Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Suspension

LotusGTR
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 119
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

LotusGTR Veteran

LotusGTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I don't think you'll be disappointed with the DMS 50s. can't wait to see the pics. what was the ball park on cost for the DMS, install, set-up?

Small change from $4k..Pics'll be up as soon as I have 'em.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
Small change from $4k..Pics'll be up as soon as I have 'em.

money well spent I'd say. considering for what you get, good quality, 50mm DMS, install, alignment etc. that is pretty fair money for good suspension.

LotusGTR Veteran

LotusGTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well it's all done and I've driven my 30kms home and can report that the ride is excellent, and it all feels rather civilised. I hadn't realised how much the old harsh ride put me off driving it. I got the compression backed off one click from the original setting and it it kinda what I'd hoped for now. I think it's set up very soft compared to what is possible, so should be very adjustable from here. Just got to figure out how do-able that is from home. Ill post up the alignment sheet, but they maxed the front camber at 1.5 as the adjustable arms would allow no more........The rear was at 1.75 and this was the minimum due to the ride height. 340mm rear 345mm front. Looks tough as guts and rides really well. Great combo. I'm flat out at work next week and off for a month after that so not sure how much I'm going to be able to figure how the handling has been improved (if at all).

All in all it's kinda like you sent your girlfriend to Swiss Finishing School and she got a boob job on the way back. It's what you already know and love, but somehow better, more refined and it kind of re-invigorates your relationship.....

Photos, specs and more waffling drive reports coming soon.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

my only advise is swap that .5mm toe in on the front for 1mm toe out. and enjoy. ;) and if you like a 'pointy' car with razor sharp turn in may it 1.5mm toe out each side front and 0 toe rear (or leave it with the 1mm in it has now for a bit more stability).

LotusGTR Veteran

LotusGTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
my only advise is swap that .5mm toe in on the front for 1mm toe out. and enjoy. ;) and if you like a 'pointy' car with razor sharp turn in may it 1.5mm toe out each side front and 0 toe rear (or leave it with the 1mm in it has now for a bit more stability).

Given I've just got it back I'll settle in with it how it is and then perhaps change the settings later and get to feel the difference. It's good to learn as you go and I reckon if I did it now I'd miss the feel of the change. I'll come back to your suggestions in a couple of months. Thanks.

Mr. Keets Grand Master

Mr. Keets

Posted
Posted

Camber looks fine for the street, I run almost -3 but I'm not worried about tyre wear. From memory the conventional wisdom is around -3 for the track. Do you have adjustable front uppers..bushes?

I dig the way you R looks now, sleeper R....nice

LotusGTR Veteran

LotusGTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Camber looks fine for the street, I run almost -3 but I'm not worried about tyre wear. From memory the convention wisdom is around -3 for the track. Do you have adjustable front uppers..bushes?

I dig the way you R looks now, sleeper R....nice

Why thank you ;) .

I do have adjustable upper arms which makes me wonder why they cannot get more adjustment from them. I don't care about tyre wear either and before the alignment we agreed -2mm front, so we all wanted more but apparently couldn't get it. The people who supplied me them originally are different to the guys who've just done the work. Not sure I'd go back there.......I wonder where the issue lays?

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted
Why thank you :/ .

I do have adjustable upper arms which makes me wonder why they cannot get more adjustment from them. I don't care about tyre wear either and before the alignment we agreed -2mm front, so we all wanted more but apparently couldn't get it. The people who supplied me them originally are different to the guys who've just done the work. Not sure I'd go back there.......I wonder where the issue lays?

The length of the upper arms will constrain the amount of neg camber you can get. Stock length is 182mm, the Whiteline kit is approx =/- 6mm. Usually this gives two and a little bit degrees of neg camber. If you want much more (ie three to four degrees) you need to think of numbers in the 160 - 170mm range for upper arm length but it also depends markedly on your ride height, your upper mounting brackets, lower control arms & castor settings.

Also remember that the more castor you wind in the less camber you end up with. Usually I just set the castor so the wheel is centred in the arch.

Any chance of a photo of the spring/shock units themselves?

_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted
The length of the upper arms will constrain the amount of neg camber you can get. Stock length is 182mm, the Whiteline kit is approx =/- 6mm. Usually this gives two and a little bit degrees of neg camber. If you want much more (ie three to four degrees) you need to think of numbers in the 160 - 170mm range for upper arm length but it also depends markedly on your ride height, your upper mounting brackets, lower control arms & castor settings.

Also remember that the more castor you wind in the less camber you end up with. Usually I just set the castor so the wheel is centred in the arch.

Any chance of a photo of the spring/shock units themselves?

why don't you like to wind in lots of positive castor? :D

LotusGTR Veteran

LotusGTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The length of the upper arms will constrain the amount of neg camber you can get. Stock length is 182mm, the Whiteline kit is approx =/- 6mm. Usually this gives two and a little bit degrees of neg camber. If you want much more (ie three to four degrees) you need to think of numbers in the 160 - 170mm range for upper arm length but it also depends markedly on your ride height, your upper mounting brackets, lower control arms & castor settings.

Also remember that the more castor you wind in the less camber you end up with. Usually I just set the castor so the wheel is centred in the arch.

Any chance of a photo of the spring/shock units themselves?

Yeah, good point, they've taken the shots, and I've asked a couple of times now, and they say they're going to send them. When I get them I'll post them up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • sonicii
      Could it really happen......

      By sonicii · Posted

      I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • MBS206
      Could it really happen......

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • MBS206
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...