Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

United is 10c a litre more expensive and will get you slightly less K's but smells much better than eflex, not harsh but sweet.

The United made slightly more powers at less boosts when I tuned on it yesterday. In the end I chose United due to the pump being local.

United is 10c a litre more expensive and will get you slightly less K's but smells much better than eflex, not harsh but sweet.

The United made slightly more powers at less boosts when I tuned on it yesterday. In the end I chose United due to the pump being local.

can you list the results of power and boost with each fuel? did united not make any more power when running equal boost?

cheers

United made more power but the tuner decided enough was enough. Stock motors can only take this sort of punishment for so long. The compressor was well out of efficiency by this stage and although I was keen to keep going, he didn't want a piston out the block. Fair enough, I have to trust his judgement.

i live 2mins from springy caltex, however the cheltanham rd and clayton one are only 15mins away so not exactly far. Having small dash 7s on 8psi actuator which i know will struggle to hold high boost, perhaps united will be the better option if it can make more power with less boost. Who tuned your car? how much more duty are you using on your injectors on united, 10%?

Edited by linkems

Cihan (Etuner) has always tuned my car, no-one else would touch it originally.

I have the laptop and tune here but I have no idea how to find out injector duty as I just changed to the fcon vpro, and still learning the software. I'm guessing around 80% on the 1000's, it would only be around 2% more if that at a guess.

Hurry up and get the tune already :) i wanna see

Results

Haha Working on it!! Booked in next week, but trying to organise trailer and a heap of other things!!

^^^350rwkw@24psi Taking bets lol

haha Stock internals man, dont think ill push 24psi into it without blowing it up....However JEM can make the call on that LOL

Got some for the GTR drag challenge next week, 81% from Rozelle. Still WAY better than anything from Caltex

STILL? There must be something in this. Remember my last lot ? It was E77. Wherever Dave gets it from seem's like the go... but oh so far away!

Rozelle, pull your finger out!

The boost wont hurt the engine. Especialy with E85. Micko's is running 24psi on 325ish kw. Gtx3071. Dont be soft :)

Fine!!! The paperwork will say 'Max safe tune' so whatever they choose ill be happy with..... It'll be more than i am capable of anyway LOL

Im running 25psi and 336kw actually :P haha

Agree with jez dont be soft BOOST it mate :nyaanyaa:

Haha PEER PRESSURE :P

Haha sorry Micko i couldnt remember. Dam cold has farked with my head

Dont blame the cold :ph34r:

Fine!!! The paperwork will say 'Max safe tune' so whatever they choose ill be happy with..... It'll be more than i am capable of anyway LOL

Haha PEER PRESSURE :P

Dont blame the cold :ph34r:

Haha. Its a contagious farker. My whole family is getting it.

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys, i thought instead of me making a new thread i would just ask in this one. I'm doing a DE+TT on my 300ZX which is on 10.8:1 Compression, i plan to use most of the stock TT bits on my NA except for the injectors, fuel pump and ecu. Can the varying blends (winter/summer) be tuned around so the car can run both? obviously it won't be optimal but can it be done? On 98 octane the car needs 15 degrees of timing removed from the 2000~4000rpm area of the map trailing to 5 degrees removed up top so i'm hoping E85 will help with this?. I'm looking at running around 18psi to see what i can get out of the stock turbos. They usually make 250rwkw on 16psi on pump fuel so i'm hoping mine will make a bit more at 18psi and E85.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...