Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone been through the process of building and registering their own trailer?

Looking at the RTA and DOTARS docs there is a design check listed in the rego process so i'd like to know how extensive that is if anyone knows. The rest is easy.

In south australia its dead easy for standard trailers. We still have the full documentation on tow bar pull strength, side thrust strength etc. However for trailers under about 3T rating they basically do a lap of the trailer, check the lights work, reflectors are in the right place and nothing looks stupidly undersize or dodgy. Quite often they wont even check you springs & axles are correctly rated. If it all looks good you get signed off and away you go. It's only if its clearly made by an amature (dodgy welding is a clear give away), rusty, or if its a larger truck type trailer that they really start having a close look to confim everything is spot on.

  • Replies 435
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Definitely, but unfortunately they're out of the budget at the moment! An encloseed Nevco would be great, but 20k I don't have 20k burning a hole in my back pocket. So I'll use an open trailer for now and avoid leaving it out overnight, and cover up the intake and cockpit when towing.

How is your car coming along? Have you purchased an enclosed trailer for it?

Picked this second hand trailer up a few years ago, I need to do something about the stickers on the side of it as they have actually melted into the paint underneath them, it's tall enough inside that I can walk around in it easily.

IMG_0871.jpg

The car itself is getting closer to being finished, I had a few little setbacks and rule changes to deal with that resulted in undoing changes that I had made to the car to make it legal for the old rules.

$8500, complete with a number of storage compartments and benches internally, 4 wheel electric brakes with breakaway system, new tyres and wheel bearings, 240v internal lighting, 50l water tank and a 20m retractable airline.

It is also internally beaver tailed, to make the loading height lower.

I'm Currently building my enclosed trailer and planning to permanantly mount a winch inside the trailer at the front.

How many people in here actually use a decent pulley system with their winches or do you just drag it 1:1?

Reason I ask is I want to get away with a smallish winch (1200kg) to reduce weight, space taken up, cost and a few other pointless reasons

I've been using large winches 1:1 for years but looking to do a good pulley system this time round.

Any photos floating around?

check the winch loadings again, the rated weight is normally dead weight not rolling. I have used those crappy supercheap ones for years, even damaged cars they pull them up fine. the really small ones are just slow and might need a break on a long job.

The stupid cheap ones are the ones I have used too. Never given me any greif but I thought while doing it I may as well put in the extra effort.

I bought a 1200kg 4x4 winch today it's more compact and was very much the right price from Repco.

Brad - whenever I need to move something that is a bit heavier or will not roll freely I just use a snatch block to double the force of the winch - it is quick and easy to use and just lives in the 4X4 with the other recovery gear.

And your mates at supercrap have them on special at the moment.

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Ridge-Ryder-Heavy-Duty-Snatch-Block-8000kg.aspx?pid=103433#Description

I has come up with something similar but with a dual pulley system which should give me 1/3 the load on the winch.

I understand rolling weight etc but the less load the safer it is really. I'm only doing this trailer once so it's got to be right the first time.

I didn't say i'd pay $15k for it (id pay $12.5k) but it is certainly the best enclosed trailer that has been on ebay since xmas (I get multiple ebay alerts each day :P).

This trailer is longer and has better cladding which would be work a few k more.

I didn't say i'd pay $15k for it (id pay $12.5k) but it is certainly the best enclosed trailer that has been on ebay since xmas (I get multiple ebay alerts each day :P).

This trailer is longer and has better cladding which would be work a few k more.

Yea I have to agree it looks great,,,but I have questions about it. Sure the starting price is right,,,not a cent more,,,but have a look at how short the draw bar is and how far back the wheels are. Might be great for a light car but I wouldn't put a Skyline in it. The other problem is if you want to store heavy gear in it,,,you better strap everything down good and proper.

Cheers

Neil.

  • 4 months later...

Need some help..

Looking to buy a car trailer asap,was just looking at the ebay cheap one's for around $2900 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BRAND-NEW-15FT-CAR-TRAILER-BOX-TANDEM-2OOOKG-1YEAR-REGO-/160648991466?pt=AU_Trailers&hash=item25676d12ea#ht_568wt_1139

as a mate just got one,and they are good for the price,and perfect for low cars,but its only been about 1month and he is already seeing surface rust where the tyres sit on the car.

Now i know its only a little bit of surface rust,but rust is rust.

So now i've decided to go galvanised,as i would like it to last some time,either in my hands or someone else's.

I emailed that mob asking about gal,and its an Extra $2400 ish for gal,which seems a little steep for me,seeing as(going off a gal site) it should be around $1500 per tonne for a trailer.

So...

I was wondering if anyone knows of a good place to buy a trailer around the newcastle/sydney area..

Anywhere you would recommend going,prices and what not.

Any help would be great

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • List all of your mods. It sounds like an aftermarket ECU hitting rev limiter. Like a valet mode, or a cold rpm limiter? 
    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
×
×
  • Create New...