Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you had to use a single turbo to make 400 - 450kw ATW, what would you use ?

GTX3582R, GT3788R, T04Z ???

gogogo !

Normally I would go the Z because it won't stop at 560-600 but the 3788 will spool faster. If you don't want any more than 560-580 then the 3788 is perfect, after that, the Z is still comparable for response with the 0.99 housing on the 3788

Alright lads,

Descision has been made.

http://www.gcg.com.au/AllImage/Products/Garrett%20Spec%20Sheets/gt3788r_772719-1.jpg

For those who don't want to click the link, it's the GT3788R from GCG here in aus, very reasonably priced too actually.

only question remains.

What rear ?

0.89

0.99

1.11

I'm thinking 0.99

Alright lads,

Descision has been made.

http://www.gcg.com.a...8r_772719-1.jpg

For those who don't want to click the link, it's the GT3788R from GCG here in aus, very reasonably priced too actually.

only question remains.

What rear ?

0.89

0.99

1.11

I'm thinking 0.99

Will you be going for low exhaust manifold back pressure and cams with some overlap? If you are, then go the larger rear housing but expect less performance at lower rpm.

If you don't have a lot of head porting and have zero overlap go the smallest.

I am not sure what the runner diameter of the 6Boost manifold and the lengths of the runners but that is also a consideration.

You need to choose which direction you want to set up your engine and turbocharger.

Low back pressure system: significant head porting, properly design tubular manifold, larger A/R turbine housing and camsahfts with some overlap... aim for 1:1 exhaust manifold pressure and boost pressure.

High back pressure system: the OEM turbocharger set up is a perfect example, higher exhaust manifold back pressure to boost (i.e. maybe 2/2.5/3.0 - 1), no overlap, short manifold runners, small A/R turbine housing.

You can't do a mix of both as each one will characterise how the engine will perform.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...