Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol, you mean lucky me? surely PI isnt that hard to get a car into??

yea i like that... but that goes on glass, is the one for behind the driver, mounted on the cross bar of a cage?

lol sorry what I meant is that any magazine article done on your car is a good thing, not everyone can say their car has been in a magazine :)

That mount can go on panels outside also but i know what you mean, you need one with a ring grip on it yeah? like these - http://www.camzilla.com.au/products/clamp-mounts

  • 1 month later...

Bumping this thread; a current 400kw club member got off the rollers last night with a slightly higher reading than before. The car is an animal now!

Anyone else breaking into the 400's lately?

I'll only list a few of the major mods

R33 GTR motor

Cp pistons

Eagle Rods

Tomei oil pump

Trust 264/272 cams

Tidy'd up head ports

Arp studs through out the motor

Precision 6765 still with T3 rear housing .82

Haltec ecu

1600cc Indy whites

442kw at the wheels on 26psi.

I've now ordered at T4 divided rear 1.00 so should make some better numbers..

Edited by 26_S13

Holy wheelspin batman!!!

With normal street tyres yeah, just cruising along in 4th and put ya foot down it would start baking as soon as it come onto boost.. But with 275 Micky t ET streets it hooks up and goes, cars not manual anymore though, just bought a 2 speed for it.

Our race car cracked 441rwkws/592rwhp the other week.

RB30DET

6boost mani w/ gt35r 1.06 rear 45mm progate.

STD gtr plenum & throttles adapted to 25 head

Domed CP Pistons

Custom ring set

Spool I beam rods

Kelford 264in/272ex 10.2mm

Light Port work

1mm oversize inlet valves, 2mm oversize ex

bosch 2000cc squirters

Running off gate pressure cracks 23psi by 4000rpm from memory and then bleeds off down to 19psi by redline @ 7500. Peak power is around 6500rpm at about 20psi. Need to hook up and setup a boost controller to hold 23psi to redline.

Not a bad effort for a 35r. I will try and find the printout, though I think my old man has it somewhere.

Sorry that was using straight methanol.

Yeh it did it quite easily too. If we can get it hold the 23psi to redline, I would reckon it would easily crack over 600rwhp. First run it was at 17psi which for some reason it could hold to redline, Im guessing back pressure was at an equal level to intake pressure so the wastegate could manage it at which it made about 510rwhp. Then I changed the spring setup to a 24 psi combo and it only went to 23psi and bled back as I was saying in the other post. But at only a few psi more then the previous run it oozed out another 80 odd hp which was unexpected.

The great bit about the alcohol is the car stays nice and cool, water temps stay in check, oil doesnt get warm enough which is actually abit worrisome and the inlet manifold is cool constantly with the fuel rail chilly. It is amazing stuff.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shouldn't need a "base map" for anything other than guidance to ignition tuning. You just need the engine capacity right, the injector size right, and something, almost anything, for a VE map. On an NA engine, fuelling is almost completely a function of load signal & rpm. It should run and drive with a completely flat fuel map. It will be too lean under load, but that's easily fixed. We used to tune all ECUs without any base map. There were no such things (until someone had tuned a near stock engine on one, and then they had a "base map".
    • What did you actually buy/how much did it cost? When I got mine in like.. 2017...? 2019? the aim was to run Torque for gauges via ODB2 and things like Track Addict/Laptimers/Dashcam/Reversecam/Spotify etc. Mine never broke, but I wonder if you've got the same needs (it sounds like it). Cause I liked the idea of being able to do anything with it. That said, yours also cost 3x the cost of what I spent so... food for thought.  
    • For me there is a massive difference in manufacturer or big brand crippled android (Sony, Kenwood etc) vs the sort of thing I've installed here, which is basically just a tablet in DIN form factor with open Android, and the other model of course is mirroring - Android Auto/Carplay. I hate the locked down manufacturer and AA options where they decide what apps I'm allowed to install, including the Launcher but also importantly things like Ecutek (for this car) or Real Dash (Stagea) are not supported. Plus those crippled versions tend to be slower due to both overheads and lower spec hardware. On the other hand, when this breaks I'll likely be in trouble for support....but how is that different to owning an Infiniti anyway
    • Yeah, Duncan is helping sell me back to Android devices. I've hated the whole Android head units due to their speed issues. Even in my old Hyundai Kona (2022 model), it behind the scenes was Android, and slow and shitty to start up. Once running wasn't bad, but still a good 15 to 30 seconds.
    • My roof rails are off atm on the E39 until the rust is fixed. I did find another little bit of surface rust under the rails when I took them off. As @soviet_merlin said I'd just leave them alone unless you're planning on ensuring they're properly sealed. I was on the fence about leaving them off as the delete is still a thing in BMW E39's but I feel like the car is missing something (er, it is, der) with them off and I'm looking forward to putting them back on.
×
×
  • Create New...