Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB25DETS2 - is that 323 on a built motor? Where did you get it tuned?

Standard Head/Gasket

Standard intake manifold/throttle body

Standard exhaust manifold

Standard rods/piston/block (genuine 105,000klms with books)

HKS 3037 pro S running 24psi trailing off to 19psi by redline

Nismo 555 injectors running 90% duty

Nismo Fuel Pump

Power FC

Blitz LM cooler

Gizzmo EBC

Tuned with a datalogit and wideband by Adrian a fellow member here in SA username 180or200. His 33 is making 300 odd with standard bottom end and E85 also, definately knows his stuff.

That's a hell of a lot of power for a stock engine. Has the car been put on another dyno to check the results?

Yeah granted it is but if the 1j's can do it why not the rb. As a comparison it has been on three dynos with the same state of tune and read 250.7(DD),251(mainline) and 257 on the one it made 323 on.

did you glue or sticky tape the pistons back together?

You can blow one of these engines up at 180 with a crap tune.The knock is almost non existant with E85 the same couldn't be said with 98. Adrian who tuned my car has been running around for six months with over 300rwkw and E85.

I want E85 and i need it now!

Just make sure you get a good tune and have a fuel syetem capable of handling the xtra flow needed. Oh forgot to add i'm still running standard airbox too looks bog stock when you lift the bonnet (besides the turbo and dump of course). :P

Having 300rwkw and using 300rwkw everyday are two different things.

I'll be honest, I'm a sceptic. The 25 is probably a little less refined than the 1J, and as we all know (but probably don't like to admit that the 2J is stronger than the 26).

A dyno sheet would be awesome, as I'm keen on seeing the power curve down low. From your post I gather max power is at around 20-21psi?

Having 300rwkw and using 300rwkw everyday are two different things.

I'll be honest, I'm a sceptic. The 25 is probably a little less refined than the 1J, and as we all know (but probably don't like to admit that the 2J is stronger than the 26).

A dyno sheet would be awesome, as I'm keen on seeing the power curve down low. From your post I gather max power is at around 20-21psi?

Fair enough i'm not saying it gets used to its maximum every day that would be stupid to just thrash the living shit out of it, but if the mood arises. Dyno sheet in the RB25 upgrade thread which compares my last 98 tune and 18psi.

I can recall a good mate of mine making 321rwkw about 3-4 years ago using a HKS GT3037S with a 0.87 exh' on a standard RB25DET, although his engine did have a HKS head gasket and HKS cams. But the power levels were no different, only the fuel - 98 vs. E85 - HKS cams and a few pounds extra boost would have made up the majority of the power in this example. It would have been interesting to see how much extra his old set-up would have made on E85 - 350 to 370rwkw maybe.

I don't doubt the power figure for a second. The longevity on a standard 9:1 bottom end and stock cast RB25 pistons is debatable, but until it fails more power to Lee!

Thanks Matt

I dont see the point in pulling down the engine because of maybe's and hear say, if it chucks a leg out of bed then so be it, i will deal with it if and when it happens. State of tune and Knock plays a huge role in engine failures.

I am willing to bet that a stock RB25 bottom end will be able to handle 350rwkw with E85.

Get me a stock rb25 engine and i will drop it into my car. If i break it at anything under 350 rwkw i will pay for the engine.

This fuel is soo forgiving its not funny. You can get the MAX torque level and then advance the timing a extra 10 deg and it will STILL NOT DETONATE.

DETONATION destroys engines!!! if your not pinging your RB25 it will last shitloads longer!!! Look at old mate from wollongong who ran over 380rkw and ran a 10 sec quarter on unstable pump 98...

add e85 to the equasion and your talking BIG power. I would not be suprised if you can reach 400rwkw with e85 and a stock RB25. (maybe some rod bolts might be needed but you never know lets try it ???)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That is way more science than even I would use. I just eyeball it, not even accounting for the non-verticality of the tape measure when held on the lip and the centre at the same time. +/- 2mm is good enough for the girls I go out with.
    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
    • So....knowing that I have a problem with power steering temps on track and another Wakefield day booked in next Friday, I've done the obvious thing They are very reasonably priced at $1650, considering they are a big monotube shock, double height adjustable (don't have to change pre-load to change ride height), one way adjustable damping and standard sized and customisable springs if you want something other than what comes with them. They come with 9kg/mm front and 4.5kg/mm front and I went with that as a starting point because I'll add adjustable sway bars too https://justjap.com/products/bc-racing-coilover-kit-ds-ds-infiniti-q50-v37-14-current#description Unfortunately they didn't come with rear strut tops so I've re-used the factory ones which was a bit of a pain. Also, the adjuster for the rear shock will be an absolute nightmare to get at, and while there are extensions in the kit I can't see any way you can actually attach or use them
    • I also had 2 bulbs blow at once, years ago in the stagea. made for a fun drive home. The issue was the voltage regulator had failed in the alternator and it was giving 15+ volts. Really, I was lucky all that was fried were the headlight bulbs. So, I'd suggest you check the voltage across your battery terminals with the car running and warmed up. Yes, you will need a multimeter to do so, sorry.
    • Good work to think to check that, and thanks for coming back to post up the outcome.
×
×
  • Create New...