Jump to content
SAU Community

Replacing The Radiator Fan With Electric Fans. Performance Benifit?

vidospace

By vidospace,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

vidospace Mentor

vidospace

Posted
Posted

I was servicing the car yesterday and saw that the radiator fan is basically on all the time, even though it has a clutch to allow it to spin separatetly to the other belts/pulleys on the engine. It got me to thinking how much power is it acutally taking away from the engine? I assume it could be as much as say the AC compressor? But at the same time I have seen some hardcore RBs with the stock fan in place?

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

juggernaut1
juggernaut1

40 amp current draw ....strewth....throw those in the bin. Also problem with the Davies Craig fans is that they don't draw air through the entire radiator due to the lack of a proper shroud. Look at t

wannaslide Contributor

wannaslide

Posted
Posted
i took mine off and replaced with thermo fans...massive reposonse difference....

so do you really get a response differece that is noticeable cos im after more response

frozenwaffles Mentor

frozenwaffles

Posted
Posted

its jujst got heaps more throttle response... i havent dyno

ed the difference but you can notice it alot when you take your car for the first drive without the fan...

Ultimategtr Proficient

Ultimategtr

Posted
Posted

a bit off topic here but my dads old rd28, we ran it without the thermo fan for a lil while and it seemed to rev alot easier. more responsive, even tho it was diesel.

Iv heard that the gains are offset by the power electric fans use, so go figure. Of course i dont have dyno sheets to prove but only for 2-4 kw its not worth it imo.

Turbo Dave Collaborator

Turbo Dave

Posted
Posted (edited)

This would help me clear my cooler pipe a little easier, any pics? and what sort or thermostat would you use? ECU controlled or manual thermostat?

Edited by Turbo Dave
Bliksem Veteran

Bliksem

Posted
Posted (edited)
ECU controlled or manual thermostat?

You could go either, depending on what ECU you have. There are also thermo fan controllers from Billion, Power Enterprise, davies craig, Pivot etc.

A mate made a circuit for me that I havent gotten around to fitting yet, it just used a pikaxe chip that can be reprogammed.

Edited by MintR33
Jet 20 Enthusiast

Jet 20

Posted
Posted

when the thermo fans are running it will load up the alternator more causing a drain on the engines power, the question is how does this engine power drain compare with the standard fan??

when the thermo's are not running the engine will have better response compared to the standard fan cos the standard fan never fully disengages so to speak.

zoom Community Regular

zoom

Posted
Posted

I remember about 5 years ago when i installed the thermo fan and electric water pumps, the engine revs seemed to be quicker. You can actually notice the car pull harder particularly from mid to high revs. Both the fan and pump have their own controll. You can controll whatever temperature you want.

The down sides are:

1. when the fan activated the alternator will kick in which may cause your engine to hunt for about 10 seconds (this will happens particularly in the traffic and hot day.

2. if the fan died, than your engine will be running to hot. (i haven't had any problem since i installed 5 years ago). :cheers: .

Just have to keep your eyes on the water temp.

carter Enthusiast

carter

Posted
Posted

ive got thermos on my 25 in my cefiro. im running 2x 10'' atm mite get 2x12'' 2 keep it cooler again. ive got it set up2 a switch that has a temp sensor that goes in the top hose wen u hook it upto the radiator, wen my motors usually on i just turn it down to the lowest temp so its always on. ive got a pic 4 u all 2 c as well.

DSCF0688.jpg

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

My experience was that I couldn't get air to flow through the radiator, thus making it easy for the engine to overheat. Even on the highway, a slight uphill gradient increased the load enough that the thermo would turn on.

Also, the A/c radiator relies on the standard fan for some cooling.

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted
when its cold it is more like free wheeling like you can stop it with your hand and hold it (not very smart but do-able)

i did that on my old ca20 blue bird when i was 17... it put a big cut in my palm and you could see raw flesh in there.. i went white lol... to this day i still have the scar.

So yes not very smart

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      Why am I hitting a power wall with my stroked RB25?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Kelford 246-A2. 262in/272ex. 
    • Adam_ECR33
      Hello sau 👋

      By Adam_ECR33 · Posted

      Thank you, 100% the intent. New coils were due and the 17" sixers look/feel loads better than the stock wheels. The aero options are so spot on.   Thanks for the warm welcome, all!
    • JC71
      98 R34GTT 4k engine stumble

      By JC71 · Posted

      98 r34 gtt Been rocking my latest setup and car running like never before. Have put a good 200 miles on it since all the latest changes and additions. everything is dialed in and have been driving it a bunch.   However, all a sudden last weekend as soon as I pushed throttle passed 4k and the engine stumbles, (slow or fast acceleration) hesitates and doesn’t go above 4100 or so, like a misfire. Everything else seems fine. I had a “good” set of coil packs that I removed from car when I first got it when I changed them over to new coils. I swapped out current ones for those, but no change. I also changed the plugs, no change. Seems to rev over 4 when out of gear with no load just fine no “misfire”, but as soon as its in gear with a load of any kind, it “misfires” as soon as rpm drop back below 4 k it runs perfectly, smooth, starts, restarts and drives fine as long as I keep it below 4 k while in gear. All readings look fine, no CEL   Any idea as to what could all a sudden cause an issue when pushing rpms passed 4 k?
    • r32-25t
      Why am I hitting a power wall with my stroked RB25?

      By r32-25t · Posted

      When you say your cams are 272/262 is that 272in and 262ex?
    • Kinkstaah
      Nismo GT Pro LSD configurations

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      We're arguing semantics. I am saying 45 accel and a 55 deccel ramp are "2 ways". Even a 45 degree ramp and an 89 degree ramp is "2 ways", because it is literally... two ways. The cusco 55/30 ramp is a 2 way. It's two ways. I get it though - in normal nomenclature a "2 way" would be 45/45 or 55/55 or 60/60 i.e the same locking in both directions. And something like 45/65 would be considered "1.5 way". I would then say if we're getting into the nitty gritty then every locking diff is a "2 way" diff and we should not speak in 1.5, or 2 ways but ramp angles instead. Which ofc if one of those ramp angles is 90deg, that side is not doing any locking. :p So Nismo don't obviously sell 3 things. The fact of the matter that they only sell two items really goes to show that there's a 2 way and a "1,5 way" which is really a 1 way. I believe the actual lockup for the 'adjustability' of the GT pro is really just setting preload for when the ramps actually start locking up. It's not changing how much 'wayness' there is. It is (somehow) horribly explained. People just buy whatever diff and go "locks up good bruh" and that's what ends up on socials forever.  
×
×
  • Create New...