Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i was just looking through this thread and saw the discussion about lammy426's power figures. you have to remember he is in england, and it's winter over there, so nice chilly air temps which will give much better power. if he was to bring it to australia and run it on a 30 degree day it would ping it's arse off and he would be making much less power. also lammy, you say "at the hubs" does that mean you are using a hub dyno? if so, they are known to give different results to wheel dynos

this one was done in winter but it was in a heated workshop,hub dyno's are more accurate than a wheel dyno ,and don't forget tiger white still as 10whp more than me but i don't know if theres much temp difference from aus to nz,anyway i still have a few bits to do so i might crack his record out of an rb25de+t

hub dynos might be more accurate than wheel dynos, but they often give totally different results. basically my point is, unless the 2 cars are run on the same dyno on the same day and tied down the same, you can't really compare them.

hub dynos might be more accurate than wheel dynos, but they often give totally different results. basically my point is, unless the 2 cars are run on the same dyno on the same day and tied down the same, you can't really compare them.

very true ,but i do look at gtst's dyno'd on the same one as mine,the one i have talked to at .85 bar only get around 280bhp ish ath. i've set my goal at 345+ same as tiger white, i don't know if i should get a topmount or a hybrid turbo my tuner said he can get more more power with a bigger wastegate because its creating heat what do you think, oh and he loves driving my car because theres no turbo lag and it'll outdo a gtst with more bhp,not top speed of course as i still have the 4.3 diff in

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
my hiflo stocker arrived i'm going to alter the wastegate and actuator abit before i fit it

all done and dyno'd,now we have 395bhp ath at 15.3 psi,i nearly fell over when he told me ,well pleased

post-46611-1272657565_thumb.jpg

lets see how long it takes for it to blow up lol.

Whatd u do to it and how much mulaa did u have to throw at it? :rofl:

just made the wastegate bigger and fitted a collins 12 psi adjustable actuator,my tuner was just concerned about the hg blowing,what is mulaa

mulaa (moola) = money lol.

Turbo? internals? intake plenum?. You basically bolted on some parts and made close to 400hp?! :rofl:

this is what i've done over 4 years http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142304 and with buying the car completely standard for £1905 and the mods have cost about £4000 with mapping

Hey all Thought I would post up mine as I got the car back from unigroup today.. A few little problems holding me back on power but should be an easy fix.

Model - R34 25GT

Engine - RB25DE

Modifications / Parts Used - R34 stock Turbo, Injectors, Manifold, 3 inch Dump/front pipe, Kakimoto Full Mega N1 exhaust, Walbro fuel pump

Engine Management Used - Power Fc with hand controller for R34 Neo

Fuel Used - BP Ultimate 98

Boost Used - 7 PSI

Dyno Tune Results - 160.5 KW at 6500 RPM

Misc- Went with the Power FC for the complete solution although there are a few problems that need to be sorted out. Like blocking the signal that looks for the TCS and sorting out how to operate the Solenoid that controls the valve in the Inlet manifold (if anyone knows a way to do this please let me know)

Costs - Parts: Aprox $2500, Labour: Free as I did all the work myself :blink: and Tune: $750

Allover things went really well.. A few unexpected problems, My VCT is switched off atm as its not getting a consistent amount of voltage so thats killing some power, Boost controller needs to get pulled apart to see what the problem is with it not sending the signal to the solenoid.. The only other real problem is the Valve solenoid thing in the throttle body/manifold, Have stuck it in the Top end range so its always open which is killing some of the low down power.. Having replaced the Stock ECU there is no signal to control it as its not on the GTT model.. If anyone else has had this problem before and found a way to solve it please let me know or if anyone can suggest some ways to control it im all ears.

Once these few problems are sorted It will push out an easy 180+ with real good torque (dont have the exact specs as its not tuned.)

Hey all Thought I would post up mine as I got the car back from unigroup today.. A few little problems holding me back on power but should be an easy fix.

Model - R34 25GT

Engine - RB25DE

Modifications / Parts Used - R34 stock Turbo, Injectors, Manifold, 3 inch Dump/front pipe, Kakimoto Full Mega N1 exhaust, Walbro fuel pump

Engine Management Used - Power Fc with hand controller for R34 Neo

Fuel Used - BP Ultimate 98

Boost Used - 7 PSI

Dyno Tune Results - 160.5 KW at 6500 RPM

Misc- Went with the Power FC for the complete solution although there are a few problems that need to be sorted out. Like blocking the signal that looks for the TCS and sorting out how to operate the Solenoid that controls the valve in the Inlet manifold (if anyone knows a way to do this please let me know)

Costs - Parts: Aprox $2500, Labour: Free as I did all the work myself :blink: and Tune: $750

Allover things went really well.. A few unexpected problems, My VCT is switched off atm as its not getting a consistent amount of voltage so thats killing some power, Boost controller needs to get pulled apart to see what the problem is with it not sending the signal to the solenoid.. The only other real problem is the Valve solenoid thing in the throttle body/manifold, Have stuck it in the Top end range so its always open which is killing some of the low down power.. Having replaced the Stock ECU there is no signal to control it as its not on the GTT model.. If anyone else has had this problem before and found a way to solve it please let me know or if anyone can suggest some ways to control it im all ears.

Once these few problems are sorted It will push out an easy 180+ with real good torque (dont have the exact specs as its not tuned.)

Cara (MissR34) may be able to help with the variable length manifold solenoid that you speak of... reason I suspect so is because she is running a PowerFC on her R34 RB25DE NEO.

Sounds good so far :sick: did your power curve taper off after 5500 RPM or is the power at 6500RPM your peak power? Well done doing all the work yourself, saves a hell of a lot in labour costs! Got pics of the engine bay?

I'll eventually get around to getting another power run done. There's been GReddy EBC, Gearbox Rebuild and Catback Upgrade since the last power run so hopefully should see some improvement.

Cara (MissR34) may be able to help with the variable length manifold solenoid that you speak of... reason I suspect so is because she is running a PowerFC on her R34 RB25DE NEO.

Sounds good so far :yes: did your power curve taper off after 5500 RPM or is the power at 6500RPM your peak power? Well done doing all the work yourself, saves a hell of a lot in labour costs! Got pics of the engine bay?

I'll eventually get around to getting another power run done. There's been GReddy EBC, Gearbox Rebuild and Catback Upgrade since the last power run so hopefully should see some improvement.

I will have to check that out thanks N-dawg.

Peak power is at 6100rpm then tapers off to about 140kw at about 7000. Ill attach the dyno sheet so u can check it out.

I have a pic somewhere of the engine somewhere, just looks stock with all the stock piping etc.. just had to add a bit of 2.5" piping to reach the elbow onto the throttle body.

I managed to fix the boost controller today which is good.. the vaccum hose had been pulled off the part inside the boost controller itself, just loosened the clamp holding it on slid it back and redid the clamps.. Yay for easy fixes :) EBC is a Blitz Dual SBC with 4 presets.. I should set them to 8-9-10-11 haha stupid stock turbo, need to get a GT-RS i thinks..

VCT will be getting fixed on the 18th when it goes back for a retune and up the boost..

post-51757-1273124632_thumb.jpg

Any reason for running that boost level? Did you try more boost to see what the result would be?

Yeah the EBC was playing up and we couldnt figure it out so we could only use standard actuator pressure.. Gonna bump it up to 10 psi now that I fixed it then when the VCT is fixed up it will get a final tune. Will be looking at 180+ Ill get a torque curve as well to show.. Should be very fun at next Texi.. shame its soo far away..

Heres my long awaited (almost) finished product:

post-36975-1273579588_thumb.jpg + post-36975-1273579744_thumb.jpg = post-36975-1273579805_thumb.jpg =

Afirstdynogt3076rsmaller.jpg

and good times :thumbsup:

We actually got it 5kw shy of 300 but wanted to make it safe as possible: @18psi this has a max knock of 20 which is nothing

Heres my long awaited (almost) finished product:

post-36975-1273579588_thumb.jpg + post-36975-1273579744_thumb.jpg = post-36975-1273579805_thumb.jpg =

Afirstdynogt3076rsmaller.jpg

and good times :thumbsup:

We actually got it 5kw shy of 300 but wanted to make it safe as possible: @18psi this has a max knock of 20 which is nothing

nice wastegate,good work,whats 283kw in bhp and is that with standard rb25de internals and head gasket,thanks john

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
×
×
  • Create New...