week makes hey. Good luck with it all. Will no doubt see you before then so will be good to check out the transformation in the flesh. Did you end up going thru the dash with the cage? as i said you may as well have as you know what the future holds for this thing mate. Stipped out race car ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...