Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register

Rb25det 280-300rwkw Is There Any Need For Copper Head Gasket


Recommended Posts

right guys i have most my stuff now here is a list

hks 3037 pro s

hks hi mount

power fc with boost control

tomie timing gears

660cc injector

billet fuel rail

greddy copy intake

Q45 throttle body

braded turbo lines

greddy intercooler

tail 38mm wastegate

nismo timing belt

z32 afm

fuel reg

anyway im think i should do copper head gasket before fitting all up so its done as im going for 280-300 rwkw on stock motor as im unsure if stock head gasket will hold up to it as boost will be up around 20psi

Edited by mattsr31
Link to comment
Share on other sites

How long is a piece of string.

All depends on tune, health of engine ect ect.

People have run up to 300rwkw with no problem. If you want to get serious about more power then budget for a rebuild incase the sh1t hits the fan.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it's copper the don't seal water that well, great for compression but crap for water, what most people use is steel multi layer head gaskets copper are real old school. standard gaskets in rb30's have been used to 450rwkw+, most people only change from stock because they have the engine apart and why skimp out on a head gasket

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so there is no need to worry about it till i need the head off is that what ur saying mate

3 studs in the exhaust side broke when taking manifold off as long as i can get a drill in there i wont need to remove head

what studs are best for replacement of old stock ones

Link to comment
Share on other sites

many people run standard i mean nissan head gaskets with no problem with massive boost and swear by them, I run a cometic steel head gasket and would recommend using one but don't wory about it until it's apart or till the gassket blows (highly unlikely unless there is a problem) I would use stock studs but arp might make something?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wasnt and arnt after 280kw (250kw eventually will be nice) but i still went along in my project (3.5yrs of ownership/modding) for some recent head work

bought tomei cams & springs last june ($ to $ was good back then) and metal head gasget (Cometic brand). also ARP head bolts, and ported head work etc

ready for a GT3076 or a turbo such as yours all in good time, but got a highflow Slide turbo atm.

without catconverter was dyno'd at 226kw with mail-order ecu chip tune & safc/sitc.

IF you are going to pull the head down as part of your project then yeah budget it in, metal headgasket and some touchup of the ports etc.

depends on your mindset I guess........

Link to comment
Share on other sites

your stock motor wont last long at 280 -300kw regardless of your tune start saving for rebuild

Obviouisly your wealth of experience speaking here, many people have run over 330rwkw for extended periods. Its all in the components being used, and the quality of the fuel/tune.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the famous "why is there a stud that stops me putting the rear wheel on the front?" question. There is no functional difference except for the tyre size. Nissan put a little stud onto the rear wheel so you couldn't put the fatty on the front, is all. Stud is easily removed, problem goes away.
    • Trust me mate, you've got way more important things in your life to spend your time thinking about.  Both rims are 18x8 with 30 offset. Put some tyres on and forget about it. 
    • No scam Murray"...........so why are the wheel rims stamped rear or front? the owner's manual refers to different tyre sizes front to rear but doesn't explain anything about rim differences.
    • Cars all over the world are frequently having the wheels rotated front to back to even out tyre wear. I'm thinking a front rim and rear rim is something like a right handed and left handed screwdriver.  You didn't have to measure your rims, they are both 18 inches rims, 8 inches wide with a 30 offset. What were you measuring when you were trying to find discrepancies between the rims? Looks like the only thing you need to sort out is a matching set of rubber for them.  But if this was just a troll post, good job mate you got me. 
    • Been doing some part collecting  first we have the oil pump blank because of the external pump the engine will now have  new set of cam gears from prp, my old ones were fine but I like the locking system prp have come up with on their versions  new timing belt, tensioner, idler, washer and crank gear  brand new rear main seal housing just because  and all new seals from nitto (they came in the full gasket kit)
  • Create New...