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Thanks John! :)

I'm running HKS 246 in and 272 out step 2 cams from memory and the head is ported.

Autotech do all my tuning and servicing and Greg from Pro Engines did the engine build and head work.

I'm looking forward to seeing the results of the GT-RS's and I'd be expecting a minimum of 400awkw. I've spoken to Jim from Croydon and owners of some other big name Skylines who have given me a good idea of what to expect.

well if u have been @ autotech lately & noticed a black r32gtr, that is my car.

greg also built my engine, i had jim @ crd tune my car - you are definitely talking to the right people ;)

sorry about my last post...i thought your name was katrina lol

here is the link to my results: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pr...la-t277399.html

my 405awkw is on pump fuel, 23psi, although my boost would drop off to 20psi due to weak actuators in higher gears. with my new actuators should hold boost better & give a higher peak kw :)

Nah I didn't run it that day. I have other dyno sheets from dyno days but that was all before the rebuild. I don't have to prove anything to anyone so I don't care if people doubt it :)

LOL that is my name, I often get Kat for short but answer to both.

Cheers for the link I shall have a read! I haven't been out to Autotech yet this year, if my turbos are in I'll most likely be in there next week for a chat.

Hope to see your beast around some time!

Can I please get a bit of clarification about which turbo people are talking about when they refer to the "-9" that is the 'same' as the HKS GT-SS?

Is it the GT2859R - 707160-9 or the GT2860R - 739548-9?

I note the GT2859R has the same part number as the other -5 and -7 GT2860's (GT2860R - 707160-5/GT2860R - 707160-7) and am a bit confused...

Cheers

Yes hks gt-ss are same as Garrett gt2859r - 707160-9

r34 N1 = Garrett gt2860r - 707160-7

Don't believe there's too much differnce between these turbos

As I'm currently running -7s on stock motor and quite happy with them.

Good response but will have to upgrade to -5s or -10s when chasing for more power

Can I please get a bit of clarification about which turbo people are talking about when they refer to the "-9" that is the 'same' as the HKS GT-SS?

Is it the GT2859R - 707160-9 or the GT2860R - 739548-9?

I note the GT2859R has the same part number as the other -5 and -7 GT2860's (GT2860R - 707160-5/GT2860R - 707160-7) and am a bit confused...

Cheers

Check this out

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tu...ty-t283705.html

  • 2 weeks later...
well if u have been @ autotech lately & noticed a black r32gtr, that is my car.

greg also built my engine, i had jim @ crd tune my car - you are definitely talking to the right people :)

sorry about my last post...i thought your name was katrina lol

here is the link to my results: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pr...la-t277399.html

my 405awkw is on pump fuel, 23psi, although my boost would drop off to 20psi due to weak actuators in higher gears. with my new actuators should hold boost better & give a higher peak kw :)

It's all in the head.. Markos, Kat's and Pete's that was referred to earlier are all running stock valves as well. Bigger turbos would be a waste if the head isn't working properly. A change back to a stock port head from what's on these with everything else the same costs 40kw atw. We've done the dyno tests to prove it. Sometimes the right airspeed and port shape is more important that peak cfm.

Ok just spotted this thread and thought I would give some info for people interested. Now I'm not really the type of person to go all out on modifying my car and spending every last cent I earn on my car but I do like to enjoy my car all the same as I drive it every day as a daily driver. I've had my car since september last year and as soon as I bought it my main priority was to make the car reliable as a daily driver. After reading a few different things on this forumn it was clear that the one thing that I needed to change were the original turbo's due to the horror stories of them exploding. Luckily for me 2 weeks after buying the car another member on here was selling a pair of HKS GTSS's so I promptly bought them. I also new that to get the car to run properly I would have to do something about the tune of the engine so opted for a Nistune. Again this option was chosen purely because it did everything I needed it to do without any un-necessary frills.

I took the car to have the nistune fitted and set up. Nothing else on the car has been changed other than the normal exhaust and filter by previous owner. Internals, injectors, fuel pump etc all standard.

The car made 376 Hp at 1.2 bar and was restricted by running out of fuel. Tuner said could of made it to 400 Hp if the fuel pump wasn't lazy.

Now I know this is probably no where near the power alot of other guys out there are making but I thought I would post it up so that anyone who is trying to make a decision on what turbo's to go for can at least see what can be expected on an other wise standard car with these turbo's.

Obviously with alot of other work with the heads/cams etc more would be possible.

I've attached a copy of my dyno sheet also.

Sorry for the long post but hopefully this will help.

Paul.

scan0036.pdf

1 of my most enjoyable setups was in my previous gtr, all i had was a plasmaman intercooler, custom 3" inch exhaust with tuned length front pipes (looked ridiculous but it worked), air filter & pfc...that made 242awkw.

it was fun because i could launch it, squeeze it hard etc & it was well balanced - the power was nice & not violent/intimidating :cool:

dont ask why i now have a 700hp setup, boredom i guess

  • 2 weeks later...

I wouldnt say no good and pointless i think the reality is if you have to go and buy new turbos for a fraction more you can get a better flowing turbo that compliments the engines capacity to breath resulting in better performance, no real lag difference to complain about, and room to move for others that want to do a few more mods down the track and have turbos that dont run out of puff to early and put a grin on your face every time you slam your foot down and listen to that RB26 revving all the way to 7200rpm still pulling hard.

After reading some of the threads regarding Dash 5s, 7s and 9s, its like people drive around in one gear only? (dyno charts) when you think a street GTR travels the first 60 foot in around 1.7 seconds off the mark in 1st gear, you are already well over 4500 rpm, then there's 2nd, 3rd, 4th and so on never dropping below 4500 rpm, surely its good by dick from then on! Go the 5s!!!

That's a fair point, by 5k RPM my car is making nearly 300awkw with the -5s, holding it all the way to redline, which is low power for them with plenty of scope for more.

It's well into positive pressure territory at only 2k RPM in higher gears, while the lower gears are geared low enough for it not to matter anyway.

My car is an extremely simple set up. No cam gears. Just R34 N1 manifolds (from tangomatt), R33 dumps and a full HKS silent exhaust.

That's my feelings... Personal choice I guess. Perhaps the -9s would have been plenty for me for now, but I made my choice and need to justify it in the name of morality. :thumbsup: Plans are an engine rebuild later on, after my car is resprayed so there is scope there without needing a new pair, or I could just rebuild my HKS 2530s.

Since when are people doing massive street RPM launches on daily driven cars? :)

The difference you feel is the response time of the turbos inbetween gears and so on.

You drive a car with -5s in reasonable traffic, then use a -9's... the -9's is much nicer and easier to drive, always will be.

On a circuit, change a gear, the smaller turbos will always be back on thier game sooner than larger ones.

I can scoot around in 5th @ 60km/h, just a touch of the throttle and boost is there should i want to see some acceleration.

I do not need to go digging for a lower gear like you would with the -5s or "wait" for them to spool to build momentum (which wont happen until 80km/h or so).

So it simply comes back to what you want power wise.

Anything less than 350rwkw is -9's. 370rwkw+ is -5's. Why have more lag/poor transient response than you need to for your given power target?

The car making 330rwkw @ 20psi (-9) is going to be much faster than a car making 330rwkw @ 15psi (-5).

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