Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

need to get new pads n rotors for the stag. the guy i bought it off said hed put new pads on it but obviously didnt as they wore through the other day. ive heard the s model runs slightly bigger brakes? can anyone recomend where to go in adelaide or what will fit ect.

need urgent, my only car at the moment. thats drivable anyway :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234882-rs4s-brakes/
Share on other sites

so can i get factory pads n rotors from nissan?

If they are the same as my RS4T then:

Front rotors: DBA 4909SR and DBA4909SL (left and right) ...no longer certain about numbers for rears. BUT check prices and dimensions (esp offset on rears) before you buy.

I think they are the same as S14 200SX (if they are more common in Australia)

But double check... thre has been much confusion

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234882-rs4s-brakes/#findComment-4115699
Share on other sites

A guy on ebay sells pads for $195 delivered. His listing is finished but I've seen it a few times. His nick is "agoodvib" and the link to his completed listing is http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-STAGEA-WGC34...1QQcmdZViewItem

hope that helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234882-rs4s-brakes/#findComment-4115830
Share on other sites

S2's a a bit different but how much did they charge you by the way? All 4 corners?

ABS brake services city branch (in adelaide) got me a set of pads in for the front of my 97 s1 stagea within a couple of hours. And they are Lucas Premium pads so they are not to bad....
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234882-rs4s-brakes/#findComment-4116430
Share on other sites

ok i found the genuine pads for bout $200 but guy at sprint said he could do lucas for $100 set.

the dba 4909sr is looking promising. nissan said the 4 must stand for 4000 series? 909 is the rotor and sr stans for sloted rotor, but hes unsure if its the right one.

i gave the number to sprint he said that sounds bout right and he could get them but for twice the price as i could. and that was from qweensland friction manufactures. can anyone else add to this to confirm these rotors fitting cause i wont be able to return them.

by the way i would take them off and have them matched up but its the only car i got roadworthy at the moment.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234882-rs4s-brakes/#findComment-4119181
Share on other sites

ok i found the genuine pads for bout $200 but guy at sprint said he could do lucas for $100 set.

the dba 4909sr is looking promising. nissan said the 4 must stand for 4000 series? 909 is the rotor and sr stans for sloted rotor, but hes unsure if its the right one.

i gave the number to sprint he said that sounds bout right and he could get them but for twice the price as i could. and that was from qweensland friction manufactures. can anyone else add to this to confirm these rotors fitting cause i wont be able to return them.

by the way i would take them off and have them matched up but its the only car i got roadworthy at the moment.

These are for front only. S = slotted l=left r=right a= heat treated (optional, more expensive but better). I believe these are made in Australia so you may be able to track down the manufacturer or else try some other auto parts places (not Nissan).

p.s. If you are on a budget (for now) and not intending to hammer the brakes you could see if the rotors could be machined.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234882-rs4s-brakes/#findComment-4120299
Share on other sites

Lucas pads FTW!!!!

They are pre-baked so the break in period is bugger all compared to other pads. Not too dusty either IMO.

A member here in WA gets his brake pads rebonded for about $60 per set so maybe PM chuckie for future reference.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234882-rs4s-brakes/#findComment-4123721
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

ok the rotors took two weeks but finally here. ive just sat one of them over the ones that are currently on my car and they seem to be 1 maybe 2 mm smaller, but i do have a big lip on the edge so f*k nows. im having troble geting the original ones off ive bashed em slide hammerd em sprayed em WTF. i dont have to take the hub nut off do i?

has anyone else had to bash em off? they do look fairly corroded around the inner edge.

lucas pads no is db1439 off navara.

DBA 4909SR is what i ordered from nissan QFM slot em.

any hints or tips on getting these rotors off asap appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234882-rs4s-brakes/#findComment-4159484
Share on other sites

ok ok ok. this is f**kt up. went out and with a bit of frustration i got the rotors off. then put new ones on then went to put pads on and the lucas pads no i just gave to yas is no good. they look the part but there about 3mm to long and wont fit the calipers. so now im putting my shitty brakes bak togetha and back to were i began. ;):D:):bunny::bunny::bunny::):down:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234882-rs4s-brakes/#findComment-4159521
Share on other sites

Shoulda checked the brake sticky dude, we just covered S2 stagea rotors. The front rotor is 49mm offset not 54 like silvia/skyline.

The only rotors i could find that would fit are genuine nissan or imported from japan specifically for S2 stageas.

DBA dont make a rotor that fits.

I fitted dixcel slotted rotors and wedsport sc pads.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234882-rs4s-brakes/#findComment-4168704
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...