Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'll throw up my little 2 cents with this 4WD vs RWD garbage.

On unigroups dyno a few years ago I made 370 RWKW.

One week later I made 361 AWKW on Rigoli's dyno at a Dyno day.

I realise they are different dynos's and stuff but they are my results.

paul u skippy big mass of muscle - you've been hanging out with refaat too long (off topic)

anyway, a dyno should only ever be used to measure gain as every dyno will read differently

paul u skippy big mass of muscle - you've been hanging out with refaat too long (off topic)

anyway, a dyno should only ever be used to measure gain as every dyno will read differently

Haha. He is a unit!

Yeah I realise that. Thats why I said "I realise they are two different machines".

Just got mine retuned.. stock un opened Neo RB25det. 3076, E85 and twin 044's, 80lb deka injectors, nistune and z32.. about to run out of scale on the afm map too.

result was 392 rwkw on 19 psi.

p1010570.jpg

Edited by Simon-R32

I cant believe it, really.

19psi is really low boost for that power level. Especially a .63 housing.

this dyno is ready 50-60kw high........

even if you take 60kw off that result a 3076 wont flow 330rwkw at 19 psi... >_<

so you really think your car is makining 397rwkw on a HUB dyno with STP correction?

considering HUBs dont even read rwkw and STP is the highest correction there is, it would realistically make 310-320rwkw on a mainline dyno. :cheers:

At 19psi you would make 330rwkw tops, that would be pushing it too.

Take it to the track and post your MPH. That will give a clearer idea, rather than having to decipher a weird dyno result.

Or put it on a Mainline.

The AMM dyno strikes again! Go take that full fudge result and pour it over some ice-cream and enjoy it that way. About all its good for.

That dyno is @ the hubs, and you need to take 50-60kw off if you want to get realistic. Stop claiming it as RWKW when it's not.

It is miss leading users of this forum that might otherwise not know better. Not 2 days ago there was a guy i was talking too who was genuinely under the impression that the result was legit and that factory RB25's will hold 350rwkw+ :(

Even @ 330rwkw on E85/.63 - that is pushing then limits of believable. But at least its almost believable rather than outright fudge.

At 19psi you would make 330rwkw tops, that would be pushing it too.

Take it to the track and post your MPH.

Exactly what I said to the same tuner 2 weeks ago on another forum.

This apparent "gun" tuner - was making wild claims that a 3076/.82/19psi made 370rwkw on PULP because it was a "freak" motor. The thing was factory. :rolleyes:

Same as I said then - and will say now - I'll pay the entry fees and a tank of fuel if the car runs 128MPH+. No if's, no buts. Cash is here when the prove is given.

It would be cheaper and easier for a few SAU'ers to chip in $5 each and stick another car on this dyno and dynodynamics or mainline and see what numbers it spits out.

my car has been on it. spat out 411kw. i already know its BS

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...