Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive tried searching, but i cant really find the answer. can someone tell me roughly how much a standard r33 gtr incooler can support up to??

Im going in for a tune and im hoping to see around 360kws. should i upgrade before the tune or should it be fine?

Thanks

well i was thinking if anyone would know if itll be fine for 360 it would be people who have seen 360 and shot way past it :P

If it was so good he wouldnt have replaced it for a Greddy one in his 360kw 33 that his selling, the cooler wasnt designed for those power levels and you cant argue that it is 100% efficient. It might do the job but its not going to do it as good as a bigger unit.

Anyways not going to stir the pot, 400kw you will be hearing from me soon :P

Edited by nomnomv8

lol - I didn't replace it, it came with the car. I wouldn't waste my money on one.

We actually thought it was stock until 6 months after when I had it on a hoist/front bar off etc - given results/performance were no different to stock cooler equipped examples.

I could give you a list of cars making 380-400rwkw on stock coolers if you like? no issues at all.

lol - I didn't replace it, it came with the car. I wouldn't waste my money on one.

We actually thought it was stock until 6 months after when I had it on a hoist/front bar off etc - given results/performance were no different to stock cooler equipped examples.

I could give you a list of cars making 380-400rwkw on stock coolers if you like? no issues at all.

Yes please

lol - I didn't replace it, it came with the car. I wouldn't waste my money on one.

We actually thought it was stock until 6 months after when I had it on a hoist/front bar off etc - given results/performance were no different to stock cooler equipped examples.

I could give you a list of cars making 380-400rwkw on stock coolers if you like? no issues at all.

So it's proven that a standard cooler can support big power, but would a big dollar brand name one be more efficient and help to make more/earlier power?

Personal choice at the end of the day.

I wouldn't run that much power with a stock cooler and nor would I run aftermarket bov's.

Ive always based my choice on what the majority have done with their cars.

This will turn into a heated debate so let's leave it at that :)

So it's proven that a standard cooler can support big power, but would a big dollar brand name one be more efficient and help to make more/earlier power?

We actually thought it was stock until 6 months after when I had it on a hoist/front bar off etc - given results/performance were no different to stock cooler equipped examples.

My power, temps are no different with a GReddy core (that I didn't know I had). Guess you missed that post.

But spend big if you want on the 'big mark up' Jap items that are coming outta China at the end of the day anyway. Look forward to reading your testing and if you see any temp differences at the circuit, i didn't.

I mean I know for a fact a few local Aus 'brands' have been ex-China for over 4 years. That's another argument entirely however :)

I mean I know for a fact a few local Aus 'brands' have been ex-China for over 4 years. That's another argument entirely however :)

yup i like the "brands" vs china debates they always make me giggle.

I have a spare plasmaman cooler which is a real work of art.

Has to be better than the HDI cooler which was fitted to my gtr when.I bought it back?

Ash, have u heard much about plasma man? They charge a bomb but very nice quality and they do make them onsite :)

My power, temps are no different with a GReddy core (that I didn't know I had). Guess you missed that post.

But spend big if you want on the 'big mark up' Jap items that are coming outta China at the end of the day anyway. Look forward to reading your testing and if you see any temp differences at the circuit, i didn't.

I mean I know for a fact a few local Aus 'brands' have been ex-China for over 4 years. That's another argument entirely however :)

Its not China its worse..Thailand !! Well at least one major Japanese manufacturer has gear made there.

My power, temps are no different with a GReddy core (that I didn't know I had).

What where the dimensions of your GReddy cooler?

Personal choice at the end of the day.

I wouldn't run that much power with a stock cooler and nor would I run aftermarket bov's.

Ive always based my choice on what the majority have done with their cars.

This will turn into a heated debate so let's leave it at that :)

This.

People are forgetting that coolers are basically a heat sink, a heat sink that's in this case 20 years old and was designed to cater for "206kw" at the fly... not almost double that at the wheels!

Common sense, a cooler thats 600 x 300 with a depth of 60mm does not have more volume than a cooler thats the same dimensions and 100mm thick and at those power levels mentioned you have to have rocks in your brain not to realise that. Look at the Nismo coolers for example I guess that their engineers are dumwits and idiots not knowing that their 100mm thick coolers are useless because some nobody from a workshop in Australia said so.

The point im trying to make is when you have already spent $10,000+ to get your 360kw+ car you think that you would do it right and invest that couple of hundred more after selling your uber cool OEM GTR cooler to a GTS-T owner..

Each to their own I guess, il do things the way they work for me, everyone is entitled to an opinion and while my opinion might be seen as "worthless spending" so be it, rather that than do what i believe is stupid and goes behind any engineering principle

I got my results with 2/3 of a standard 76mm Greddy cooler. A full one would be fine for 400kw, so would a stock GTR one as proven already. Why change what doesn't need changing is most peoples opinion.

As with stock/aftermarket radiators, thick coolers aren't as efficient at cooling as the back of it is always seeing warm air, plus you pay the lag penalty most cant afford at this power.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...