Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

got my renewal in the post today from shannons. Agreed Value has dropped $4500, not a big deal since its just a shell atm but once complete i'll go in there.

i had this argument with them last renewal they dropped the price of my value by 4 g i asked are you going to drop the premium as well to reflect the new valuation they replied errr no that price stays the same ....me i dont think so sunshine how can it be agreed value if one party does not agree to the changes .

after about 15 mins i got put onto a supervisor who tried the same spiel but i stood firm if im paying a premuim on a car last week was worth 18g and this week your telling me it's worth 14g then the premium has to drop as well lol.

anyway after saying i will take my 3 car policy's elsewhere things started too swing my way with the skyline remaining at 18g and the premium would stay the same . i was also told that they will stick too the agreed value in the future .

the bit that pissed me off is how can they change the agreed value without telling you if i wanted that i would have gotten a market value policy not agreed value .

my rant for the day

I've never claimed, got 1 speeding ticket ever, no crashes, no loss of license.

Odd. You've got a cleaner record than most people out there, including myself...

lets see....

Red light camera fine in my mums sigma(19)

1 speeding fine in my mums sigma (20)

PCA (age 21) in my r31 (crashed)

Driving with undue care (age 21, same incident as above) in my r31 (crashed)

2 speeding fines on the R31 (age 22-24)

2 speeding fines on the VN commodore (25-26)

3 speeding fines on the R32 GTR (28-30)

crashed the r31 twice with the 2nd time being a complete write off, and yet I've always kept my rating 1, regardless of the insurance company (AAMI, Justcars and Shannons)

its weird how they work it out - if I was an insurer I'd be more inclined to give Damo insurance than myself

-D

i might have to have a talk to them about mine, they've sneakily dropped the agreed value of my trailer from 6500 to 5600 :s

rofl how does something as simple as a trailer lose value? bastards

id be grilling a manager if i was u

-D

just got my insurance renewal today from just cars and it says my cars not covered for theft unless i have a immobiliser , do r32 gtrs have some saught of antitheft device on board or do i have to get a immobilizer if i dont want to take the risk other wise theres no point really having the insurance

from memory i dont think that they came with an immobiliser.....but in saying so you should have an alarm on a R specially......speak to Ric at Auto perfections mate.....he knows his stuff alarm wise :/

so if your car was made about 40 years ago when imobolizer where never heard of and some one stole your car insurance would not cover it, even though that model car was never sold from the factory with anysort of antitheft device. Just goes to show how times are changing

I just read through a nrma booklet and does not mention anything about having to have a immobilizer

Edited by nismo32gtr
i might have to have a talk to them about mine, they've sneakily dropped the agreed value of my trailer from 6500 to 5600 :s

sorted that one out, had gone from 6000 to 5600 on their standard "depreciation". i told them otherwise that it should go back to 6k. also the value on the patrol had gone from 15k last year to 11900, thats been revised back to 13500

Fairly sure the alarm must meet Australian standards and have at least two points of immobilisation.

i thought it was 3 points of immobilisation?

i thought an immobilizer had to be fitted as part of compliance?

It is, but from my recent experience the pricks charged me for an autowatch and when i had my mate inspect he said there was definitely NOTHING installed!

I'm 23 and drive a modified R32 GTST skyline, I've had no at fault claims or accidents or loss of license, excessive speeding fines etc. Is there anyone apart from just car worth trying?

$400 is fine for third party but if I can get full comp for around $1k I would consider it.

Just punched my car into Just Cars website, as a 33-yo female driver (rating 1) with no claims, no points off my license, perfect history driving an R34 GTT Sedan - they'll do $14k value at $1,044/yr .. uhh .. LOL ... no.

What I don't get the above driver is probably only just off their P's at 19, would be considered a rating what - 4? .. Yet can manage $1500 for an R34 GTR? .. Doesn't smell right. I punched similar details onto Justcars website and they said closer to $1900, but even that seems a bit low. Eh, who knows - maybe Just Cars really will just insurance young kids for cheap. Sure wasn't like that when I was younger.

Eh, either way I'm sticking with my Shannons with $28K agreed at $1250/yr.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HyperGear. Just get a high flow of the stocker. Good, reliable, and should bolt on. Yes it will want things like a retune once done, so you need to factor this in to your spend too.
    • Hi. Iam looking for some "cheaper" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO. I do not want "big" power just better reliability than the stock turbo which is "fot now" good but is old and i do not think it has "easy" life. One the Skyline here running some "temu" china Turbo but i dont trust those... Thanks!  
    • Hi guys, Making some space/cleaning up. A whole heap of random OEM R33 GTR parts and other random bits and bobs. I will update this thread as I go. Parts are located in Moorebank NSW 2170. Pickup preferred but will post at buyers expense. Prices are negotiable. If they don’t sell it will go in the bin. Item 1: BOV return pipe. $40 Item 2: RB26 cam gears. $20 Item 3: R33 GTR torque split, oil temp, boost centre gauge. $100 Item 4: RB26 fuel rail x 2. $20 each Item 5: RB26 Recirc valves. $50 Item 6: OEM upper front arms. $20 Item 7: Royal Purple Max Gear 75w-140 1 quart/946 ml x 5. $50 each or 5 for $200. Item 8: OS Giken 80w-250 diff oil 1 litre. $25 Item 9 Eibach springs. ers-11-140-60-0140. $100 https://www.streetfx.com.au/eib140-60-0060-eibach-ers-140mm-length-x-60mm-id-coil-over-spring?_ga_campaignid=22235933977&_ga_adgroupid=180146800292&_ga_keyword=&_ga_device=m&_ga_target=pla-295238231169&_ga_locint=&_ga_locphy=9071723&_ga_matchtype=&_ga_network=g&_ga_device=m&_ga_placement=&_gcl_id=CjwKCAjwlt7GBhAvEiwAKal0cvkVE_hstv24cDiaICsIk1oznH9zAoJf3By6vR3Tpe7jmByqM6JFHBoCZYAQAvD_BwE&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22235933977&gbraid=0AAAAADPiTbo1xAuvnjIWWYnezivf-BUSY&gclid=CjwKCAjwlt7GBhAvEiwAKal0cvkVE_hstv24cDiaICsIk1oznH9zAoJf3By6vR3Tpe7jmByqM6JFHBoCZYAQAvD_BwE    
    • That's kind of what I was getting at saying you'd be here soon regarding length etc being able to add additional restriction.  My assumption (possible donkeys of you and mption) is that the length of hose to an oil cooler, and back, isn't going to be that huge of a loss. Typically you're talking about 1.5m of total length. And so far everyone in our world hasn't had issues with oil not being able to get to a cooler and back, it's more been, how the heck do we get the oil out of the head and back down to the bottom? I'd nearly hazard a guess the biggest issue people have with oil cooling and oil supply, is being able to get the heat out at the cooler itself (not enough air flow, too small of a cooler etc) Also, when people mount them wrong and make really awesome air traps so they've dramatically diminished the cooling capacity.
    • I will rebutt this and the preceding point from Dose....but without doing any calcs to demonstrate anything and without knowing that I am right or wrong. But... The flow capacity of a fluid transfer system is not limited by the smallest orifice or section of conduit in that system, unless it is drastically smaller than the rest of the system. OK, I use the word drastically perhaps with too much emphasis, but let's drill down on what I really mean. The flow capacity of the system is the result of the sum of the restrictions of the entire system. So, to make an extreme example, if you have a network with 3" pipe everywhere (and let's say a total length of only a few metres) and that 12mm ID restriction of the oil filter connection being the obvious restriction, then for any given amount of pressure available, the vast majority of all the pressure drop in the system is going to occur in the 12mm restriction. But.... increase the length of the 3" pipeline to, say 1000m, and suddenly the pipe pressure loss will likely add up to either be in the same order of magnitude, possibly even exceeding that of the 12mm restriction. Now the 12mm restriction starts to matter less. Translate this to the actual engine, actual oil cooler hose sizing, etc etc, and perhaps: The pressure loss caused by flowing through the narrow section (being the 12mm oil filter port, and perhaps any internal engine oil flow pathways associated with it) is a certain number. The pressure loss through, say, -12 hoses out to the cooler and back is negligible, but The pressure loss through -10 hoses out to the cooler, at the exact same length as the above, starts to become a decent fraction of the loss through the 12mm stuff at the filter port. Maybe even it starts to exceed it. I could actually do these calcs if I knew 1) how much oil was actually flowing in the line, 2) gave enough of a f**k to do things that I hate doing for work, voluntarily for a hypothetical discussion. Anyway - I reiterate. It's not the narrowest port that necessarily determines how much it can all flow. It is the sum. A long enough length of seemingly fat enough pipe can still cause more loss than a semmingly dominant small bore restriction.
×
×
  • Create New...