Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday crew just wondering what people are running on their cars cat converter-wise i want a bit more flow/grumble in my exhaust think its still running a stock cat converter. how have people done about either a high flow cat or a de-cat pipe? anythin that will stuff up the O2 sensors? any recomendation?

any helps good help.

thanks crew

Dion

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234741-to-cat-or-not-to-cat/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I had a bad experience once with a supposed "high-flow" cat, and lost a fair bit of top end, however id love to see some back to back results of these modern style metal cats that i see a lot of users running. Currently running a Just Jap decat pipe. would recommend it if you want to go the decat option as its nice quality. Make sure youve got a good front pipe too.

Im using a metalcat brand cat converter and ive noticed no power losses at all. Ive got two front pipes; one with the cat and one without, but i cant tell the difference except for the stain i get on the rear bar without the cat. Im using 3.5 inch exhaust, 4in cat and flows 350kw without a drama.

thanks peeps helps a fair bit! will prob go the high flow a good name one to be on the safe side of both the law and performance.

yeah i wasn't too sure about the O2 sensors as i work for fords product development and we have pre and post cat sensors to check cat operation in the falcons and fpv's. shame

thanks again

Dion

But if you get pulled over by the rta, they can pick it, and all of the off the shelf "high quality"decat pipes are able to be picked by the cops. The only way to get around being picked by the cops is to have a pipe welded through the guts of a stock cat.

Not worth it, high flow $300.

Fine max $10,000 or something, on a rwkw cost benefit analysis, you would likely be paying something stupid like $2000 per kilowatt.

There are other mods out there that will give many more kw per $$$$

LOL at good quality decat pipe, its a piece of pipe with 2 flanges, what difference can there be in quality?

In answer to your question, obviously functional quality of a decat pipe wont vary much, but there are definite differences in quality of materials and fit and finish among many of these so called "bolt-in" pipes.

yeah if i was to do a de-cat then i would deffinitely get the shell of one welded over the pipe where i am in vic dont have any rta crew bootin round pickin up crew just cops, and i never been pulled over yet always waved through busses and stuff so i think i will be right.

If you want to pay the $ - there are cats available that will flow as much as you want to go.

I have a CES cat and make 581 rwhp - we dropped the cat on the dyno and picked up 7 extra whp.

I have used one of the cheaper cats on the market who claim to be the beex kneez - it melted the internals after 7 power runs.

Why are people only concerned about outright power? Sure it may have only picked up 7hp at the top but what about midrange? What about on/off/on again throttle response, fuel economy?

Doing a dyno test tels you sweet fa realy about the drivability differences between having and not having a cat.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
    • More so GReddy oil relocation kits, sandwich plates, etc. all use 10AN fittings. And same, I've only used 10AN and my car sees track work (circuit, doing laps, not 10 sec squirt business).
    • street use or race track, what hose size and why? what factors change with the hose size options ?   see most comon is an10. when you see most oem external coolers are closer to an12? does high volume oil pump like nitto need an12 or 10 be just fine
×
×
  • Create New...