Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

-7s being a tad more responsive again (over -9) would be an excellent choice if response is your #1 goal.

FYI, here's stock vs -7 boost response (very few data points.....its rough) same engine and probably same cam timing.

med_gallery_15274_3730_6060.png

FYI, here's stock vs -7 boost response (very few data points.....its rough) same engine and probably same cam timing.

med_gallery_15274_3730_6060.png

I thought N1 turbos were different to -7 turbos?? The legend on your graph says N1 whereas your text says -7. I thought -7 were a lot more responsive then N1.

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey guys, great thread, some useful information in it.

i am slowly working on my car to achieve just this set up 300awkw

at the moment, i have just installed

GT2860-7 x 2 turbos

Tomei expreme dump pipes

already has a front pipe, and a hks preist cat back with a high flow 3" Catco cat. (looking at changing exhuast to one with a bit louder/better flow) any suggestions?? rear cannon style.

i have a vipec ecu (which i need to get retuned but going to wait till after mods) MAFless

it has pump incar already, so that is a non issue.

suspension is all done.

i am at the stage of buying injectors, i have been looking at seimens injectors, can anybody give me some info on which type to run if they know about seimens injectors? part numbers etc, im looking at about the 600cc mark for injectors

Also never really though about cam gears, but might also look into those b4 retune.

Cheers

Daz

ive got very similar mods to urs Daz.

im running 600cc nismo injectors with a sard intake fuel pump with a direct 14v power supply.

im also running GReddy cam gears, i think they are great on an RB26. they gave me more flexability when it came time for tuning. ie i had a choice between getting them tuned for outright power or sacrifice abit of top end for more midrange power/torque :)

ive got very similar mods to urs Daz.

im running 600cc nismo injectors with a sard intake fuel pump with a direct 14v power supply.

im also running GReddy cam gears, i think they are great on an RB26. they gave me more flexability when it came time for tuning. ie i had a choice between getting them tuned for outright power or sacrifice abit of top end for more midrange power/torque :)

Whats your max injector duty? What power is it making and what boost is that at?

+1 on cam gears

Not sure on injector duty, il have to find that out

296kw @ 19psi - cam gears adjusted for midrange, feels so responsive And just screams out of corners like a mofo :) I'm happy with it 100%

Duty couldn't be too high with 600s, im running 700s and only seeing max of 65% @ 350-360rwkw. Has a minor rail pressure bump so move it to 70-75%

600cc @ 300rwkw, rough stab would be 55-65%?

Had a good read of this thread before I started my round of mods for 300kw. My mods so far are

2860-9

Nismo 600cc

New PFC

HKS cam gears

Greddy dump/front pipe extension

Kakimoto Regu exhaust

Splitfire coil packs

Hasn't been tuned yet because of coilpack and EBC issues. But I'm hopeful I'll get close to cracking the 300 mark but at this stage I just want it tuned and running

Time and time again I see ppl try to estimate duty cycle in relation to power output but it seems like we are leaving out the most inportant fator which is afr.

A car with 600cc making 300rwkw tuned at 11.0afr will show higher duty cycle than if it was tuned to 12.0afr and making the same 300rwkw.

Can any one explain why my boost curve is fluctuating, at a glance i'd guess some sort of fuzzy logic function however im pretty sure the blitz spec r are theoretically just an open loop controller with simple duty cycle adjustment. The car is running the standard 8psi actuators on dash 7s and the blitz boost controller set to 86. When i eventually fit bigger dumps (i have stock 32), bigger afm and retune on e85, i'd like to run more boost. Is it worth while upgrading to 14psi actuators?

Cheers

Pat

l.jpg

Time and time again I see ppl try to estimate duty cycle in relation to power output but it seems like we are leaving out the most inportant fator which is afr.

A car with 600cc making 300rwkw tuned at 11.0afr will show higher duty cycle than if it was tuned to 12.0afr and making the same 300rwkw.

No different to estimating a dyno figure range or RPM turbos will come on.

There are always variables, however you can work out 'roughly' in most cases, hence its called an estimate...

Currently running -9s with 335kw, nismo 600cc injectors and fuel pump, with a max injector duty cycle of 86%

Just for reference

What air flow meters are using to get up to that figure? Are the standard still coping or have they been changed to Nismo or Z32?

My car is getting tuned in just under two weeks with -9s and 720cc injectors so i'm thinking the AFM's are going to be the next limiting factor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...