Jump to content
SAU Community

What The Heck Is Wrong With My Car!?

SL33KY

By SL33KY,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

SL33KY Community Regular

SL33KY

Posted
Posted

Hi All,

Apoligies if this is not posted in the correct section. Here's the run down on what my car is doing...

About a week ago when I was on my way back from Parramatta, my car started (this is just driving normally, no boosting) started jolting forwards and backwards like I was a learner bunny hopping. I couldnt accelerate through it and when I tried it just got worse, the revs were flucuating and a big black cloud of smoke came out the back of the exhaust, I drove around the corner and the car turned itself off. I managed to pull over, checked under bonnet and nothing seemed out of place, I turned the car off for a little while, it started back up fine. This happened a few times on the trip home... When the car is at idle, the revs fluctuate between 1000rpm-500rmp, then below 500rpm then eventually the car dies and turns off.

This problems happens intermittantly, not 24/7 when I drive. I took it to my mechanic who hooked it up to the comp, determined the problem to be a faulty boost controller which they removed and gave back to me (this is a GFB Boost T). Picked the car up yesterday afternoon... Got no more than 5km down the road and LOW AND BEHOLD same problem, just worse! They seem to think that there is a hissing sound coming from my engine where is may be air leaking from somewhere...

Any thoughts guys, this is frustrating the hell out of me, help would be appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251766-what-the-heck-is-wrong-with-my-car/
Share on other sites
GODGIKO Rookie

GODGIKO

Posted
Posted

It could be numerous things really? if it drives normally then decides to fluctuate and die at idle it could be something to do with your sparkies or dizzy cap? I know i had a similar probably like that before causing a misfire in one of the pistons? soo check that out. It could also be your transmission not engaging and disengaging properly ?? soo you might need to troubleshoot with that a bit as well.

GoldZilla Grand Master

GoldZilla

Posted
Posted

Ummm, R33 Skylines DO NOT use a distributor system, they use an igniter and direct-fire coils.

Here are a few minor things to check:

  • are you sure it's nothing to do with your alarm and/or immobiliser shorting out somewhere or playing up, and therefore cutting off your spark and/or fuel?
  • when the engine is COLD, remove the radiator lid, start the car (if it will start), and see if there are any bubbles appearing in the radiator fluid. This could indicate a blown head gasket...
  • when the engine is OFF, remove your oil filler cap, and see if the oil looks dark and "clean," or if it's a cream-cloured sludge. Do you know if it was blowing a bluish-grey smoke out of the exhaust at all? This is another sign of a blown head gasket, as the oil and water are mixing and creating that sludge.

HOWEVER, considering you saw a big puff of black smoke, I'd say it's either a massive dump of unburnt fuel, or your car is burning oil, which could mean a few things are wrong, including blown piston rings, or maybe even a blown piston...

I'd suggest taking it to a (different) mechanic, and getting them to investigate a bit further. I doubt it has THAT much to do with your boost controller.

SL33KY Community Regular

SL33KY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

When it's not having the issue it doesn't blow any smoke, only when it surges will it blow smoke... I did notice however yesterday on the way home when it started again, I could smell fuel really strong from inside the car... Could it possibly be the fuel pump? They reckon they checked the coils, ignitors everything! Apparently it was hooked up to a computer on the dyno. The car usually runs lean and sometimes has a slight smell of fuel (only very small)

Count Grantleyish Grand Master

Count Grantleyish

Posted
Posted

Clean or borrow someone's AFM first and see what happens. Cos I'm certain it's the AFM from these problems you've described.

If not that, look at coilpacks.

HEKT1K Grand Master

HEKT1K

Posted
Posted

hmm a similar thing happened to me today too, my car does idle pretty rough (after cleaning out my AAC valve just yesterday wtf!?), but it doesn't so much bunny hop as it seems to lag, although i can hear the turbo spooling and the boost gauge responding.

:cool: could it possibly be the AFM?

tbag Community Regular

tbag

Posted
Posted
Check for vacuum leaks, the hissing sound could be air escaping/leaking somewhere and can cause the idle hunting your getting. Also can't hurt to clean the AFM whilst your at it.

+1

i had the hissing noises, felt like it was missing and strong smell of fuel, ended up being a vac leak

SL33KY Community Regular

SL33KY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I'm still waiting to hear from my mechanic at the moment but I'll certainly let you all know what the go is once I know for everyone's future reference if you hit the same issue. :P I'm hoping it's nothing major...

sneaky1 Mentor

sneaky1

Posted
Posted

borrow someones AFM and test it. mate had a problem like this in his 34. he soldered all the joints in the AFM again and it went sweet as. was good when cold but when it warmed up it spat the dummy. but at all diff times. depending on how much of a hard time he gave it. once he did that never had trouble since. best way i think is get it warn and take the plug off the AFM and see what it does. when its dissconnected it should blow black smoke and be runnin rough or stop.

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted
It could be numerous things really? if it drives normally then decides to fluctuate and die at idle it could be something to do with your sparkies or dizzy cap? I know i had a similar probably like that before causing a misfire in one of the pistons? soo check that out. It could also be your transmission not engaging and disengaging properly ?? soo you might need to troubleshoot with that a bit as well.

Did your mummy tell you that you could use her computer?

air flow meter . end of storey . does it sound like a rotary with a lumpy idle when you try drive it and it bunny hops?

Dont be so sure, i have the same problem but it is happening all the time, no vac or boost leeks and i have changed the afm but nothing has fixed it so far.

SL33KY Community Regular

SL33KY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi all,

Got that phone call from the mechanic yesterday I was waiting on. Results are that it was a combination of 3 things...

1. Cracked faulty boost controller (it's a GFB boost t)

2. AFM (yes you were all right thanks guys)

3. BOV, something had actually gotten inside mine and was clogging it

I'm having a top of the line Gizzmo in car boost controller installed, it has 6 phases and a 15second extra boost interval.

So I'm picking it up this afternoon, I'm really hoping that this is all fixed. Thanks for all your input, appreciated. :yes::D

08yannch Rising Star

08yannch

Posted
Posted

i had the a similar problem the car just shat it self after i did some work to it and i went throw and checked every thing i had know idea what was wrong. my dad had a look and a plug wasn't pushed in properly and u know what it was the AFM it wasn't plugged in properly.

it is always the one thing that u forget to check lol

like my uncle he has a old monaro with every thing done to it mid 2 low 10sec car and one day it just shat it self and died and he didn't know why. he thinks that it was the alarm that he just fitted so he takes it to the mechanic the guy reaches under the car and knocks on the gas tank it was bone dry. omg lol lol lol i was like.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • MBS206
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By MBS206 · Posted

      When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

    • Rezz
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By Rezz · Posted

      Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • Kinkstaah
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...