Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Question for VIC/Melb guys,

According to Caltex's release, the Caltex on corner of Clayton and Centre rd is supposed to have Eflex. I went there last week and they didn't!!!

Can anyone confirm whether the Springvale or Mt Waverley stations DEFINATELY have it? Hate driving all the way there and it doesn't have it...

Springvale, 154-172 Springvale Road

Footscray, 62-82 Gordon Street

Hillside, 575 Melton Highway

Campbellfield, 1802-1808 Hume Highway corner Barrys Road

Mount Waverley, 622-626 Blackburn Road

Clayton, 409 Clayton Road corner Centre Road

Yarra Glen, 66 Bell Street

Preston, 349 Plenty Road

Melton, corner Melton Highway and Gisborne Melton Road

Lilydale, 346 Main Street

Mornington, 841 Nepean Highway

Err, just checked google maps street view:

622 Blackburn rd Mt Waverley is an AMPOL? I've been past there a few times and I don't recall a Caltex there....hmmm

LOL same with 154 Springvale Rd Springvale:

http://maps.google.com.au/maps?hl=en&rlz=&q=154+springvale+rd+springvale&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hq=&hnear=154+Springvale+Rd,+Springvale+VIC+3171&gl=au&ei=wpeGTYz1BIfIvQPsrKDaCA&sa=X&oi=geocode_result&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CBYQ8gEwAA

Am I missing something here? I take it the Google Maps street pics must be really outta date?

Edited by ironpaw

If you go to the Blackburn road or Lilydale ones they don't give a crap. lol.

Just give them a wave at Springvale, to let them know you are fine, and know what you are doing, and want them to please turn the pump on. lol.

I thought most of the attendants would know my car there, must be high staff turnover.

That servo is just up the street from Edge, where I was getting my car tuned on Sunday, you should have dropped in Jeff. :)

Its bloody handy having an ethanol pump so close by as most people in the know want an e85 tune now. I hope Caltex are planning to roll out more pumps soon though.

That servo is just up the street from Edge, where I was getting my car tuned on Sunday, you should have dropped in Jeff. :)

Its bloody handy having an ethanol pump so close by as most people in the know want an e85 tune now. I hope Caltex are planning to roll out more pumps soon though.

Ah bummer! I was at the Hypergear workshop hanging out and solving my boost dropping issue woohoo!

just refilled my first tank of e85 lol.

$65 for a full tank from the empty light being just on is the best part of it.

oh wait.. no the power isdevil.gif

lol the blackburn rd guy shook his head at me and said in an indian accent "only these bloody japanese cars put this fuel" i said, the owners were smart thats why

just refilled my first tank of e85 lol.

$65 for a full tank from the empty light being just on is the best part of it.

LOL something is wrong there...only 50L to fill up your car!? (Assuming Eflex is $1.29 atm)

Ah wait your fuel gauge is wrong....forgot >_<

More power and paying less at the petrol pump? This is something I want in.

Anyone give insight as to if my mods will support. Fuel system consist of a Bosch 040 and Nismo 740cc injectors. ECU is a power FC. All my gear is going in it soon and one of the benefits, apart from power and cost, is EGT with E85 and other blends should be lower and it detonates less, so Ive heard.

Would my fuel setup be sufficient? Its in an R33 GTST.

Also does anyone have a list of places with E85 in Sydney? I know theres a place up on victoria road but damn, driving 30 mins each way to fill up fuel...

I'd be willing to invest in a kit to load maps onto my ECU as I need them. One for E85 and one for regular unleaded fuel. Does anyone here do this? Are there any ECU's which can support both fuels or have two maps pre loaded? If I was to say run my PFC and have a tune on my PC for the other type of fuel, would there be bad results when switching between fuel types, because of the remains in the fuel system and bit in the tank?

Also just noticed the above link lol. Started reading a few pages back then dumped a post.

Edited by SargeRX8

regarding $$$ per kilometer, E85 will actually work out worse. Just addressing your very first line in the post here :P

Otherwise you've got the same fuel setup as me...I'm not running ethanol yet so I can't comment on what power the fuel setup should be good for, but I'd say 350rwkw easily. For a standard RB25DET, you're not going to have fueling issues unless you're going beyond the "safe" limits of the internals.

Your fuel system looks fine, but what power? You will need about 20% more fuel at wot so if you have at least that overhead with your injectors now you should be fine.

Ive got the ATR43SS turbo off Stao. He was making 320rwkw on standard internals but with 800cc injectors being the different factor. I'm looking at roughly 280 - 300rwkw on standard fuel.

yeh but i think it does make it easier to pay smaller amounts at a time rather than a larger amount.

for me its a plus because i was spending $95 on 98 to get 350km out of a tank (about 170kw atw - pre tune - rich as) but now im spending about $75 for E85 for about 350km now that the tune is sorted and the fuel mixture is correct at about 285kw atw - so it was kind of a plus for me. and its still running really rich as its not really maxed on performance because of a boost issue and trans is holding me back.

i know i'de get more km's out of it if I went on 98 now. but thats not happening lol

Yeah theres no reason to get happy about the price cause it will probably work out to cost more or just even if your lucky. Needs to be 80-90 cents to be worth it cost wise.

Not everyone running ethanol is a tightarse, some run it because its a better (higher octane) fuel, Holden are banking on people running it for no power increase, just to make you feel warm, fuzzy and green. It has worked out around the same cost as 98 for me per km, but with a much higher power output.

I run ethanol because I hated the sound of my engine pinging on a hot day, I wanted to run stupid boost, and the 30% extra torque was a great bonus. Plus much of my hard earned is staying in Australia, some even going to our poor farmers.

Is there a better fuel you can buy from the pump?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...