S1 Turbo

[66yostagea]

Still not got the manifold off and another two studs have sheared, with very little torque. This is very frustrating.

[Xmetal]

Rock on down to Supercheap or Bursons and get a stud extractor kit!

[GoldZilla]

And a billion more cans of WD40 or similar...

[KiwiRS4T]

And a billion more cans of WD40 or similar...

Yep give them a good spray and leave them overnight . Before applying twisting torque give them a good tap end on with a hammer. I call the extractor things ezy-outs which may or may not be a brand name. Use a small drill to make a hole as central as possible and then enlarge the hole before tapping in the extractor tool. Not a nice job. Good luck.

[66yostagea]

I can think of much better stuff to have in cans.lol

A local guy came to see me last night. He is going to fix. He has a special kit that uses left hand drill bits so th stud remnants wont tighten as you drill. He said in a lot of cases the stud bit comes out while drilling.

[wolverine]

i understand that using left handed drill bits will usually get the job done so this makes the most sense to try first or at least on the way thru.

[jippa]

I can think of much better stuff to have in cans.lol

A local guy came to see me last night. He is going to fix. He has a special kit that uses left hand drill bits so th stud remnants wont tighten as you drill. He said in a lot of cases the stud bit comes out while drilling.

left handed drill bits sound good.. i want some

im upgrading my turb to a high flow.. swapped 2 of my mountain bikes for it.. was thinking of doing it myself but it could turn into a nightmare so might leave it to the pros.. hope all ends up well for u.. sourced yourself a new turb yet?

Edited November 11, 2008 by jippa

[DaveB]

I can think of much better stuff to have in cans.lol

A local guy came to see me last night. He is going to fix. He has a special kit that uses left hand drill bits so th stud remnants wont tighten as you drill. He said in a lot of cases the stud bit comes out while drilling.

Sorry to hear you're having such a hard time of it... my old studs all came out pretty easy with just a lock-nut and ratchet. They look near new. I was beginning to wonder if there was anything to this stud problem... but sounds like you have the proof. Taking any pics along the way?

[66yostagea]

left handed drill bits sound good.. i want some

im upgrading my turb to a high flow.. swapped 2 of my mountain bikes for it.. was thinking of doing it myself but it could turn into a nightmare so might leave it to the pros.. hope all ends up well for u.. sourced yourself a new turb yet?

Actually it transpired there was SFA wrong with the turbo but I have got a spare JIC. I"m takink pics all the way. When saga is over will post all.

Incidently, what are the best type of studs, I will be replacing all of them.

Edited November 11, 2008 by 66yostagea

[Tangles]

Nissan genuine studs Id say

good for 100,000kms really.

[66yostagea]

Nissan genuine studs Id say

good for 100,000kms really.

Nissan just quoted $200 for the three gaskets. I wonder what they want for the studs?

[wolverine]

$2-3 at a guess

one of the traders here at SAU seems to be getting good prices on gaskets etc in the FS section

Edited November 11, 2008 by wolverine

[DaveB]

$2-3 at a guess

one of the traders here at SAU seems to be getting good prices on gaskets etc in the FS section

Damn, wish I knew that before I paid a couple hundred for gaskets

Yeah I used genuine nissan ones; I have a picture of the packet around here somewhere... they cost me ~$40 for a dozen I think? Which is the absolute maximum it should cost you really. There's nothing special about them; just mild steel although they do have some fancy high-temp coating. But the ones I took out were at least 110,000 K's old and they looked near new (just a little duller) so yeah put them in with some nickel-based high-temperature anti-sieze anti-bind compound (a tiny tiny bit on the end threads of the stud) when you put them in the block and they should be fine for at least another 100,000K's.

[DaveB]

Here we are... genuine Nissan nuts (conical type locking):

...and the genuine Nissan studs & hi-temp anti-sieze/bind compound I used on the studs:

Nuts cost me ~$21 for a dozen ()

Studs cost me ~$50 for a dozen ( ) so I was had a little there... but they were just down the road and it was convenience factor Now studs are done

btw, spoke to the turbo guy and the first thing he recommended was to change out all old studs if possible and re-fit exhaust manifold after checking for cracks; which apparently are usually small and white and often seen running through the pale blue/grey sections of the exhaust manifold (which are where it has become really hot).

You can see a few of these blueish-grey areas here:

...fairly obvious where they are eh

Good luck all

PS Gee u get some crud building up in the exhaust ports...

Edited November 11, 2008 by DaveB

[Xmetal]

I wonder if you could spray some upper cylinder cleaner in there and use a toothbrush to clean them out?

Takers?

[DaveB]

Not knowing which valves are open or closed means not knowing which cylinders the stuff will fall straight into; I had a bit of a go with the small brass-bristled brush which is why you can see some of it chipped away, but I didn't want to go too far in over the valves. I'm just hoping that using good fuel (ie. Ultimate or VPower) will keep it clean...

[Xmetal]

It doesn't matter if you get UCC in the cylinders, it's designed to burn off if it gets into the combustion chambers - you'll find that the car will blow a shitload of white smoke for about 10secs but it'll clear up after.

[_Ryan_]

It doesn't matter if you get UCC in the cylinders, it's designed to burn off if it gets into the combustion chambers - you'll find that the car will blow a shitload of white smoke for about 10secs but it'll clear up after.

no flames?

[KiwiRS4T]

I wonder if you could spray some upper cylinder cleaner in there and use a toothbrush to clean them out?

Takers?

Tooth brush? Were talking cast iron here - get one of those wire brushes you put in a drill and give it heaps.

[DaveB]

Tooth brush? Were talking cast iron here - get one of those wire brushes you put in a drill and give it heaps.

That's what I used to clean just inside the ports... but I was too worried about debris/bits of metal bristles getting in the cylinders to go any deeper