Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys im currently building a 400+kw rb25/30 retaining vct

my head is currently being machined and I need to know what the maximum diameter is that I can drill out the head oil drains?

I have a -12 headoil drain also and restrictors etc but I will be doing the above also, any info or feed bad muchly appreciated

Corey

I understand 10mm but haven't done it myself. You also have to relieve the tops of those holes and the other drains.
  • 5 months later...

Hi, i know this has been asked but i haven't seen an answer to it, has anyone got the internal VCT feed working and controlling oil issues to the head on a track engine?

what feeds are people running to the head when not using an external VCT but the internal drill feed method?

Hi, i know this has been asked but i haven't seen an answer to it, has anyone got the internal VCT feed working and controlling oil issues to the head on a track engine?

what feeds are people running to the head when not using an external VCT but the internal drill feed method?

Ive never had this mod running tried it on two different engines with 1.5mm Restrictors and n1 oil pumps.

ended up doing the tried and proven method of external oil feed.

Hi, i know this has been asked but i haven't seen an answer to it, has anyone got the internal VCT feed working and controlling oil issues to the head on a track engine?

what feeds are people running to the head when not using an external VCT but the internal drill feed method?

I am not sure if the internal VCT feed method got past the great theory stage. I have seen a couple of people who have tried and failed - don't remember seeing anyone who has actually done it successfully. Anyway don't really see how it relates to oil control problems - you still need restrictors at least and with RB30s I would say you need sump breathers.

hey guys im deleting vct on my 25/30 still running hydraulic lifters though, iv removed and plugged the vct solenoid in the head, obviously the bottom of the head is welded (the vct feed area). and I have 2x 1.2mm oil restrictors is there anything else I need to do?

  • 3 months later...

Hey I read on the Webbers guide page for oil feed mods and it says " R34 NEO heads can be ran without NVCS as there is a normal oil feed" Can anyone confirm this? Or do you think an external feed should still be done?

Cheers Chris

Hey I read on the Webbers guide page for oil feed mods and it says " R34 NEO heads can be ran without NVCS as there is a normal oil feed" Can anyone confirm this? Or do you think an external feed should still be done?

Cheers Chris

Got a link to the guide you were reading?

Oh ok well I intend on keeping vct. But must have read it the wrong way. So I'll still need the external line. Thanx fellas

I'm not saying the internal feed won't work - just that people on this forum recently have tried and failed. If you look at Webber's site (link above) you'll find instructions on how he did it.

Yea I didn't think u could do it internally. From what I read on webers I was under the impression u didn't have to run a external line, even if u wanted to keep vct as the neo operates a different way. But guess it can't so External it is. Thanks guys

  • 1 year later...

drilled from one feed to the other .. get the angle right or you could end up with oil where you dont want it

attachicon.gifphotos phone 001.jpg

picky of where I drilled between the first 2 (intake) cam journals

attachicon.gifphotos phone 004.jpg

Drilled and tapped the outer layer to take a bung

attachicon.gifphotos phone 009.jpg

Dummy fitted the bung to show what it looks like finished

attachicon.gifphotos phone 011.jpg

Head was then dissassembled for further mods before being cleaned an reassembled

Hope this helps people

Hey I realise I'm digging up an old post but can you (boost is good) or anybody else help with this mod to the neo head?

This is easy BUT how on earth to you prevent getting chips in the oil gallery below that will be spat through the motor in the future? You obviously can't get to the inside of that oil gallery easily so have you just ignored this? Can you take the plug out of the front and the ball bearing and spring etc and clean it out?

I just notice people talking about external feeds on Neo heads again in here, I can't understand why you'd go external if you can do a rock solid internal mod?

  • Like 1

Hey I realise I'm digging up an old post but can you (boost is good) or anybody else help with this mod to the neo head?

This is easy BUT how on earth to you prevent getting chips in the oil gallery below that will be spat through the motor in the future? You obviously can't get to the inside of that oil gallery easily so have you just ignored this? Can you take the plug out of the front and the ball bearing and spring etc and clean it out?

I just notice people talking about external feeds on Neo heads again in here, I can't understand why you'd go external if you can do a rock solid internal mod?

You drill it with the head off and blow it out.

  • 2 weeks later...

absolutely brilliant. i was thinkin of doing this also with mine but there wasnt alot of people willing to try it back then and also time was an issue so i went with external. might have to re-visit this! less points of failure!.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...