Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^^ u should know, your a massive keyboard warrior.

You can't upset me tonight man, Crows beat Port in showdown.

I can't remember, when I looked into the Autronic 3yrs ago for my GTR you still had to run wasted spark.

plugin Links/Vipecs are wasted spark i'm pretty sure, only the wire-ins are sequential

i remember asking Rob @ RIPS about it, said he didn't really see the need unless it was a serious motorsport application.

My Civic had just a little under 400kw.

K20/K26 (JDM K20A2 Head)

Darton MID Wet Sleeves

4 Piston Racing Crank

CP Pistons (9.0:1CR)

Pauter Rods

GT4088

16psi made 520.80hp.

Geesus.. show us your torque steer eh?

Geesus.. show us your torque steer eh?

exactly what I was thinking, being a fwd it would have major traction issues BUT making that power is easy with any engine as it is just an air pump...put a big enough snail on it and it will make the power

the plug in vipec and links are non sequential batch fire. aka z18et spec..

the wire ins are the way to go. the fact you have to hack up a standard ecu case to fit them aswell is a pain..

the haltech is quite good as it has all the built in knock control and is a "plug and play".

rb25 has forged pistons and rods, n1 pump with crank collar and ross "power steering belt flinging" balancer.

the plug in vipec and links are non sequential batch fire. aka z18et spec..

the wire ins are the way to go. the fact you have to hack up a standard ecu case to fit them aswell is a pain..

they have 4 ignition drivers and 8 injector drivers on the skyline plugin and come standard with a 3bar map sensor as of june/july last year (2.5bar before that).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...