Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive tried searching, but i cant really find the answer. can someone tell me roughly how much a standard r33 gtr incooler can support up to??

Im going in for a tune and im hoping to see around 360kws. should i upgrade before the tune or should it be fine?

Thanks

well i was thinking if anyone would know if itll be fine for 360 it would be people who have seen 360 and shot way past it :P

If it was so good he wouldnt have replaced it for a Greddy one in his 360kw 33 that his selling, the cooler wasnt designed for those power levels and you cant argue that it is 100% efficient. It might do the job but its not going to do it as good as a bigger unit.

Anyways not going to stir the pot, 400kw you will be hearing from me soon :P

Edited by nomnomv8

lol - I didn't replace it, it came with the car. I wouldn't waste my money on one.

We actually thought it was stock until 6 months after when I had it on a hoist/front bar off etc - given results/performance were no different to stock cooler equipped examples.

I could give you a list of cars making 380-400rwkw on stock coolers if you like? no issues at all.

lol - I didn't replace it, it came with the car. I wouldn't waste my money on one.

We actually thought it was stock until 6 months after when I had it on a hoist/front bar off etc - given results/performance were no different to stock cooler equipped examples.

I could give you a list of cars making 380-400rwkw on stock coolers if you like? no issues at all.

Yes please

lol - I didn't replace it, it came with the car. I wouldn't waste my money on one.

We actually thought it was stock until 6 months after when I had it on a hoist/front bar off etc - given results/performance were no different to stock cooler equipped examples.

I could give you a list of cars making 380-400rwkw on stock coolers if you like? no issues at all.

So it's proven that a standard cooler can support big power, but would a big dollar brand name one be more efficient and help to make more/earlier power?

Personal choice at the end of the day.

I wouldn't run that much power with a stock cooler and nor would I run aftermarket bov's.

Ive always based my choice on what the majority have done with their cars.

This will turn into a heated debate so let's leave it at that :)

So it's proven that a standard cooler can support big power, but would a big dollar brand name one be more efficient and help to make more/earlier power?

We actually thought it was stock until 6 months after when I had it on a hoist/front bar off etc - given results/performance were no different to stock cooler equipped examples.

My power, temps are no different with a GReddy core (that I didn't know I had). Guess you missed that post.

But spend big if you want on the 'big mark up' Jap items that are coming outta China at the end of the day anyway. Look forward to reading your testing and if you see any temp differences at the circuit, i didn't.

I mean I know for a fact a few local Aus 'brands' have been ex-China for over 4 years. That's another argument entirely however :)

I mean I know for a fact a few local Aus 'brands' have been ex-China for over 4 years. That's another argument entirely however :)

yup i like the "brands" vs china debates they always make me giggle.

I have a spare plasmaman cooler which is a real work of art.

Has to be better than the HDI cooler which was fitted to my gtr when.I bought it back?

Ash, have u heard much about plasma man? They charge a bomb but very nice quality and they do make them onsite :)

My power, temps are no different with a GReddy core (that I didn't know I had). Guess you missed that post.

But spend big if you want on the 'big mark up' Jap items that are coming outta China at the end of the day anyway. Look forward to reading your testing and if you see any temp differences at the circuit, i didn't.

I mean I know for a fact a few local Aus 'brands' have been ex-China for over 4 years. That's another argument entirely however :)

Its not China its worse..Thailand !! Well at least one major Japanese manufacturer has gear made there.

My power, temps are no different with a GReddy core (that I didn't know I had).

What where the dimensions of your GReddy cooler?

Personal choice at the end of the day.

I wouldn't run that much power with a stock cooler and nor would I run aftermarket bov's.

Ive always based my choice on what the majority have done with their cars.

This will turn into a heated debate so let's leave it at that :)

This.

People are forgetting that coolers are basically a heat sink, a heat sink that's in this case 20 years old and was designed to cater for "206kw" at the fly... not almost double that at the wheels!

Common sense, a cooler thats 600 x 300 with a depth of 60mm does not have more volume than a cooler thats the same dimensions and 100mm thick and at those power levels mentioned you have to have rocks in your brain not to realise that. Look at the Nismo coolers for example I guess that their engineers are dumwits and idiots not knowing that their 100mm thick coolers are useless because some nobody from a workshop in Australia said so.

The point im trying to make is when you have already spent $10,000+ to get your 360kw+ car you think that you would do it right and invest that couple of hundred more after selling your uber cool OEM GTR cooler to a GTS-T owner..

Each to their own I guess, il do things the way they work for me, everyone is entitled to an opinion and while my opinion might be seen as "worthless spending" so be it, rather that than do what i believe is stupid and goes behind any engineering principle

I got my results with 2/3 of a standard 76mm Greddy cooler. A full one would be fine for 400kw, so would a stock GTR one as proven already. Why change what doesn't need changing is most peoples opinion.

As with stock/aftermarket radiators, thick coolers aren't as efficient at cooling as the back of it is always seeing warm air, plus you pay the lag penalty most cant afford at this power.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...